Complete build change. Lifted 2wd

[Devil Pup]

Originally Posted by kehstr

Yes, I did it. It depends if you bought the plate to mount the speedometer, or if you build one. I built mine, and of actual work working just on the speedometer, I think I have about 12-15 hours, trying to make everything perfect (I'm a perfectionist). If you bought the bracket, it would cut down on probably about 3 hours not having to do a little bit of trial and error to make everything fit correctly, not to mention I think the plate would make for a better finished product.

Wow that sounds like a ton of work. I did buy the plate and box from Captianfab on here so hopefully that cuts down on the install time.

[kehstr]

Originally Posted by Devil Pup

Wow that sounds like a ton of work. I did buy the plate and box from Captianfab on here so hopefully that cuts down on the install time.

It definitely is! And I know for a fact that buying that plate will save on install time, at least 3 hours of my install time was making that plate, and doing little modifications so it would fit like I wanted it to.

[Devil Pup]

Originally Posted by kehstr

It definitely is! And I know for a fact that buying that plate will save on install time, at least 3 hours of my install time was making that plate, and doing little modifications so it would fit like I wanted it to.

Good to hear, thats exactly why i bought it. figured by the time i make it im loosing money and time lol. any tips would be appreciated. Did you use the HP 4060 lights that were mentioned in that thread?

[kehstr]

Originally Posted by Devil Pup

Good to hear, thats exactly why i bought it. figured by the time i make it im loosing money and time lol. any tips would be appreciated. Did you use the HP 4060 lights that were mentioned in that thread?

yes I did, and they go in with minimal modifications, just cut 2 of the 4 tabs off, and trim the other 2 and they go right on. One tip that will save you a lot of time, would be on the trip reset, instead of taking a screw to lengthen the trip reset button, just build up the "ramp" that moves the metal rods that reset the trip with some epoxy, so it moves those rods sooner.

[Devil Pup]

Originally Posted by kehstr

yes I did, and they go in with minimal modifications, just cut 2 of the 4 tabs off, and trim the other 2 and they go right on. One tip that will save you a lot of time, would be on the trip reset, instead of taking a screw to lengthen the trip reset button, just build up the "ramp" that moves the metal rods that reset the trip with some epoxy, so it moves those rods sooner.

Nice, thats what i was hoping to hear. Gonna pick up a few of those sockets so im ahead of the game. how many did you end up needing? Thanks for the tip on the trip reset. looking forward to having one of those in this truck

[kehstr]

Originally Posted by Devil Pup

Nice, thats what i was hoping to hear. Gonna pick up a few of those sockets so im ahead of the game. how many did you end up needing? Thanks for the tip on the trip reset. looking forward to having one of those in this truck

I used 8. I agree it will be nice having a trip!

[Devil Pup]

Wrapped up all the brake lines we could this weekend. Made a tubing straightener from some wheels from Lowe's. worked decent.

We Decided to run the proportioning valve on the frame rail rather than off the master cylinder. My brother had these nice little stainless clamps that make the lines look really nice and uniform.

[Devil Pup]

Pulled the front clip as a complete piece

[Devil Pup]

Set the front clip on the new frame to see how it was gonna look.
Pretty happy with the height at this point.

[c10-72 II]

I can't wait to see this done! Bad ass

[I Have No Idea]

Awesome project!!!

[Devil Pup]

Originally Posted by c10-72 II

I can't wait to see this done! Bad ass

Originally Posted by I Have No Idea

Awesome project!!!

Thanks guys!

[c10-72 II]

What's the height from the bottom of the fender to the ground?

[Devil Pup]

Originally Posted by c10-72 II

What's the height from the bottom of the fender to the ground?

I didn't measure it when i had it sitting on the frame. I will get a measurement next time we set it on.

[GR8-68]

Looking good, excellent job on the brake lines.

[Devil Pup]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

Looking good, excellent job on the brake lines.

Thank you Im happy with how they turned out!

