New engine, won't run!

[billnorman]

Well...I agree with Pyrotechnic. That's how we always did it with engines that may have been assembled a little different than factory specifications. However, first and foremost you must have compression. After you verify you have adequate compression, then do the finger in the hole trick to validate that you are on #1 COMPRESSION STROKE. Also, validate that the timing mark is coming to alignment with the TDC indicator. If it's not, the damper is defective, installed wrong or the wrong one. If necessary, make a TDC locator out of an old spark plug with the porcelean removed and a rod welded through the middle. Remove the plugs and rotate the engine through by hand with a torque braker bar and socket on the crankshaft bolt to validate the TDC mark. Once TDC is validated, get on the compression stroke and wire the distributor cap so that the next plug wire the rotor gets to is #1, followed by 8,4,3 etc. Be SURE you don't have a distributor cap that has the internal jumpers so that all the plug wires come out on the same side of the engine that they go to. This will screw you all up. If it still won't run, leave the plugs in and hook a timing light to the #1 cylinder wire. While cranking, see where the spark flashes the light on the vibration damper. If it's right, and you have compression and fuel, it must run.

[Damien]

Sorry guys. I thought about what was posted last night while I was at work. If the timing set is off 180* then the dist will be off 180* And as someone said it won't matter. The dist just needs to be turned 180*. I don't know what the hell I was thinking.

Billnorman may be on to something here. The balancer could have the wrong markings, and if that is the case you might want to make sure it has the correct balance for the engine. I believe the 396 is internal and the 454 is external.

The spark plugs probably are not the problem. Even if they did get wet from the wd40, I would think they would be dry after a day of sitting. How are you testing spark? You should use a spark tester. Arcing off a screw driver can give too small of a gap. So there may be enough spark to jump a small gap, but not enough to jump the gap on the spark plug in the cylinder. Do you have a full 12 volts to the coil? Could it be the ignition module?

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by Damien

Do you have a full 12 volts to the coil?

That one has bit a few people.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by brothers69c-10

Everything you all have said about the distributor i have tried. I cput the distributor right on and 180 off, moved it a tooth either way from those positions and nothing. I check tdc just like you all have posted. But now on to something new.....

I've been thinking about the dry cylinder deal with puting oil in the cylinders. I had forgot that when i was checking the starter out i sprayed a ton of wd 40 down the spark plug holes. I would almost bet since wd 40 does evaporate quickly especially with the plugs in the motor, that when gas hits the plugs its more or less flooding the engine. So i am thinking that if i pour some regular motor oil down the holes and crank that thing over alot and clean the cylinders out, that it may run. What do you guys think?

Worth a try. WD40 is pretty thin and displaces other fluids plus it dissipates pretty quickly. The cylinders could be dry by now.

I would change your oil too as all that gas and WD40 has run into the oil pan and contaminated your oil by now. No sense taking the chance on hurting a fresh engine over $15 worth of oil and filter.

Make sure you have a fully charged battery too. HEI's don't like to fire when the voltage is low.

[69BBsuburban]

Uhh...are you absolutely positive you're getting fuel?
Will it start and run when a dab of fuel is poured down carb?
I've seen guys chase problems only to find out that either the fuel pump isn't pumping, clogged filter, vaccum leak or the carb has a stuck float.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 69BBsuburban

Uhh...are you absolutely positive you're getting fuel?
Will it start and run when a dab of fuel is poured down carb?
I've seen guys chase problems only to find out that either the fuel pump isn't pumping, clogged filter, vaccum leak or the carb has a stuck float.

Or there is air in the fuel line and the pump isn't getting any fuel to the carb.

[Rob73-87]

hmm, - if the timing`s correct - and the distributor positioned corecctly, too. Fuel is there, - THEN I think it should be a defective spark module in the dizzy.

I have had exactly the same prob - I couldn`t imagine that I might have problems with the distributor because I actually HAD SPARK on the plug....

After I replaced the module it ran.......

[dan76]

Status report requested.....

[69BBsuburban]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Or there is air in the fuel line and the pump isn't getting any fuel to the carb.

Especially if it's a dual tank truck....if the fuel valve has a small, internal leak and one tank is empty, it's basically a vacuum leak and no fuel is drawn from the tank with fuel....
I just fixed this problem on my own truck after much frustration trying to find the issue...

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by Damien

Longhair, You are wrong. The timing marks on a chevy small block V8 neet to be together when installing a timing set.

Wow Damien, that's pretty harsh....especially when I am not.

