Z-ing the frame - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**Captkaos** · 12-01-2003, 07:34 PM

Probably these. www.xposedvisionz.com
www.killerridez.com

I guess I missed this post, but since I started you on this mission, I figured I could help you out. There was an issue of Street Truck that has a Z'ed chassis. If it wasn't them, it was one of the main mags. It has documented pictures of the process.

SCOTI · 12-01-2003, 08:23 PM

Streetrucks had an article covering this on a 65(?) Burb. Work was done by IFCustoms I believe.

loweredd · 12-01-2003, 09:27 PM

I should check that out. I have all those at home. I will leaf through some Capt. I think I remember the 65 Burb. It had 22's on it, right SCOTI?

Thanks for the info boys, this is what I have been looking for.

Izzy · 12-01-2003, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by loweredd
I should check that out. I have all those at home. I will leaf through some Capt. I think I remember the 65 Burb. It had 22's on it, right SCOTI?

Thanks for the info boys, this is what I have been looking for.

Correct, here are the pics from IF's site.

http://www.ifcustom.com/projects/pro...20suburban.htm

I personally feel some of thier work is quite shoddy but I'm sure you know what you're doing.

loweredd · 12-01-2003, 09:59 PM

I was just going to post this picture.

I've done 3 other trucks other than this one, and never needed to Z a frame. I was a certified pipe fitter in UT when I lived out there working at the local power plant. I can weld and do whatever I need to do, just wanted to see there approach. I wouldnt have thought to do it the way they did. I would weld a fish-plate over the frame on the outside and inside AFTER welding it like they did, but that's me.

PJ_STYLES · 12-02-2003, 12:18 AM

I understand the concept of "z"'ing a frame but i was wondering and can't figure out do you have to lower the motor back down? shorter motor mounts so your drive train all lines up again?? or something? And i assume the steering colum would be all at a different angle so you need some joints? Could someone explain what has to be changed AFTER is it "z"'d thanks!

loweredd · 12-02-2003, 12:49 AM

you also cut the front and move it like the back of the fram section you are moving.

PJ_STYLES · 12-02-2003, 01:00 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by loweredd
you also cut the front and move it like the back of the fram section you are moving.

huh? sorry i don't understand. The front frame rails?

loweredd · 12-02-2003, 01:03 AM

check out the link the fiveeight posted. They have pictures of the front section z'd too.

SCOTI · 12-02-2003, 01:28 AM

PJ Styles, the front frame horns must be lowered the same amount as the 'Z' in the frame (or more if done in conjunction w/a bodydrop). The motor/trans position doesn't change in relation to the immediate framerails it's cradled in, but it does get raised in relation to the body. So you have to make sure you have adequate hood clearance, the trans tunnel has to be clearanced, as well u-joints for the steering column.

And yes @ the time the article was printed it sat on 22's. I'm hoping the article was just covering the basics & that they also went back w/some fish/boxing plates to tie it all together structurally(sp?).

loweredd · 12-02-2003, 01:32 AM

Yeah PJ, the link has ALOT of pictures. I need to U-joint the steering shaft anyway now. It's hitting the A-arm, just like that one does.

Izzy · 12-02-2003, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by SCOTI
PJ Styles, the front frame horns must be lowered the same amount as the 'Z' in the frame (or more if done in conjunction w/a bodydrop). The motor/trans position doesn't change in relation to the immediate framerails it's cradled in, but it does get raised in relation to the body. So you have to make sure you have adequate hood clearance, the trans tunnel has to be clearanced, as well u-joints for the steering column.

And yes @ the time the article was printed it sat on 22's. I'm hoping the article was just covering the basics & that they also went back w/some fish/boxing plates to tie it all together structurally(sp?).

Sad thing is they didn’t. They never clean up their work, just take a look at some of their finished work on their site.

98L150 · 12-03-2003, 04:49 PM

Here are few pic's a friend of mine sent to me of his 72 that he is in the process of z-ing the frame.

loweredd · 12-03-2003, 04:51 PM

that's a crazy paint scheme. That's not stock is it?

