power window regulators on the cheap

[70STOVEBOLT]

I welded it in line.

[Peanut74]

Ok thanks. That is what I thought when I laid it out but wanted to be sure. I already need to cut one apart as I welded the armature gear upside down.

[Peanut74]

Well I got my set finally done. Used this thread for the key dimensions and my design. I tried to simplify the design as much as possible. Below is the link to my thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829693

Thanks to those above that helped out on this upgrade.

[R.O.B.]

Sorry if this was said and I missed it, but what stops the window at the top and bottom? Or do you just control the switch?

[70STOVEBOLT]

Originally Posted by R.O.B.

Sorry if this was said and I missed it, but what stops the window at the top and bottom? Or do you just control the switch?

The window track inside the door.

[starman13]

this guy has some good info on wiring windows
https://youtu.be/Avo_35OUCPM?si=lT4_IjGa9DIRTM1r

[starman13]

I am offering These plates if anyone wants for $10.00 +shipping.
There are two types. And I don't do the small holes for adjustability.PM me with what
type.

[Joyridin]

Sorry to have to bring this up again, but when you mounted the motors and did all the mods, did you reinstall the spring? Mine is 1/2 a rotation further around than when the regulators were original, which would put one heck of a load on the window. Di you leave the springs off or can they be left off?

I can probably cut and modify the spring to fit, but if I can avoid that, all the better.

[70STOVEBOLT]

I left the spring on.

[Algoma56]

Watched a YouTube video recently by FoothillPaintFabrication, and he put the spring back on. Felt it worked better with it. On a 1965 Malibu, but same theory of adapting power motor.

[Joyridin]

Thanks. I will try to use it.

[woog74]

Great thread, thx to all who contributed the info. Anyone have a recommendation for the rubber duct that is typically used for the wire harness that runs from the door to the body?

I do see some choice online, but if someone had a specific one they liked I would be more inclined to use that one.

[Joyridin]

Originally Posted by woog74

Great thread, thx to all who contributed the info. Anyone have a recommendation for the rubber duct that is typically used for the wire harness that runs from the door to the body?

I do see some choice online, but if someone had a specific one they liked I would be more inclined to use that one.

It may be listed earlier in this thread, but I used these from Nu Relic. They were perfect. There isn't a ton of room between the door and the cab and these lay pretty flat. I ran decent sized wire with no issues.

https://www.nu-relics.com/S-Boots-p/9835.htm

[woog74]

Originally Posted by Joyridin

It may be listed earlier in this thread, but I used these from Nu Relic. They were perfect. There isn't a ton of room between the door and the cab and these lay pretty flat. I ran decent sized wire with no issues.

https://www.nu-relics.com/S-Boots-p/9835.htm

Thx for the reply. Can I ask what made you opt for the offset boots as opposed to the straight on ones?

[Joyridin]

Originally Posted by woog74

Thx for the reply. Can I ask what made you opt for the offset boots as opposed to the straight on ones?

There is not a lot of room between the door and the cab. I was afraid of putting a kink in the wires if it were run straight.

You can probably do either though. Just make sure you have enough room for the boot to collapse when you close the door.

[woog74]

Originally Posted by Joyridin

There is not a lot of room between the door and the cab. I was afraid of putting a kink in the wires if it were run straight.

You can probably do either though. Just make sure you have enough room for the boot to collapse when you close the door.

Appreciate it.

Most expensive part of this project is the window switch harness pigtails LOL. They cost more then the motors, and more then the switches.