Originally Posted by 68 TT

No, he is right, it won't matter where the dots are as long as they are both up or both together in the middle. Since the crank spins twice as fast as the cam it will work either way. Now if they were off a tooth or two it could make a big difference.

[brothers69c-10]

Its got gas, I checked this by pulling he screw out of the side of the bowl. If your pour gas down the engine it quits firing all together. I tested the spark by pulling the plugs out and laying them on the frame rails and had somebody turn the engine over and watched them all spark a pretty blue spark. The balancer is new and it is right on the money for when the cylinder is on tdc. Still don't think it would be the distributor as it's only been off a running engine for about 3 weeks.

[britnjc]

octane, octane, octane

[LONGHAIR]

I find it hard to believe that "low octane" would make the motor fail to fire completely. It may not be optimal, but it should fire up just the same.
Octane rating does not relate to the energy content of the fuel. It is only a measure of the fuel's tendency to burn in a controlled manner, rather than exploding in an uncontrolled manner. So a lower octane fuel may be a lot more suscpitable to pinging, but it should start in at least idle just fine.
Higher octane actually supresses the flame to a more controlled burn.

They do start Nitro-Methane powered engines with a squirt of gasoline after-all....

[brothers69c-10]

I agree with longhair on the octane rating. The compression ratio on a tall deck at most is usually only 9:1

[thepartsguy]

Have you checked the valve adjustment? I know big block valave trains are critical

[Alex1]

Even if it was 14:1 it would fire on 89 octane.

[britnjc]

I am by no means a motor guru, but it is something to try. I am just going by one of my fellow hotrodders and good friends has a 468 big block with 427 heads buit with a blower pushing about 700 HP and he put pump gas in it and got to where it would not even fire. He started putting 110 octane in it and that beast came to life and hasnt had trouble with it since, except for the fact you cant drive it without burning the tires off it(if thats a problem). Now the motor that is being refered to here may not be built quite like the one im refering to but that was my experience.

[Alex1]

Originally Posted by britnjc

I am by no means a motor guru, but it is something to try. I am just going by one of my fellow hotrodders and good friends has a 468 big block with 427 heads buit with a blower pushing about 700 HP and he put pump gas in it and got to where it would not even fire. He started putting 110 octane in it and that beast came to life and hasnt had trouble with it since, except for the fact you cant drive it without burning the tires off it(if thats a problem). Now the motor that is being refered to here may not be built quite like the one im refering to but that was my experience.

That blower motor would only have between 7.5 to 9.5:1 so no need for fancy fuel when it's out of boost. Lower octane fuel is EASIER to light.

[Rob73-87]

Try another distributor - if you don`t have a second one - try to borrow one from a friend or so.

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by britnjc

I am by no means a motor guru, but it is something to try. I am just going by one of my fellow hotrodders and good friends has a 468 big block with 427 heads buit with a blower pushing about 700 HP and he put pump gas in it and got to where it would not even fire. He started putting 110 octane in it and that beast came to life and hasnt had trouble with it since,

There had to be something else going on there, water in the lower octane gas? ...something? Just changing to a higher grade was not the only factor there.



Back to the original poster....I am still going to bet on timing. There is either a problem with the distributor itself, or the timing is way off.

[aboveall]

i had a 427 tall deck in my dually and then put in brand new 502 the distributer i had had an ajustable coler on it you can get a new distributer with that color you ajust where you whant you distibuter to be but one you do that keep the gasket off put distributer in place tighten down the color where needed and the put gasket back in place that gives you the axsact gap you need i had to do that from my 427 tall deck to the 502 hope you understand

[aboveall]

a regular distributer will not work its to short you need longer for the tall deck moter

[MR .T]

Do you have a good engine to chassis ground?

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by Damien

The spark plugs probably are not the problem. Even if they did get wet from the wd40, I would think they would be dry after a day of sitting. How are you testing spark? You should use a spark tester. Arcing off a screw driver can give too small of a gap. So there may be enough spark to jump a small gap, but not enough to jump the gap on the spark plug in the cylinder. Do you have a full 12 volts to the coil? Could it be the ignition module?

Have you checked this? It's easy to check volts at the coil and any of the 'Zones' will check your module for free.

[brothers69c-10]

There is a thread on here that discusses distributors for tall decks. I f you use a stock tall deck intake manifold you can use a normal distributor. Mine turns just fine and engages the oil pump. The only time you need an adjustable collar distributor is if you use an aftermarket intake or an intake from a regualr big block.