Bucketlist Blazer -Restomod build 6.6liter L8T

[NDM]

Tank filler and two vents are welded in. I used leftover 1.5 inch stainless exhaust tubing from my Honda chopper exhaust build for the filler. The vents are just stainless 3/8 90 degree barbs that I got off Amazon. I pressure tested and welded up any holes before I added these three so I know that the tank will be leak free once I add a viton seal to the sending unit and fuel pump module. It appears that the stinking teflon does not seal well. The viton sheet should solve that. I still have to fab up either tank straps or tabs to hang the tank. I am leaning toward tank straps like factory. I have three pieces of 1/8 in thick stainless bars that are 1.5 in wide x 48 in long. I can bend them up and drill a couple holes and be done.

The only thing left to weld is the 5/8 in filler neck vent. Hallelujah!

Some of my welds are not too bad. Others are not great but oh well.

[Richard]

Enjoy seeing the progress. Keep at it!

[NDM]

Originally Posted by Richard

Enjoy seeing the progress. Keep at it!

Thanks. I am hoping to have the tank installed and plumbed this weekend. By next week I should be able to drive it.

[NDM]

Super happy! I bought a cheap ( not really) press brake from harbor freight just so I could make 1/8 in 304 stainless tank straps. I just need to drill the holes and I can hang the tank. My sheet metal brake was not up to the task and kept making radiused bends on my test piece. Glad I tested it before ruining my 48 inch long straps.

I am seriously debating adding a -8AN drain port to the tank. I would attach a long -8AN tube to it to allow me a drain line directly into a gas can or bucket. I have the stainless bungs and it would only take s couple minutes to weld up. The tube would be secured high up above the tank. I could just add the port and use a cap. That would work too.

[jaros44sr]

Being able to drain the tank is always a good idea just MHO

[NDM]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Being able to drain the tank is always a good idea just MHO

Yeah. I am just tryinhg to decide where I want to put it. Front, side, rear, centered,etc. The -AN 8 port will allow any debris that could get stuck in the tank to be flushed out too.

[NDM]

Last minute addition. I added the -8AN fitting to the front passenger side of the tank to allow easy draining when needed. There will be either a cap installed or a fitting with tube ran high up. The tube will allow me to drain fuel right into a gas can whenever I want to. It will normally just sit unused. I really debated this but decided that having the ability to drain the tank easily is better than not having the ability. This way I can get 99.99% of the fuel out when I need to. The aluminum surrounding the bung is drawing heat out of the hot welded metal.

An additional benefit is that if I wanted to or needed to, the return line could be plumbed here since it is at the very bottom and would be submerged. That would allow me to run a third fuel pump if I ever wanted to run a gazillion pounds of boost! Lol!







I posted a quick video to youtube for folks that are looking for an answer of what to replace their broken or lost factory u-bolt for the tank straps. Posting it here in case someone finds their way to my build. This is also a place for me to document my journey. I still look back at my old builds to find answers to things that I built a long time ago.

http://https://youtu.be/EkmTsehdTZA?si=8c6rPq0VkqEU833T

[jaros44sr]

Nice work now is the time to check for leaks

[NDM]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Nice work now is the time to check for leaks

I pressure checked the tank multiple times. I found a few and welded them up.

The tank has moved up from the basement. I used neoprene rubber adhesive strips from amazon to line my custom tank straps and the area that will butt up to the frame. I cut the 2 inch strips down to 1 inch to fit the 1.5 inch straps. This also turned my 2 in x 10 ft of rubber into 20 ft x 1 in. Costs $17.98 for the roll.

I debated adding sound deadener to the tank but decided that it would be worth it to avoid noise from the tank when empty. I had the deadener so better to get it done now than find out that I need it later and have to remove the tank. I did a good job of prepping and rolling the deadener in areas that will be covered by the frame or floor. I used heat to get it as flat as possible. The deadener did cover some of my pretty welds too :ROFLMAO::LOL: so that is a plus!! They were air pressure tested so I know that it should not leak.

I have to whip up the AN lines, add the ground wires, secure the wiring and then I can raise the tank into its new home. I will have to mount the regulator and connect the lines. Basically I should be plumbed by the end of the weekend.













Decided on routing the fuel down the drivers side because the passenger rail has alot of stuff on it due to the transfer case. Drivers side only has the wiring for the rear lights and the fuel gauge.






The tank is in and sits within the truck departure angle. Does not look too bad either. I did have to remake my bolts for the straps. The other ones were an inch too short. I used all stainless this time though to avoid having to waste time painting them. It took me 4 min to make.



I do need to dent my filler tube a tad as it contacts the floor. Talk about a game of millimeters! I may be able to move it back a tad.








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[NDM]

I caught the plague! Woke up with fever, headache, chills and a terrible sore throat. I slept almost half the day away but got myself out of bed to attend my son's basketball playoffs. I stayed away from people. We got beat by 2 points in the bracket before the final game.

All that said, I was able to motivate myself to embrace the suck and mount the fuel pressure filter/regulator and install the AN fittings. Other than hooking up the vents and filler neck, plumbing is complete. Next step is wiring the pumps and relays. Hopefully I wake up feeling up to the task.

Changed my mind on the location. I ran down the passenger side and there is a big loop in all the hoses on top of the tank to allow me to lower the tank without disconnecting the lines. Hopefully I won't have to chase any leaks. That would suck.

[NDM]

No photos today but I got the fuel pumps 90% wired. The main pump is 98% done and the 2nd pump is 82% complete. I tested the main and the secondary. I should not need the 2nd pump if I run pump gas vs E85.

