Comp Cams

[Willshook]

Never mind

[Willshook]

Never mind

[dmjlambert]

Originally Posted by BAD1916

After my boss had a comp cam go flat in a 66 Shelby with less than 50 miles I found this while looking at cams. The new cam from Holman and moody was sent here and broken in. Way less stress on startup without the worry of the break in on the cam. Worth the money in my opinion.
https://www.camresearchcorp.com/cam-...haft-break-in/

That is interesting, good find.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

That is interesting, good find.

That break in only works if your block has the exact same lifter bore spacing and no cam walk.

[realsteelGM]

Thanks for the option.

[HalfBrit]

Originally Posted by realsteelGM

Is your motor still running with the cam set-up? I priced one here in Yukon, Canada $2100 plus springs and timing assembly.

I wish I could tell you yes. My initial engine rebuild turned into a multi year frame off project, which has yet to be finished.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

The Jeep forum I'm on has a lot of folks who had been happy users of Comp cams for years, but have had problems wiping them on break-in in recent years

[Joyridin]

Before you install the next cam, you probably want to watch this video. They actually take a flat tappet lifter on a grinder after the blue it up and you can see the problems. He shows they were Crower lifters.

At this point, I would spend the dollars and put a roller in it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbRjAMhCEJk

[realsteelGM]

Originally Posted by realsteelGM

How long ago did you install the the comp cam that cratered at break in? At this point I've got about 3 grand into the rebuild and need a good cam to put into this, what would you recommend?

Originally Posted by Willshook

I’ve used hundreds of CompCams with never an issue. Of course, any company can have a bad part, and for flat-tappet cams having the valves adjusted correctly, the right assembly lube, the right oil, and the right break-in technique is crucial.

Lobe width outside of the contact point of the lifter doesn’t do anything but increase rotating mass; it doesn’t make it more “beefy”.

Originally Posted by Joyridin

Before you install the next cam, you probably want to watch this video. They actually take a flat tappet lifter on a grinder after the blue it up and you can see the problems. He shows they were Crower lifters.

At this point, I would spend the dollars and put a roller in it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbRjAMhCEJk

What cam set-up is in your rig? How long?

[weq92f]

.

I'm in the roller camp. I didn't want to have issues so I went retro fit with all COMP. This was back in 2018/19. The lifters I purchased with the roller setup were absolute trash. I ran them until early 2020 before swapping them out with Howards. No problems since and I run it around quite a bit.

COMP 11-422-8
COMP 854-16 (replaced)$$
Howards 61161

Hth,

-Kevin

[realsteelGM]

Originally Posted by weq92f

.

I'm in the roller camp. I didn't want to have issues so I went retro fit with all COMP. This was back in 2018/19. The lifters I purchased with the roller setup were absolute trash. I ran them until early 2020 before swapping them out with Howards. No problems since and I run it around quite a bit.

COMP 11-422-8
COMP 854-16 (replaced)$$
Howards 61161

Hth,

-Kevin

The majority is telling me comp cam set-ups are not worth buying.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by weq92f

I'm in the roller camp. I didn't want to have issues so I went retro fit with all COMP. This was back in 2018/19. The lifters I purchased with the roller setup were absolute trash. I ran them until early 2020 before swapping them out with Howards. No problems since and I run it around quite a bit.

Over the years, I've used a Comp roller cam (in 2004) and a GM HT383/RamJet cam (in 2015) in SBC builds using 86-up roller cam blocks. Both installations used new GM LS6 roller lifters.

You can buy this kit or the parts individually. It's a good way to go, but not inexpensive.
Complete kit minus cam retainer plate: https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/12371056.html

On another note, you will not beat a GM cam for reliability. There are several available, from stock L31 Vortec truck engine to cams used in SP350 and SP383 crate engines.
https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/category/SB169.html

[Willshook]

wrong thread...

[twoskies]

Started with i believe with a precision power flat tappet cam, stock cam, lost oil pressure after 100 miles, tore down, went with a Howards cam Slight upgrade from stock, well that one didnt make it through break in, collapsed lifter, Howards cam,s come with warranty, called them right away with motor still cooling down, They're were Great , Customer service was very good, they warrantied the cam and set me up with a roller cam and lifters, never looked back, almost 4000 miles on build and still Great, i also have a Very Good Machine Shop where im at, the Shop covered the Difference in Price and sent the cam back both times, so i wouldnt have to wait on the refund, I agree with Most Here, if you go Flat Tappet, look for something old stock, Ebay, Facebook, but i wouldnt hesitate to go with another roller cam in any build
Good Luck with your Build

[realsteelGM]

Originally Posted by weq92f

.

