Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Hey George.
The tapped holes the hinge bolts thread into should be in a flat plate, they're not welded nuts. The plate is held captive inside the door pillar with a spot welded cage around it to provide additional adjustment. Depending on which holes are stripped, you might be able to access them with the door open. I'd first attempt to tap them the next size up from the outside. Use a taper length (long) drill bit to open the stripped hole and an 8 point socket to thread the tap in with an extension and a ratchet. That has the thinnest profile and would give you the least chance of boogering up your paint. If the fender/door edges are too much in the way, going thru the kick panel is probably your next best option. If you do one hole at a time, you won't lose your adjustment. Good luck! Vic

Thanks Vic. I think I will try the step up bolt first. Then if that fails I will go thru the kick panel. Thanks for the information. I will do one bolt at a time. good advice.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by gdavis

Thanks Vic. I think I will try the step up bolt first. Then if that fails I will go thru the kick panel. Thanks for the information. I will do one bolt at a time. good advice.

One other thing you might try is to rethread an existing stripped hole with a M10x1.5 tap. It's just enough larger than the 3/8-24 to cut new threads. That might allow you to use a metric bolt if you don't overtighten it. You could use Loctite and just snug it up lightly. If there isn't enough thread depth and the bolt feels too loose, all you've lost is the cost of the bolt (assuming you have or can borrow the tap). You can always go up to the next SAE size if this didn't solve the problem.

[jlsanborn]

That's good thinking!

[Xeen]

I imagined the whole process completely different, for some reason I envisioned you were going to butt weld it into the hood so it is seamless, not just overlay it. There I go making more work for you haha!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Xeen

I imagined the whole process completely different, for some reason I envisioned you were going to butt weld it into the hood so it is seamless, not just overlay it. There I go making more work for you haha!

Don't believe I could manage a process like that. In fact, I plan to use 3M panel adhesive to attach the riser because the large, low crown areas would warp beyond my ability to fix if I tried to weld them. Even at that, I'll need all the structural support possible to make this work. To that end, after I get the underside cleaned up, I'll use expanding foam in all the gaps between the skin and the substructure to reduce the flex. I may also need to cut some curved wood supports to distribute the load when gluing the riser down. We'll see how it all fits up when the time comes.

[Low Elco]

I'm sure you know, but you can get a kit from Classic that has the foam for the skin to supports. Works pretty good. I actually cut up the really stiff shipping foam from the new doors and slipped that in when when I was blocking.

I was wondering if that scoop was 'glass or metal, I couldn't tell in the pics. I like the shape of it.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

I'm sure you know, but you can get a kit from Classic that has the foam for the skin to supports. Works pretty good. I actually cut up the really stiff shipping foam from the new doors and slipped that in when when I was blocking.

I was wondering if that scoop was 'glass or metal, I couldn't tell in the pics. I like the shape of it.

This particular hood has really inconsistent gaps between the skin and the supports. Not sure how much deformation you might get where the gaps are tight and whether it would be loose elsewhere. The aftermarket hood I bought for Silver had expanded foam in all the gaps. Looked like crap until I trimmed it with an Xacto knife, but was fine after that. Seemed to hold pretty good. Not sure if it was some kind of industrial product, but hopefully, the foam you get from the hardware store will suffice. May have to do a test panel before committing.

The scoop panel is metal but I have no idea what it came off of. It was tacked and bondo'ed to the hood that was on CRLS when I bought it, so I cleaned around the edges and cut the welded spots to remove it. Then threw it in the pile of stuff that went to the blasters. Wasn't sure I'd use it, but I'm all in now.

[Low Elco]

Hey, please don't use the great stuff stuff from the hardware store. It draws and retains water and causes our old friend rust, and it'll collapse under pressure (I.e. blocking). Call Auto Color and Equipment and tell them what's up. They have much better stuff special fer that kinda thang. 254-5630 ask for Joe.

I dig the scoop.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Hey, please don't use the great stuff stuff from the hardware store. It draws and retains water and causes our old friend rust, and it'll collapse under pressure (I.e. blocking). Call Auto Color and Equipment and tell them what's up. They have much better stuff special fer that kinda thang. 254-5630 ask for Joe.

I dig the scoop.

Thanks, Chip. I'll give them a call for sure! Don't need ANY of the problems you mentioned.

[SigFTW]

WOW, for a future daily driver it's going to look like a show car, awesome build!!

I have been working on my first rebuild/refurbish (1979 SB Chevy) and it's nothing like what you have done. I still have a lot to learn and to do to finish and get it street ready.

Your post has inspired me to do a ground up build on my next one. Thanks for all the great info, look forward to your progress!!!

Fellow Texan
Dave

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by SigFTW

WOW, for a future daily driver it's going to look like a show car, awesome build!!

I have been working on my first rebuild/refurbish (1979 SB Chevy) and it's nothing like what you have done. I still have a lot to learn and to do to finish and get it street ready.

Your post has inspired me to do a ground up build on my next one. Thanks for all the great info, look forward to your progress!!!

Fellow Texan
Dave

You gotta watch it around Vic. The quest for perfection is infectious.

[sduckworth13]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

You gotta watch it around Vic. The quest for perfection is infectious.

Couldn't agree more Chip. Keep up the nice work Vic.

[gdavis]

I looked for the M10x1.50 tap but I did not have it in my arsenal of tools. So I went and bought one. It worked real nice. Thanks a lot there man and God Bless

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by gdavis

I looked for the M10x1.50 tap but I did not have it in my arsenal of tools. So I went and bought one. It worked real nice. Thanks a lot there man and God Bless

Awesome!

