69 Olive Stepper LS Swap

[blkcorvair]

So over a dozen years ago I restored my 69 Stepside. Every screw and bolt restored and put back where it belonged. I was only the second Owner at the time. I originally kept it with its 250 i6, and 3spd on the tree. I soon after installed a 2004r, Power Steering and Power Brakes. But shortly after that I mistakenly sold it. Fast foward nearly a dozen years and that buyer reached out and in turn sold it back to me. I have been driving it everywhere I can since and loving every minute of it. But its time for another upgrade. I have been in the last weeks sourcing parts for my LS Swap. This will likely take about a year to complete. Ill get working on the new Drivetrain while still enjoying the truck until its all ready to swing over.

So Far Ive gotten
2013 Vortec 5.3 from Tahoe with 53k Miles
2008 4L80e from Chevy Express
2010 Camaro Factory Manifolds and Cats with 10k miles
1972 5 Lug Rear Axles and Front Brakes

I Plan to do a Vintage style Swap with Single Plane Manifold, EFI and a small cam. Im Planning on running the Cats and have my eyes on the Black Heart Header back Exhaust 2.5" currently

Ill be lowering the truck a few inches, Disc Brakes, Larger Wheels, Etc..

Ive gotten alot of idea reading through threads here and over as LS1tech

[blkcorvair]

Here's the Future Power Plant. Although its currently torn down for DOD and VVT delete. Ive been waiting for my cam for 2 weeks that appears lost in the mail so I can start puting this back together.

[MySons68C20]

Nice truck! It'll be fun to watch your progress. I think a year is a realistic timeline.

[Rich84]

Sign me up..nice project you have

[LS short box]

Looks like a great project. So much easier when start with a good truck to begin with.
I've done a number of LS swaps over the years.
Couple things that have worked well for me.
I buy the engine harness and computer from known supplier with great tech support. Not Ebay. Many folks have used the Holley EFI stuff for the vintage look. I think their computer can provide trans control.
I would be really tempted to rewire the chassis harness with new if you have not done that already. If its original its 55years old.
I went with aftermarket tube upper and lower a-arms. They let you dial in more positive caster.
LS swaps love good grounds. Battery to the engine block. Engine block to the frame.
I use generic LS swap radiators. Puts the inlet and outlet on the passenger side for easier radiator routing.
Man I like spending other peoples money. LOL.
Again good luck with project.

[blkcorvair]

Thank you. What’s everyone’s favorite engine mounts for this? Was originally thinking dirty dingo sliders and possibly adjusting to keep current driveshaft. But now I’m leaning towards the hooker tape as I rad the engine sits about an inch lower. Thoughts are to keep the driveline angles better. Plan do do a lot of long highway driving when done so don’t want to create any driveline imbalance

[WorldsCrappiestTruck]

Originally Posted by blkcorvair

Thank you. What’s everyone’s favorite engine mounts for this? Was originally thinking dirty dingo sliders and possibly adjusting to keep current driveshaft. But now I’m leaning towards the hooker tape as I rad the engine sits about an inch lower. Thoughts are to keep the driveline angles better. Plan do do a lot of long highway driving when done so don’t want to create any driveline imbalance

Good info from LS Short Box above. Learn from those who have done it.

Mounts - I think any slider is fairly equivalent - the slide certainly helps with trying to keep the stock driveshaft. As for driveline angle….your rear mount will be where it is. If you raise or lower the engine 4-feet away from that pivot point by an inch….its really not going to effect the driveline angle. Make up for that with pinion angle shims on the rear end.

I used tubular mounts (maybe from CPP, or POL) as shown a couple posts down and they worked fine. I think I had to enlarge a hole or two in the crossmember but I liked how I could easily run power cables, transmission cooler lines, wiring harness etc underneath them and there were no sharp edges

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=695411

[LS short box]

Just few other things.
I like to hide as many wires as I can. ECM, engine fuse/relays block inside the cab. I use -6 SS line from the trans to the trans cooler. Then a good size stacked plate trans cooler typically B&M. Same with fuel lines -6 and a C5 FFR.
Auto Meter gauges in a modded stock bezel. Lokar shifter.

[Rich84]

I used the DD sliders which enabled me to slide the engine forward enough so the lower A/C compressor mount would fit. Not a big deal to get a driveshaft.

[bigmoe]

A high hump tunnel is a must to keep the trans up higher for better drive angle.
I'd also recommend a trans crossmember with the humps in it for exhaust routing.

[cj847]

Sounds like a great project. Not sure if you are asking for advice or not.

The Camero exhausts will work well and fit inside the frame rails. While I understand the appeal of a vintage look aftermarket FI setup, for the money saved I would run the factory stuff and the factory computer.

On the fuel lines: if you can afford it get/make metal lines. If you use rubber only get gates barricade fuel injection ethanol safe hose. It's like $9/ft at the parts store but you can get a better deal on amazon. I bought a fuel line kit from a "reputable" supplier. It was great looking stuff and relatively expensive. But after 5 years one day I was under my hood and it was dry cracked all over. I am a little surprised there haven't been a lot of stories about blown fuel lines and burned up cars as many LS swaps as you see with 10-15' of hose running the length of the vehicle. 58 psi inside deteriorated rubber near hot engine and exhaust is not a good scenario. You obviously have to use several inches at vibration joints.

[bigmoe]

If you use hose for fuel lines get PTFE lined braided type with -AN fittings. I used flexible line for trans cooling lines as well. WAY easier to route.

[LS short box]

Couple more things.
As you use the -6 fittings going into the intake make sure you use the adapter that has screw on locking nut.
Kind of a toss up but fuel pump wise in-tank or external? My early LS swaps I used Bosch 044 external pumps C5 FFR combo. Zero issues. But today I would only use an in-tank pump with the C5 FFR. I like the Walbro 255 in-tank since my builds are pretty mild.

[blkcorvair]

Thanks for all the advice. Very welcome! Most of my fuel lines/trans lines will be hard lines where I can. Never minded bending and fitting them. Otherwise steel braided. I Will do in tank fuel pump. Waiting for my second camshaft so I can start putting the engine back together. First cam has been lost by usps for 3 weeks. Still gotta fight to get my money back on that one. New cam on its way, but slowed down too now with all the snow in the middle southern part of the country. That one hopefully arrives tomorrow via fed ex. Using a cam motion titan 2 truck cam. Nothing crazy but just a little something since I’m deleting dod and vvt. I’ll try to hide computers and as much wiring as I can in the cab. Love a clean engine bay.

[WorldsCrappiestTruck]

As you start plumbing, let me recommend Notchead clamps for brake and fuel lines. They’re a little spendy when you size up what you need for front / rear brake lines and fuel lines, but their product is REALLY nice.

https://www.notchead.com/store/p39/N...ne_Clamps.html

Brake lines snap in nicely after you drill & tap the frame / crossmember where you want a clamp bolted in.

I purchased a full tank kit for a ‘69 f-body (PN: CM69CFIT-K) to mount rearward and fill behind the flip-up license plate. Fairly pleased with it but my next setup will be a Boyd’s and fill behind the taillight. That said, it came with soft line which made routing a breeze, and the Notchead clamps held it well. Only one pic I took unfortunately.

https://www.ecklers.com/1969-camaro-...-847049-1.html

Folks tend to crap on the single-line system with integral fuel filter / pressure regulator claiming they aren’t reliable. I figure there are millions of Corvettes out there with this setup doing just fine…..and a replacement is dirt cheap plus it’s 1 less line to run to the engine with no return.