I'm in the roller camp. I didn't want to have issues so I went retro fit with all COMP. This was back in 2018/19. The lifters I purchased with the roller setup were absolute trash. I ran them until early 2020 before swapping them out with Howards. No problems since and I run it around quite a bit.

COMP 11-422-8
COMP 854-16 (replaced)$$
Howards 61161

Hth,

-Kevin

Originally Posted by twoskies

Started with i believe with a precision power flat tappet cam, stock cam, lost oil pressure after 100 miles, tore down, went with a Howards cam Slight upgrade from stock, well that one didnt make it through break in, collapsed lifter, Howards cam,s come with warranty, called them right away with motor still cooling down, They're were Great , Customer service was very good, they warrantied the cam and set me up with a roller cam and lifters, never looked back, almost 4000 miles on build and still Great, i also have a Very Good Machine Shop where im at, the Shop covered the Difference in Price and sent the cam back both times, so i wouldnt have to wait on the refund, I agree with Most Here, if you go Flat Tappet, look for something old stock, Ebay, Facebook, but i wouldnt hesitate to go with another roller cam in any build
Good Luck with your Build

Thanks for the feedback, I'll look into Howards.

[MikeB]

Jones Cam Designs uses only the best of the best cores, and sells American made lifters. I can't think of anyone else I would trust. A flat tappet cam I bought from Mike Jones many years ago was a work of art compared to the mass market one-size-fits-all guys. Everything from lobe lift to event timing measured spot-on, not +/- a few thousands or a few degrees like a Comp cam I had in the shop. http://jonescams.com/

And these days even roller cams may not be the answer. Did you guys see the Roadkill Garage episode where a brand new Comp roller lifter essentially fell apart after the engine had been run for only a few minutes? Comp apologized, said it was a known problem(!), and sent them a higher quality set. Nice to know they sell some roller lifters that work and some that fall apart, huh?

[realsteelGM]

I live next door to Alaska in the Yukon, it's a real challenge to get quality machined parts here. On top of it we pay twice the price, not America's fault, our greedy government. So it's a one shot deal after replacing crank, bearings and a full rebuild.

[realsteelGM]

That's exactly what I'm looking to avoid. No second chance with an inferior cam set-up as it's the most crucial element of break in. I'll look into the "Jones" company.

[geezer#99]

You could try these for cams.

https://egge.com/


https://www.kanter.com/

[realsteelGM]

Thanks

[geezer#99]

Another highly recommended.


https://straubtechnologies.com/categ...emi-custom-bbc

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Another highly recommended.


https://straubtechnologies.com/categ...emi-custom-bbc

Forgot about him. Good advice!

Had a buddy order a custom grind from Straub. Before he even installed the cam, he decided he wanted one with less duration. Straub ground him a new one and let him return the old one for a full refund.

[realsteelGM]

Great service.

[Joyridin]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Getter-Done View Post
I have always had good luck with Crane Cams.
Quote:
Originally Posted by realsteelGM View Post
I remember crane cam decals as a young boy while making model cars. They have certainly been around. I am going to look into them, see if they have old stock cams tucked away.

I guess over the years the myth becomes bigger than the actual product. I remember building a few engines and degreeing the cams. They were literally all over the place. You had to take a pot guess half the time as 1 exhaust lobe would be way off from the next exhaust lobe, hence the reason they closed. They sounded great, but the actual performance was debatable.

I have rebuilt a few LS/LT Gen 5 engines using cams by a few modern cam companies. They are dead nuts on. The new CNC cam grinders do exactly what you program them to do.

[MikeB]

The base cam in 327 and 350 engines for many years was the GM#13896929, often known as the "929" cam. I suspect it would work just fine with a 283. In fact I think it was used in 283s in the 1960s. Specs are 195/202, .390"/.410".

There are a few NOS 929 cams for sale on the Internet. They should never create a problem due to poor machining. However, I'm not sure where you can get the best lifters.