Lifter issue?

[PbFut]

I no longer use flat tappet lifters. Today's oil is not formulated for these older style lifters. If you are using an older SBC, and not spinning the engine more than 5500 or so the retro roller lifters work just fine. They are a little heavy for very high rpm. I had a cam fail last year. Lots of junk in the system. It was old motor so I took a chance and ran diesel fuel through the oil system by using a primer tool. Then very thin oil. Then my normal weight changing filter each time. Driven about 5k since the change without issue. I would not recommend for a newly built engine or one with high end crank, but for older driver, you are not risking much to attemp a wash out.

[Already Gone]

A friend rebuilt a small block 400 for me, 817 virgin block that got a .30 bore, and besides the crankshaft and bare block all other parts were new. He recommended I use Lucas Hot Rod oil in the truck which has Zinc in it. Spun the cam with a drill to get oil up to the rockers and then the 2000 RPM break in for 20 mins or 1/2 hour. Got it installed and running last summer and have driven the truck 1000 miles no issues.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12371044

https://www.lunatipower.com/voodoo-h...k-256-262.html

[1970cstblazer]

Zinc or lack thereof in most oils is the easy scapegoat, but in reality it is mostly crap metallurgy and machining. The metallurgy is so bad that even roller lifters are failing!

[67 twins]

Originally Posted by 1970cstblazer

Zinc or lack thereof in most oils is the easy scapegoat, but in reality it is mostly crap metallurgy and machining. The metallurgy is so bad that even roller lifters are failing!

This! This right here. I've easily put 100k collective miles on the trucks in my signature. I use modern oils. Nothing fancy, no hot rod oil, no high zinc no oil additve. Also no oil related failures.

[PbFut]

Agree on crap metel we have today. Just compare a 1970s tool in your box to today's stuff. I think there is a way better chance of success using a roller cam and lifter over the flat design. For a few more dollars and a hour or so setting up the button, I have a much more confidence the cam will run in correctly.

[custom10nut]

Originally Posted by elorenzof

thanks guys for your help. we did a compression test for fun, all cylinders were at 150psi. we pulled the intake and the lifter bottom of lifter is wiped out and so is the lobe on the camshaft. See pic attached. All other lifters are perfect on all cylinders. what could of caused this? The engine builder states he used moroso lifters. He says we didnt break in the engine properly so there is no warranty. I'll tell you my procedure to break in the engine, what is yours? I use Maxima high performance break in engine oil that contains zinc, start the engine, let it get to operating temp, raise the rpm to 2k and let it run monitoring all aspects coolant, temp, keep an eye out for leaks, anything wrong like sputtering, etc for 20 mins, take rpm back down to idle, shut off engine, let engine cool, drain oil and change filter using oil w zinc for the 2nd oil change as well. Am i doing this incorrect?

Yep. The exhaust side is ROACHED