Not Another Rebuild Thread....

[CRGRS 66]

No need to apologize, nice to be able to see what you have been doing. We all learn, and get our inspiration from each other. Looking forward to seeing how your dash extension turns out!

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by CRGRS 66

Looking forward to seeing how your dash extension turns out!

Yeah ... Me Too !!

Off to the bone yard to see if I can get the early 70s front cross member with the disc brakes and 5.7 manual and mechanical transmission.
See you guys later this weekend here, and good luck on your builds.

[k1rodeoboater]

I can't wait to see that console done. I was thinking about doing the exact same thing you did with the cab corners, though I'll probably just screw mine in so they're removable. I'd like to be able to spray some used motor oil down in there to help keep the rust from coming back.

I wished I had just kept my 73 cross member together rather than breaking it apart and scrapping/selling off everything but the spindles. It would have been way easier to do what you're planning on doing.

[joe231]

Upper and lower balljoints (2 of each)
Upper and lower control arm bushings (4 of each)
Inner and outer tie rod ends (2 of each)
Pitman arm and idler arm (1 of each)
Rotors, inner and outer bearings and races (2 of each and you will need to know if you have 1 inch thick or 1.25 inch thick rotors)
Calipers (1 left and 1 right)
Brake pads and hardware
Front brake hoses (left and right)
Sway bar bushings (4 of each and you will need to know the bar diameter)
Coil springs (2 of each)

I think that's all you need

Also, you probably know this already...
You don't have to swap the crossmember.
You can use everything on your current crossmember.
Posted via Mobile Device

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by joe231

Upper and lower balljoints (2 of each)
Upper and lower control arm bushings (4 of each)
Inner and outer tie rod ends (2 of each)
Pitman arm and idler arm (1 of each)
Rotors, inner and outer bearings and races (2 of each and you will need to know if you have 1 inch thick or 1.25 inch thick rotors)
Calipers (1 left and 1 right)
Brake pads and hardware
Front brake hoses (left and right)
Sway bar bushings (4 of each and you will need to know the bar diameter)
Coil springs (2 of each)

I think that's all you need

Also, you probably know this already...
You don't have to swap the crossmember.
You can use everything on your current crossmember.
Posted via Mobile Device

If I just use the original cross member do I just swap out the spindles for the disc brakes set up?
I would have to check to see if my 6 lug rotors would fit too, or else order the ones you linked me a few days ago.

When you come up, I should video you looking at my set up so I dont miss anything. I suck at taking notes.... LOL

Originally Posted by k1rodeoboater

I can't wait to see that console done. I was thinking about doing the exact same thing you did with the cab corners, though I'll probably just screw mine in so they're removable. I'd like to be able to spray some used motor oil down in there to help keep the rust from coming back.

I wished I had just kept my 73 cross member together rather than breaking it apart and scrapping/selling off everything but the spindles. It would have been way easier to do what you're planning on doing.

K1 I have those cab corners scanned to digits if you want me to shoot it to you in email. You can print it off and go from there. Would be easy to add a tab for mounting screws.

I just could not get too motivated today to work on the truck, I really only putzed around on it for 4 hours.
I did look at my hydroboost, and am trying to figure how to make the plunger longer. It is about 3" too short to reach the resting position of my brake pedal.

I painted some stuff.

I thought about making a bracket for my porportioning valve to mount to.

I answered what seemed like a bazillion texts from people that did not know I was trying to be busy....

Then I decided to dink around with the dash extension. It started with blocking the 3 parts together and drilling a guide hole for the center piece to bolt to the other two.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by McMurphy

If I just use the original cross member do I just swap out the spindles for the disc brakes set up?
I would have to check to see if my 6 lug rotors would fit too, or else order the ones you linked me a few days ago.

When you come up, I should video you looking at my set up so I dont miss anything. I suck at taking notes.... LOL

Lol!

You would use everything except the crossmember.
From the arms out and all the newer steering stuff.
You will need the aftermarket 6 lug rotors or convert to 5 lug.
To convert the rear, you can redrill your rear axles, buy 5 lug axles to fit your diff, or swap in a newer diff...
I can understand wanting to keep it 6 lug though.
Posted via Mobile Device

[McMurphy]

Then after the primer dried, I decided it was time to clamp it into place and start the molding it fit the cab. So far I am very pleased with the product. I left it all bolted together and as you can see it binds a bit on the center piece. This will go away as I form the long vertical edges to the cab wall and weld it in.
I also welded in that patch corner where it meets the floor.




Just for giggles, I decided to work in a matching body line from the dash. You can barely see it in this photo.





I am almost impressed with myself at how straight that bottom edge turned out, especially when mounted up like this in the truck.



Sometimes a photo will show you errors or mis-alignments more clearly than my eye will. So here I am checking to ensure that the concept of extending the area of the orginal dash that is the width between the two panels would "look right".... Next I should shoot a photo thru the back glass from above and farther away.


Well not much of a progress weekend for photos, just a ton of behind the curtain stuff like cleaning and painting of parts to go on later. Kind of a good idea to do it like this because when I start reassembly I will probably be too impatient to clean and paint stuff....
LOL

Hope you all had a good weekend, sadly back to work tomorrow!!

