55.2-59 No spark

[leegreen]

does it run if you take a jumper wire from battery to distributor as was suggested ?

You have a stomp starter so the starter solenoid wires in harness are probably unused

I think I'd take the switch out and test it's function with a MM or test light. If it only has off and on, how many terminals does it have? 55-59 have more than 2. Where does your ACC connect?

[popeyestruck]

there are 5 terminals bat ,sol,acc,ign and ground and its a 2 position switch. The acc goes to a 6 position plug for fuel pump ,power seats,power locks,cruise,power windows and CB . They are just a source for 12 volt power. ive tested the ignition switch and only the Batt and AC get power. I tested the old switch that worked when removed and its the same way. I guess I'm missing something. I've rebuilt old harley switches that are 3 position where the 3rd run position is just an internal jumper bar but this is a 2position. I havent jumped the distributor direct from the battery yet. Not really ready to check that if I dont at least have power to the distributor

[leegreen]

do the colors you mention correspond to 1950s wiring ?

https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.co...ring/index.htm

this is '55 truck from link above

pink here appears to be for accessories and dk green from ign1 to coil, violet from ign 2 to starter (does that energize the foot starter or something?)

this section is interesting,


this resistor, if you trace it back appears to take power from ACC through the resistor and to the coil and back to IGN. Maybe ign1, 2 is not switched inside the switch it is just a pair of connectors??

Post # 10 here by mr48chev hints at some knowledge here? and he posted the same diagram.

[popeyestruck]

OK . I put everything back together and I now have an energized pink wire. I dont know what I did. Might have been grounded or pinched wire or maybe it is a bad switch. I'm going to put the battery on the charger and try it in the morning. Dont want to rwsh low voltage going to the HEI

[popeyestruck]

IT RUNS!!!! Started right up . 235 is so quiet you can hardly hear it run. Got a little leak on the power steering line should just need tightening. I'll post a video if I can. Thanks to everyone

[dsraven]

Perfect. Good to hear. A video would be great.

[mr48chev]

Cool Beans. Now we can look forward to that first drive video.

[popeyestruck]

Had my motor running and it blew a line for the canister oil filter. Looks like its just old and worn out. I bought new lines but I'm having trouble getting them to seat so one line drips. Its a compression fitting similar to a brake line. Is there something I'm missing when getting them to seal up other than just keep tightening?

[dsraven]

snap a pic of what you have in a disassembled manner. sometimes there is a part missing.
compression fittings can be finnicky if overtightened as the inner part (ferule) starts to crush the part it bears down on and then it never seals properly. if it is a soft like, like the teflon tubing, there is a small tube that goes inside the soft line so it doesn't just keep crushing down the tube as the fitting is tightened. a few pics would help us see exactly what you have. I have also seen the compression fittings used on aluminum tubing, like the stock vortec 350 sbc oil cooler lines or the stock GM auto trans cooler lines, crush the aluminum tubing as the owner overtightened the fiting to try to stop a leak.

[dsraven]

I have used the grease gun whip hoses for the stock 235 style oil filter cannister. available at hydraulic hose suppliers, napa etc

[dsraven]

oh, sorry, you said compression fitting like a brake line. I assume you are talking about the flare style fitting if it is like a brake line. check the sealing surfaces on the fittings to ensure there is no groove or deformity and also the sealing surface on the flare of the tubing. sometimes just replacing the fitting with a new one stops the leak due to an out of round or deformed fitting. I replaced some of those fittings with pipe thread fittings and used grease hose with a connection on one end that allows the fitting to swivel. tighten one end into the engine block and use the swivel on the cannister end. just a thought.

[popeyestruck]

I used these. It sounds like that is what I have . You tighten to the canister then tighten the swivel that pulls the swivel apart which seats the fitting. Not really a good system in my opinion. I got the top one to seal but the bottom has a drip. I'll just keep playing with it till it seats. Apart from that I have great oil pressure.

[dsraven]

maybe a piece of crud in the fitting? I have loosened that style of fitting under pressure and allowed a small amount of fluid to escape, which self cleans the fitting sealing surfaces, then tightened to normal spec. if it still leaks i would try tightening a little more but not too much or the fitting simply deforms. if it still leaks maybe a new hose and fittings are in order.

[vintovka]

Hose quality??

[popeyestruck]

Yeah that what I'm doing tighten and reseat like you do with brake fittings in the morning. Hose quality is from jim carter so I'd guess good

[vintovka]

I now suspect all parts as manufacturers are so limited and workers don't seem to care. Its strange to have to review the return policy on everything first.

[mr48chev]

You may have missmatched fittings that go together but don't work together. Especially on a 75 year old truck that someone in the past may have used a different combo of fittings.

What is the brand and part number on the hose?

[popeyestruck]

I think I may have overtightened the fittings. You snug them until they stop leaking but if you go past that you deform them. I think I may have done that. I'll see if Ace hardware or parts store has them today. If not I'll figure out the correct size and order them. EDIT I got them to stop leaking but I'm going to replace the fittings with new ones for peace of mind. They dont leak but only from really overtightening them. I'll start with some new ones and make sure the seat right like you do on brake lines. Snug -back off -snug