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Old 03-04-2025, 02:15 PM   #9
Chaparralman1974
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Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Peoria, Arizona
Posts: 684
Re: Drum Brake Pressure Switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardJ View Post
The brass piston shown has square shoulders and makes contact with the steel pin. The switch at the bottom of the photo would be mated to a piston that has tapered shoulders. The taper pushed the nipple on that switch, back into the body of the self contained switch.
I've not seen the one Loudchevy has pictured. It appears to be just a slight variation of the one I have shown with the long thin steel pin. The protrusion with the slot appears to be electrically insulated.

If yours needs cleaned internally, it isn't that difficult to disassemble. If you are careful, the sheet metal screw will do little damage to the brass inserts and can be reused. There is nothing in there, but two springs and the piston.
In this picture, there is a residual pressure valve below the seat, but you won't have that. They're showing seat removal for a MC, which may or may not have a residual valve.
Push the piston out with drift pin and clean with solvent and flush with brake fluid.
Hey Richard, thanks for the information....I didn't realize that there was a plunger inside. I didn't event realize that you could pull out the little brass inserts. I went ahead and did that, and the inside of mine is a complete mess....it is rusted solid. I think that I am just going to order a new block from inline tube.

The one from inline tube specifies that it is for 1/2 ton trucks. I can't see there being a difference, but I could be wrong. Do you know if the distribution blocks differ between 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton trucks? They look identical.


Clay
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Clayton Sikes
Peoria, Arizona
1967 Chevy K20 "The Town Truck"
Build Thread: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=841272
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