[McMurphy]

Another weekend of doing behind the scenes unglamorous stuff....
worked a template for the console sides, and another for my dome light. More to follow on those.

I cut the push rod/plunger for my hydroboost at approximately center then with a 7/16 -14 die I threaded both ends.


Then I got a 1 3/4" extension nut some lock washers and end nuts. If this turns out to be not long enough, I got a 2 1/2" long bolt and another extension nut. I will cut the head off the bolt and use it as a center join between the two extension nuts.


I also whipped out this mounting bracket for my porportiong valve, though I may fab up another that will include something to hold the power steering hoses as well.


Other than that, I got the feet made and got the anchoring hardware for my seat, so I think next weekend I will work on mounting my seat up. and finishing my cab floor.
I am itching to get something completed and have been trying to focus on the inside of the cab, but frankly I am at an impasse until I get my transmission.
I want to be 100% certain that the console idea I have isnt going to interfere with shifting before I commit to welding it all up in place.

[Modges'66]

Originally Posted by McMurphy

Another weekend of doing behind the scenes unglamorous stuff....
worked a template for the console sides, and another for my dome light. More to follow on those.

I cut the push rod/plunger for my hydroboost at approximately center then with a 7/16 -14 die I threaded both ends.
Attachment 937317

Then I got a 1 3/4" extension nut some lock washers and end nuts. If this turns out to be not long enough, I got a 2 1/2" long bolt and another extension nut. I will cut the head off the bolt and use it as a center join between the two extension nuts.
Attachment 937318

I also whipped out this mounting bracket for my porportiong valve, though I may fab up another that will include something to hold the power steering hoses as well.
Attachment 937319

Other than that, I got the feet made and got the anchoring hardware for my seat, so I think next weekend I will work on mounting my seat up. and finishing my cab floor.
I am itching to get something completed and have been trying to focus on the inside of the cab, but frankly I am at an impasse until I get my transmission.
I want to be 100% certain that the console idea I have isnt going to interfere with shifting before I commit to welding it all up in place.

Even though I have a nice chrome booster & master cylinder, I was thinking about goin with hydro-boost....It will work better once I add the twin turbo's...JK!

[chad64chevy]

twin turbo's would be awesome! i like tom nelson racing engines! heres a link: http://www.nelsonracingengines.com/engines/chevy.html, if you look at you tube videos they are bad a$$$!! i would love to have a 355 or 406 twin turbo daily driver!!

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by Modges'66

Even though I have a nice chrome booster & master cylinder, I was thinking about goin with hydro-boost....It will work better once I add the twin turbo's...JK!

If I could afford twin turbos, I could have a proper garage to work in!

Originally Posted by flips72

hydroboost looks good, great job on the brake adjusting rod as well
twin turbo, now theres a idea

Heck of an idea...

Originally Posted by chad64chevy

twin turbo's would be awesome! i like tom nelson racing engines! heres a link: http://www.nelsonracingengines.com/engines/chevy.html, if you look at you tube videos they are bad a$$$!! i would love to have a 355 or 406 twin turbo daily driver!!

I would like to afford to drive something like that daily LOL.

So a little of the behind the curtains stuff I been doing lately..
With the hydroboost and the front crossmember I got a couple weeks ago, I also snagged this collapsible steering column. I cut my original just below the bearing retainer and drilled a hole for the retainer bolt. I punched out the plastic that held the two parts together, and mounted it up. When I get to mounting my powersteering gear box back up, I will slide the steering column down to marry them up, mark the new holes, and probably use roll pins to secure it, however physics would not allow them to slide apart, so I am not sure if it would really be needed....



This is the two halves reunited.


In my original Tempest Custom I had mounted one of these Eldorado dome lights with the map reading spot lights. I really liked it then, so when I happened to spot a wrecked caddy at the bone yard I pulled this one too. (the paper is covering where the lens will go, I just have to order a new one)


As I was fiddling with aiming the map lights so they would approximately land in the laps of the cabin occupants, I thought, "hey, how cool would it be to make a mount that will take my 1" spot tweeters too?"


It isnt quite finished yet, but I suppose you get the general idea....

[McMurphy]

I probably should have posted this one first to keep in some sort of sequence, but oh well.
This is how the plunger/push rod for the brakes ended up.
The original set up was about 1/2" too short, so I had to cut that bolt head off, and use it as an allthread to marry up the two extension nuts. Even after that, it still took a little bit of tinker-toying to get it right, but as you can see it is in and seems good. The extension nut closest to the booster is all the way down the lenth I threaded, so hopefully the nut and lock washer on the pedal end will keep that whole mess from vibrating loose. I promise I do not want to have to adjust my brakes from under there !!



The sun finally came out for a bit, long enough for me to park the engine in some of it and warm it up nice. I been itching to put this thing back together, but it needed to be painted. So after letting it sunbathe for an hour or so, I started the final tear down on it (at least as far as I am going...sadly I am not a mechanic like some of you. Today my juristiction ends at the intake manifold!)


