Help I took the fuel pump out and can’t get the push rod To move

[IT Cowboy]

I have fuel squirting out the wee poles on my fuel pump. I took the old one off and now the shaft seems to be stuck at the bottom and I can’t get it to move. I’ve tried bumping the engine with no luck. There’s a square bolt directly below where the pump goes. Can I take that out and is that a direct access hole or are there any ideas how to grab that pushrod also does the push ride set on top of the pump rod or below the rod on the pump?

EDIT:

Ok, sorta disregard as I figured it out. I was looking for a push lobe inside the block and it is a push rod. I removed the square head bolt under the pump and the push rod fell out. The SOB issue I am facing is getting in there to put the pump in and get the rod on top of the pump plunger and then pushing it all in enough to bolt on. It is a ***** becuse I have AC and the compressor makes it all tight and hard to reach from top or bottom. I think I am going to have to have a buddy over to bolt it on while I hold it. Unless there is a truck to holding the plunger down while installing it

This is a minor thing and ppl replace these all the time but I remember changing the pump on my Ford in HS and it taking ten minutes. This is also tempting reason to go to the Sniper system and block off the mechanical pump. Oh and the hard fuel line connection doesn't line up with the pump inlet.

Thank you for the replies and help.

[HO455]

Do search for fuel pump push rod in the box above (Remember to click the 67-72 button) you will find lots of answers (like the ones below) from folks that aren't available at this moment.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=657748

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=788719

https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...d.php?t=605117

[Rust_never_sleeps]

I haven't done this yet, but it comes up often, some suggestions here:

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=843581

Video of the hacksaw trick
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6UGEpgOUqg

[IT Cowboy]

Sorry, I’m in the driveway right now and on my phone it’s hard to search. Do I even have a push rod in the block or is it just a cam in the block on mine? Mine is a 402 and I don’t have the hole in the front For the longer bolt to go into what I’m confused about is is there a rod in the block, and does it go above or below the lever on the fuel pump

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by IT Cowboy

Sorry, I’m in the driveway right now and on my phone it’s hard to search. Do I even have a push rod in the block or is it just a cam in the block on mine? Mine is a 402 and I don’t have the hole in the front For the longer bolt to go into what I’m confused about is is there a rod in the block, and does it go above or below the lever on the fuel pump

Above.

[Getter-Done]

If you have a strong magnet that will fit in the hole,
Try to use it to twist and push the rod upward.

[SCOTI]

Masking tape on some pliers/vice grips might help twist/turn the rod w/o damage. It can get gunked-up in the port (beyond the travel distance for the fuel pumps lever) so sometimes you have to make sure it moves high enough so the pump lever is under the fuel pump rod.

The height of the fuel pump rod is dictated by a lobe on the camshaft. If the rod is extended to much, rotating the internals will help once the lobe rotates around w/the crank.

If the rod wants to slide out, a small dab of bearing grease is usually enough to hold it farther up inside the block.

[IT Cowboy]

Ok, sorta disregard as I figured it out. I was looking for a push lobe inside the block and it is a push rod. I removed the square head bolt under the pump and the push rod fell out. The SOB issue I am facing is getting in there to put the pump in and get the rod on top of the pump plunger and then pushing it all in enough to bolt on. It is a ***** becuse I have AC and the compressor makes it all tight and hard to reach from top or bottom. I think I am going to have to have a buddy over to bolt it on while I hold it. Unless there is a truck to holding the plunger down while installing it

This is a minor thing and ppl replace these all the time but I remember changing the pump on my Ford in HS and it taking ten minutes. This is also tempting reason to go to the Sniper system and block off the mechanical pump.

Thank you for the replies and help.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by IT Cowboy

Ok, sorta disregard as I figured it out. I was looking for a push lobe inside the block and it is a push rod. I removed the square head bolt under the pump and the push rod fell out. The SOB issue I am facing is getting in there to put the pump in and get the rod on top of the pump plunger and then pushing it all in enough to bolt on. It is a ***** becuse I have AC and the compressor makes it all tight and hard to reach from top or bottom. I think I am going to have to have a buddy over to bolt it on while I hold it. Unless there is a truck to holding the plunger down while installing it

This is a minor thing and ppl replace these all the time but I remember changing the pump on my Ford in HS and it taking ten minutes. This is also tempting reason to go to the Sniper system and block off the mechanical pump.

Thank you for the replies and help.

Zero offense intended but if you can't get past a swap on a vintage sbc's mechanical fuel pump, swapping over & sorting through Sniper issues won't be easier.

Longer studs (not bolts) to slide the fuel pump onto can help guiding it into place while aligning the pump lever & the rod inside the block. Thumb tighten a nut on one side & you can then swap to the correct hardware/bolts or stick w/the studs.

[IT Cowboy]

Can I cut the metal fuel line going into the pump and put a rubber fuel line patch and two clamps in there. The issue is the flanged hard line doesn't line up with the new pump inlet and it is a few degrees off. It looks like someone has bent and reworked it in the past. I dont think there is enough slack there to gently bend the metal line without crimping or breaking it.

[IT Cowboy]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Zero offense intended but if you can't get past a swap on a vintage sbc's mechanical fuel pump, swapping over & sorting through Sniper issues won't be easier.

Longer studs (not bolts) to slide the fuel pump onto can help guiding it into place while aligning the pump lever & the rod inside the block. Thumb tighten a nut on one side & you can then swap to the correct hardware/bolts or stick w/the studs.

Some things just go easier than others and I should know better than to start new projects before dark and when I am already dead tired but point taken.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by IT Cowboy

Can I cut the metal fuel line going into the pump and put a rubber fuel line patch and two clamps in there. The issue is the flanged hard line doesn't line up with the new pump inlet and it is a few degrees off. It looks like someone has bent and reworked it in the past. I dont think there is enough slack there to gently bend the metal line without crimping or breaking it.

If the In/Out fittings are located @ different clocked positions, the options are:
*Tweaking the metal line to work as needed
*Re-clocking the upper/lower pump sections(possible depending on pump body type/manufacturer)
*Splicing in rubber line

[IT Cowboy]

Ok, I have it all put back together and working again.

I had to slightly bend my fuel line just a bit. Once I had the pump on it was only out of line by 1/2 inch or so.

I went to the hardware store and picked up the GM 3/8-16 studs in 1.5 in. They were expensive at $6 ea. but it made things much easier and I was able to hang the pump on them until I could get it bolted down and a much easier assembly process. a dab of ultra black and I stuck the gasket over the studs.

I used a long socket ext. and put the nuts and lock washesr on it with a dab of grease and it held it until I could fish it way back in there onto the stud and get it tightened. I left the studs on and it all tightened down ok and it isn't high pressure in there.

I ended up using a dab of grease to hold the push rod up and out of they way of the pump plunger. I wish I had found that tip earlier.

I ran it for 5 minutes to check for leaks and it died and would not restart. It really helps to not run out of gas lol.

The oil doesnt smell like fuel so I think the weep / fail homes worked and I caught it in time

[SCOTI]

Sounds like you got it sorted....

[RenoKeene]

Good job Cowboy!

[IT Cowboy]

Originally Posted by RenoKeene

Good job Cowboy!

Yeaaaah, I completed a simple task that most ppl on here could probably do it 10 minutes LOL. My old Ford in HS didn't have AC and was easier to reach or at least that is how I choose to remember it. No leaks and it runs so I will call it a win.