[Devil Pup]

Well this weekend started out with a disappointment. We had our hopes set on getting the motor ready to go in. I ordered an AC-Delco transmission filter/gasket and had a corvette shift solenoid for the 4l60E thats goin. Everything was good until we pulled the pan. There was a Ton of what looked like clutch material in the pan. I knew this was a possibility considering I got the motor from the junkyard but i was optimistic. So now we either have to try our hand at rebuilding it or have it done. We've never done one before so any tips are appreciated.

This is after we wiped most the junk out. the whole pan was covered



holding up the whole project now

[Devil Pup]

Since the tranmission is now gonna need some attention we finished up the brake lines. For anyone doing this style lift you'll quickly find that routing the rubber hoses for the caliper is a bit tricky. We went to the front of the control arm which required the hose shape to be slightly modified.

The hose still has slack at full droop and is out of the way of any steering components

The hoses ran through an existing hole in the frame and meets up nicely with the brake lines we made a while ago. using a horse shoe clip to retain them.

The rear end brake line also completed and has plenty of slack. We figured out a way to use the stock 2001 silverado brake cables in the factory brackets for the 69 so that should be an easy hook up also.

The frame is basically done. if only the transmission wasn't an issue, it'd be time to really start the swap!

[kehstr]

when you wrap up the park brake cable setup, make sure you post pics. I hope to be able to do something similar with the rear end of my truck one day.

[Devil Pup]

Originally Posted by kehstr

when you wrap up the park brake cable setup, make sure you post pics. I hope to be able to do something similar with the rear end of my truck one day.

Will do. I was surprised it looks like it should lay out pretty nicely.

[RichardJ]

On your first page you had a picture of this reinforcement bracket you found on the later front end. I found the same reinforcement on the '76 C30 SRW that I took the disc brake parts from for my '67. I believe they added the reinforcement, because the brackets on the outside of the frame that the upper A-arm bolts to is a lighter weight pressed steel piece, rather than the former Forged Steel bracket, riveted to the cross member.

I used my '67 cross member with the Forged brackets and added the inside reinforcement brackets as well. I used the six cylinder coil springs, but everything else including the brake lines and forward mounted Combination Valve is from the '76.





I realize that you are well past the cross member, but the original, later Combination Valve mounting on the small cross member, under the radiator might be worth considering. It is hardly noticeable down there and there is already one usable mounting hole. Later you will need easy access to it, to hold the Metering pin in for bleeding.

Just a thought.

[Devil Pup]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

On your first page you had a picture of this reinforcement bracket you found on the later front end. I found the same reinforcement on the '76 C30 SRW that I took the disc brake parts from for my '67. I believe they added the reinforcement, because the brackets on the outside of the frame that the upper A-arm bolts to is a lighter weight pressed steel piece, rather than the former Forged Steel bracket, riveted to the cross member.

I used my '67 cross member with the Forged brackets and added the inside reinforcement brackets as well. I used the six cylinder coil springs, but everything else including the brake lines and forward mounted Combination Valve is from the '76.

I realize that you are well past the cross member, but the original, later Combination Valve mounting on the small cross member, under the radiator might be worth considering. It is hardly noticeable down there and there is already one usable mounting hole. Later you will need easy access to it, to hold the Metering pin in for bleeding.

Just a thought.

Hmm ya I had wondered why it had that bracket. So that must mean these springs are 1 ton as well would you say?

as far as mounting the prop valve down there, we had considered it but ended up mounting it just behind where the motor would sit because I want the lines to go right up as close to the firewall as possible. hopefully keep it clean. Im hoping, like the front mount that it too is easy to get to. I appreciate the suggestion though.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work on your new frame. Sorry to see about the trans. Could you find a decent used 4L60E to keep you going for now?

[Devil Pup]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice work on your new frame. Sorry to see about the trans. Could you find a decent used 4L60E to keep you going for now?

Thank you sir! For now as suggested by a few members im going to try and run it. worst case, im out fluid. . best case it works. lol. but yes if it comes down to it not working, I will look for a solid used one I think.

[Devil Pup]

Well this weekend was a ton of work. Started by getting the cab off the bagged frame. was a bit sketchy because we had to do it in the dirt but it was surprisingly sturdy.