After I got the intake off I spotted this port all gunked up like this. Is this something I should be worried about? It did not look healthy to me.


I got the VHT aluminum color for my block. I think with the black and grey motif of the rest of the truck it will look good. I have some metallic garnet red I have done some of the detail work in for accents.


Last photo of the day before I cleaned up shop and turned the lights and radio off.


As always thanks for looking guys!!

[McMurphy]

Well I am about to start reassembly on the motor.
These are the 3 types of gasket goo I have so far.

The blue for water pump and radiator return outlet.
The gold for exhaust manifold (when I get one)
The black for oil pan, valve covers, timing chain cover, and intake manifold.

I have all the gaskets for those listed items, (except the exhaust, still have to get that one)

Is this what you guys use?
Am I missing anything?

[Chad215]

woo hoo! that sure is pretty

[CRGRS 66]

looks great! that is one of my fall projects, will give me a chance to fix a few leaks in the process too

[flips72]

sweet

[MOTOIMPAIRED]

The port that you are talking about is an EGR port, they always get like that so no worries. Most people will block those off depending on the intake you run.

Motor looks good and the sealer you bought will work fine the way you have it listed. I use Ultimate grey on everything and it works fantastic. I use copper coat spray on the exhaust gaskets.

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by Chad215

woo hoo! that sure is pretty

thanks Chad, just trying to keep up with you man !!

Originally Posted by CRGRS 66

looks great! that is one of my fall projects, will give me a chance to fix a few leaks in the process too

Let me know if you need some help... of course you have to bring it up here.

Originally Posted by flips72

sweet

thanks Flips, I am not on the same level as you are, but since this is a learning experience for me, I guess I should teach myself as much as I can on it!

Originally Posted by MOTOIMPAIRED

The port that you are talking about is an EGR port, they always get like that so no worries. Most people will block those off depending on the intake you run.

Motor looks good and the sealer you bought will work fine the way you have it listed. I use Ultimate grey on everything and it works fantastic. I use copper coat spray on the exhaust gaskets.

Thanks for the input Moto. I really appreciate it. I dont know what an EGR port is, or what it does though. I have the low profile Edelbrock Performer intake going on there with the 1406 Carb on top.

Anyone know torque specs on this stuff?
Specifically for the intake manifold?
I imagine the torque will be the same for the valve covers, oil pan, timing chain cover, water pump, and radiator return outlet.... Or no?

I kept holding off on buying an inch-pounds torque wrench because they are just so bloody expensive and you use them so rarely. (but when you do it is important !)
Funny, I can still tell you the torques for the Vulcan ADA Cannon, and I have not rebuilt one of those in 20 years....

[CRGRS 66]

I installed an edelbrock performer on mine, and don't recall the tourque specs, but they are in the literature with the intake, and the bolt tightening sequence is in there as well. I used a 3/8 drive tourque wrench, a universal swivel, and a short 6 point socket on the 4 center bolts. Otherwise you have to use a box end wrench, and guess, which is kind of dumb as that is where you start. I also bought a set of stainless steel bolts which had a smaller hex than standard.

[McMurphy]

Ok awesome thanks!
Frankly I have not opened the box for the manifold yet. Happy but suprised to think there would be instructions.
I guess I thought of it like a hammer... dont come with a How-To

Thanks for the photos and tips too, looks like the exact same intake there.

[fryer1979]

Hey bud, just dropping by to say hello and check in on ya after a few months away from the net. Looks like you are cruising right along, you really are making me feel lazy now....lol. Seriously though, looks like she is coming along great!

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by CRGRS 66

I installed an edelbrock performer on mine, and don't recall the tourque specs, but they are in the literature with the intake, and the bolt tightening sequence is in there as well. I used a 3/8 drive tourque wrench, a universal swivel, and a short 6 point socket on the 4 center bolts. Otherwise you have to use a box end wrench, and guess, which is kind of dumb as that is where you start. I also bought a set of stainless steel bolts which had a smaller hex than standard.

Those hex head ss bolt/plugs where did you get those?
5/8 and 1/2 right?
Also where do you have the hot water outlet for your heater?

[CRGRS 66]

Originally Posted by McMurphy

Those hex head ss bolt/plugs where did you get those?
5/8 and 1/2 right?
Also where do you have the hot water outlet for your heater?

I sell hydraulics, pneumatics, and many other industrial piping supplies. I actually pulled them from the parts bin at my shop. Any stainless steel pipe valve and fitting supplier should have these. You can also check with your local plumbing wholesaler, they are often into industrial piping as well. The manifold literature tells you what threads are in each port. There are 3/8" and 1/2" NPT pipe ports in mine (no such thing as 5/8" NPT). Brass ones would look good too.

I plugged my heater inlet outlets until I can fix my heating system, couldn't turn the heat off!

[chad64chevy]

mcmurphy, next time your on ebay look up " NPT plug fitting " theres a few different seller on there but they have what you need!

[McMurphy]

Thanks for the input guys!!
I sure do like the look of those chrome ones too...