98L150 · 12-03-2003, 04:52 PM

pic 2

98L150 · 12-03-2003, 04:53 PM

pic 3

98L150 · 12-03-2003, 04:54 PM

last pic of inprocess I have

loweredd · 12-03-2003, 04:54 PM

Let me just say this. Thank You. That is exaclty what my first post was ALL about.

Looks awesome. What size wheel/tire combo is he going with?

98L150 · 12-03-2003, 05:10 PM

Loweredd, I belive the tire size on 72 is 255/45 0r 50 - 17. I do know they are 17x8 up front and 17x9.5 onthe rear. There is a steering column issue her will have to adress by adding some knuckles to the column to avoid the upper control are. The paint onthe truck was something the previous owner dod onthe truck befor Steven bought it. I will find out what tire size he has and advise. Ther is also a hood hingle issue he will be dealing with; most likely go with a Sasche Road sytle hingle to open the hood to clear the tires.

loweredd · 12-03-2003, 05:19 PM

He's just z-ing to get Super low?

98L150 · 12-03-2003, 06:12 PM

Yes he just z-ed the fram to ge the truck as low as possible and keep the floor stockwith exception of the enlarged transmission tunnel he will have to do.

72MARIO · 12-03-2003, 09:38 PM

Does he ahve droped spindles ? I think he would.

**N2TRUX** · 12-03-2003, 09:47 PM

Jeff, Whose truck is that?

FuelCellGuy · 12-03-2003, 10:27 PM

F*#K yea!! That's the plan for the next project.

PJ_STYLES · 12-04-2003, 01:17 AM

What is the average drop you can get by "Z" ing the frame?

12-01-2003, 07:34 PM	#26
Captkaos www.73-87chevytrucks.com Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 6,935	Probably these. www.xposedvisionz.com www.killerridez.com I guess I missed this post, but since I started you on this mission, I figured I could help you out. There was an issue of Street Truck that has a Z'ed chassis. If it wasn't them, it was one of the main mags. It has documented pictures of the process. __________________ Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com

12-01-2003, 08:23 PM	#27
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,071	Streetrucks had an article covering this on a 65(?) Burb. Work was done by IFCustoms I believe. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

12-02-2003, 12:18 AM	#31
PJ_STYLES Rockers1/2"off the ground Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 205	I understand the concept of "z"'ing a frame but i was wondering and can't figure out do you have to lower the motor back down? shorter motor mounts so your drive train all lines up again?? or something? And i assume the steering colum would be all at a different angle so you need some joints? Could someone explain what has to be changed AFTER is it "z"'d thanks! __________________ 1962 fleetside: bodydropped,shaved,bagged,custom 64 suspension,clear taillights,custom aluminum parts,rollin on 100 spoke player wire wheels. http://www.finelinedesignz.ca

12-02-2003, 01:28 AM	#35
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,071	PJ Styles, the front frame horns must be lowered the same amount as the 'Z' in the frame (or more if done in conjunction w/a bodydrop). The motor/trans position doesn't change in relation to the immediate framerails it's cradled in, but it does get raised in relation to the body. So you have to make sure you have adequate hood clearance, the trans tunnel has to be clearanced, as well u-joints for the steering column. And yes @ the time the article was printed it sat on 22's. I'm hoping the article was just covering the basics & that they also went back w/some fish/boxing plates to tie it all together structurally(sp?). __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.* Last edited by SCOTI; 12-02-2003 at 01:31 AM.

12-03-2003, 04:49 PM	#38
98L150 ///Relaxed Atmosphere Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Hockley, TX Posts: 657	72 z'd frame pics Here are few pic's a friend of mine sent to me of his 72 that he is in the process of z-ing the frame. Attached Images

12-01-2003, 09:27 PM	#28
loweredd www.loweredd.com Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Struble IA Posts: 808	I should check that out. I have all those at home. I will leaf through some Capt. I think I remember the 65 Burb. It had 22's on it, right SCOTI? Thanks for the info boys, this is what I have been looking for.