I am honestly getting tired of working on this thing. Between work, life and family time, I am really tired. The burden of the Blazer on my brain is distracting me every day and I am losing steam. I have no choice but to finish so I must keep going. I look forward to not working on it for a while. For a hyperactive old kid like myself that is saying something too! I do not usually run out of energy. Maybe my perpetual power supply is finally starting to give out. 47 years of endless energy. Not a bad run.

If I were to add fuel to the tank, it should run. I have to add power steering fluid, coolant, re-install the trans pan and add trans fluid, hook up the new and old starter wires and finish the tank vent lines.

I also need to add oil to the transfer case, install the drive shafts, change front and rear axle gear oil and new gaskets. Install the grill and bumper and a serious leak check for everything.

It is like days work if I was not so distracted by work stuff.

[Richard]

Congratulations on the work moving forward. Looks like you have a path forward. Hope you get past the bug. You have more stamina than me. When I am working a lot I find it difficult to move forward at a steady rate. Thankfully for me it has been slow at the body shop and I have made a lot of progress in the last few weeks.

[NDM]

These two videos have been sooooo motivating along the way. White C10 with the same motor as I have. I am not sure if he is cammed and stuff like me but the results should be similar but with the ability to do 4wd takeoff! I have watched these on repeat probably 100 times each!

It does not help that I dream of living in the southwest!

This is the website link to that c10. Looks pretty factory install to me. That means that even though I will have 8 inch more tire height, I should also have over a hundo more power to make those babies spin.
https://totalcostinvolved.com/testim...holas-vincent/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gaew0Ia0JRI

https://youtu.be/X_aZ5tX3d38

[jaros44sr]

Looks like you have some leaf spring bushing repair in your future maybe spray some penetrating fluid on it now….

Nice work on the tank straps. How’d the clamps turn out?

[NDM]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Looks like you have some leaf spring bushing repair in your future maybe spray some penetrating fluid on it now….

Phase 2 includes 4 links with Johnny joints. I will lube them for now though. Thanks.

[NDM]

Needed to run-

-fuel

-power steering fluid

-tranny fluid

-coolant



Needed to drive-

-fill diff

-fill transfer case

-install driveshafts.

-install cowl with antenna

-install grillwith lights

-install bumper with lights

-Secure the air filter/make a box for it



Non essential stuff to do-

-Run exhaust past axle and out the back

-wiring cleanup inside the cab.

-add a 6l90E dipstick

-belly pan beneath the fuel tank



I will 100% be hearing this thing run again within the next 24 hours. I need to let the Ecu and motor talk to each other for a while to learn each other. I will cycle everything and look for leaks.



I plan to drive this thing by the end of the week!

[NDM]

Filled the power steering reservoir., Trans fluid, coolant, and added 2 gallons of fuel. I had my son standing by with a fire extinguisher and when I went to start it, I realized that the main vehicle fuse had popped. Likely due to all the work. I did some tests to make sure that there is no shorts anywhere and did a prime with the secondary fuel pump straight to the battery. I will not be able to start it until I grab a couple of the fuses tomorrow morning. I could jump it across the terminals but I would rather have another fuse pop to warn me of any potential problems. The good news is that there is no leaks so far other than my goof up where I put too much tranny fluid in. I forgot that I need to start it, let it warm up and work the fluid through the cooler lines. OOps!! I cleaned the bloody mess up and popped the plug in to avoid any more leakage.



If all goes well tomorrow, I should be able to run it and let it start learning. It is too bad about that fuse. I was looking forward to hearing the roar again.



Needed to drive-

-fill diff

-fill transfer case

-install driveshafts.

-install cowl with antenna

-install grill with lights

-install bumper with lights

-Secure the air filter/make a box for it



Non essential stuff to do-

-Run exhaust past axle and out the back

-wiring cleanup inside the cab.

-add a 6l90E dipstick

-belly pan beneath the fuel tank

[NDM]

I bought a new starter since my buddy at the store cut me a deal. It helped alot but there is still something wrong. I do not seem to be getting spark. I think it is a crank issue but will troubleshoot with holley possibly tomorrow. I am so bummed out that I have not been able to start it. I had it running on the engine stand so it has to be something small and silly. I have fuel pressure. I upgraded my starter wires to 0 guage since the tiny 6 ga was warm during crank. The engine grounds are 0 ga. The battery and alternator is 0 ga. Wtf??? I loaded the tune into the ecu again.



Oh well. Maybe tomorrow then.

[NDM]

We have liftoff! I have a noise to investigate which I think is a power steering noise but I will remove the belt to isolate whether it is a motor noise or pully noise.

If all goes well, I will record the video and upload.

a few moments later-------
YEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!
No motor noise other than louder dual springs. The rumble is SICK! Feels like a big block rumble. I can breathe a little now.

[NDM]

Good news/bad news
Good news- Found my noise and it is not the power steering or the alternator.

Bad- apparently the water pump was damaged in the donor's accident or possibly there is something inside the pump because it is the source of the noise. They are not too expensive but I have to basically tear the whole front of the motor off to replace it.
This was the donor so I cannot be too mad about it. I should be able to have one quickly but I have to strip all the hoses off and hopefully not drop all of my expensive coolant. Should not take more than a couple hours with the coolant drain.

[NDM]

Water pump will be here tomorrow. I can still start it but just not for too long. Here is a short video as proof.
https://youtube.com/shorts/xfJ3r2TsB...vX2Yc_jjzBD8GZ