12-01-2003, 09:59 PM	#30
loweredd www.loweredd.com Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Struble IA Posts: 808	I was just going to post this picture. I've done 3 other trucks other than this one, and never needed to Z a frame. I was a certified pipe fitter in UT when I lived out there working at the local power plant. I can weld and do whatever I need to do, just wanted to see there approach. I wouldnt have thought to do it the way they did. I would weld a fish-plate over the frame on the outside and inside AFTER welding it like they did, but that's me.

12-02-2003, 12:49 AM	#32
loweredd www.loweredd.com Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Struble IA Posts: 808	you also cut the front and move it like the back of the fram section you are moving.

12-02-2003, 01:03 AM	#34
loweredd www.loweredd.com Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Struble IA Posts: 808	check out the link the fiveeight posted. They have pictures of the front section z'd too.

12-02-2003, 01:32 AM	#36
loweredd www.loweredd.com Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Struble IA Posts: 808	Yeah PJ, the link has ALOT of pictures. I need to U-joint the steering shaft anyway now. It's hitting the A-arm, just like that one does.

12-03-2003, 04:51 PM	#39
loweredd www.loweredd.com Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Struble IA Posts: 808	that's a crazy paint scheme. That's not stock is it?

12-03-2003, 04:52 PM	#40
98L150 ///Relaxed Atmosphere Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Hockley, TX Posts: 657	Here anothter pic pic 2 Attached Images

12-03-2003, 04:53 PM	#41
98L150 ///Relaxed Atmosphere Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Hockley, TX Posts: 657	One more pic pic 3 Attached Images

12-03-2003, 04:54 PM	#42
98L150 ///Relaxed Atmosphere Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Hockley, TX Posts: 657	Last pic last pic of inprocess I have Attached Images

12-03-2003, 05:10 PM	#44
98L150 ///Relaxed Atmosphere Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Hockley, TX Posts: 657	Tire size Loweredd, I belive the tire size on 72 is 255/45 0r 50 - 17. I do know they are 17x8 up front and 17x9.5 onthe rear. There is a steering column issue her will have to adress by adding some knuckles to the column to avoid the upper control are. The paint onthe truck was something the previous owner dod onthe truck befor Steven bought it. I will find out what tire size he has and advise. Ther is also a hood hingle issue he will be dealing with; most likely go with a Sasche Road sytle hingle to open the hood to clear the tires.



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12-03-2003, 05:19 PM	#45
loweredd www.loweredd.com Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Struble IA Posts: 808	He's just z-ing to get Super low?

12-03-2003, 06:12 PM	#46
98L150 ///Relaxed Atmosphere Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Hockley, TX Posts: 657	Z-ed Frame Yes he just z-ed the fram to ge the truck as low as possible and keep the floor stockwith exception of the enlarged transmission tunnel he will have to do.

12-03-2003, 09:38 PM	#47
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,051	Does he ahve droped spindles ? I think he would. __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

12-03-2003, 09:47 PM	#48
N2TRUX Happy to be here Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Cypress, TX Posts: 39,021	Jeff, Whose truck is that? __________________ Follow me on Facebook and Instagram @N2trux.com Articles- "Jake" the 84 to 74 crewcab "Elwood" the77_Remix 85 GMC Sierra "Scarlett" "Refining Sierra"

12-03-2003, 10:27 PM	#49
FuelCellGuy FUEL CELL GURU Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Mineola, Texas Posts: 993	Pardon my french but..... F*#K yea!! That's the plan for the next project.

12-04-2003, 01:17 AM	#50
PJ_STYLES Rockers1/2"off the ground Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 205	What is the average drop you can get by "Z" ing the frame? __________________ 1962 fleetside: bodydropped,shaved,bagged,custom 64 suspension,clear taillights,custom aluminum parts,rollin on 100 spoke player wire wheels. http://www.finelinedesignz.ca

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