[Low Elco]

People......helping people...... Who's up for kumbaya?

Glad it worked out for ya, George.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

People......helping people...... Who's up for kumbaya?

Glad it worked out for ya, George.

Yep, in fact, I'm working on OPS (other people's stuff) for the next few days. Some sprint car machine work, some wiring and plumbing and etc. So CRLS will have to be patient for a little bit.

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Yep, in fact, I'm working on OPS (other people's stuff) for the next few days. Some sprint car machine work, some wiring and plumbing and etc. So CRLS will have to be patient for a little bit.

Ha, coincidence... I spent Saturday fitting 5lb. of Neighbor Jay into a 3lb. 600cc Micro Sprint car. Had to move/fab a bunch of stuff! Hopefully gonna be a lot of Yellow OPS going on soon.

Can't wait for the next update.

[Vic1947]

Some small progress today. Took Chip's advice and went to Auto Color and bought the 3M two part urethane expanding foam and filled the gaps in the hood. Thankfully, one tube was all I needed. It's the same basic stuff the OEM's use for filling gaps and sound deadening. 3M part number is 08463. It's a closed cell foam, although I probably compromised that somewhat by trimming the excess away from the support structure. It will be covered with 3M Body Schutz anyway, so there should be no long term ill effects. The counterman said you need to be speedy when laying it down as it will actually set up in the end of the mixing tube. So I zipped right along ...probably faster than needed. Had a couple of small voids I had to go back and hit a second time. Two things I found out were 1) re-coating results are ho-hum and 2) if you get the stuff on your fingers it takes a belt sander to remove it.

Within 40 seconds it's hardened enough to trim. I used a combination of razor blades, an Xacto knife and a sharp putty knife to scrape away the excess. Any remaining residue comes right off with ScotchBrite. The end result was very sturdy. The flexing I previously observed in the hood skin is gone and it should easily support the weight when I use the 3M adhesive to attach the hood riser.

On another front, I spent several days working with my buddy, Jay, on the wiring for his 5 window Chebby. That's him sprawled under it tying wire bundles to the chassis. In return, he sent a Millermatic 180 Auto Set wire welder home with me. When he moved, his new garage wasn't wired for 220V, so he got a Miller Sidekick. The 180 Auto Set was collecting dust in his attic ...but not anymore! And yes, this is the same Jay that gave me a Flaming River tilt column when he upgraded to a chrome one. Truck buddies occupy a special place in the universe! With the mighty Speedglas back in service, I'm loaded for bear where welding is concerned.

[Dean'smeanmachine]

good update

[swamp rat]

Welcome back!

So did you only lay a bead on both sides of the supports? At first i thought you filled the entire area behind/inside the supports so wanted to be sure.

Let us know how you like the auto set feature, i have the 180 without the auto set.

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Some small progress today. Took Chip's advice and went to Auto Color and bought the 3M two part urethane expanding foam and filled the gaps in the hood. Thankfully, one tube was all I needed. It's the same basic stuff the OEM's use for filling gaps and sound deadening. 3M part number is 08463. It's a closed cell foam, although I probably compromised that somewhat by trimming the excess away from the support structure. It will be covered with 3M Body Schutz anyway, so there should be no long term ill effects. The counterman said you need to be speedy when laying it down as it will actually set up in the end of the mixing tube. So I zipped right along ...probably faster than needed. Had a couple of small voids I had to go back and hit a second time. Two things I found out were 1) re-coating results are ho-hum and 2) if you get the stuff on your fingers it takes a belt sander to remove it.

Within 40 seconds it's hardened enough to trim. I used a combination of razor blades, an Xacto knife and a sharp putty knife to scrape away the excess. Any remaining residue comes right off with ScotchBrite. The end result was very sturdy. The flexing I previously observed in the hood skin is gone and it should easily support the weight when I use the 3M adhesive to attach the hood riser.

On another front, I spent several days working with my buddy, Jay, on the wiring for his 5 window Chebby. That's him sprawled under it tying wire bundles to the chassis. In return, he sent a Millermatic 180 Auto Set wire welder home with me. When he moved, his new garage wasn't wired for 220V, so he got a Miller Sidekick. The 180 Auto Set was collecting dust in his attic ...but not anymore! And yes, this is the same Jay that gave me a Flaming River tilt column when he upgraded to a chrome one. Truck buddies occupy a special place in the universe! With the mighty Speedglas back in service, I'm loaded for bear where welding is concerned.

[swamp rat]

Updates?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Updates?

Ummm... not really. Been tied to the lathe, the mill and the TiG working on buddy stuff, plus took several days to help my main man, Jay, run wiring in his '52 5-window. I think I see some light at the end of the tunnel though. Should be back on CRLS by tomorrow afternoon.

[sduckworth13]

Nice score on the welder Vic.

[jlsanborn]

I might just grab some of that stuff. Looks great! Spendy? My hood is pretty flexy too. It still has the OG foam pads that I trimmed back.
That was a pretty kind deal between you and Jay. Is Jay on the board? Build thread? Congrats on the Speedglas too! I know you were missing it. Looking forward to body work on CRLS!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Dean'smeanmachine

good update

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

Nice score on the welder Vic.

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

I might just grab some of that stuff. Looks great! Spendy? My hood is pretty flexy too. It still has the OG foam pads that I trimmed back.
That was a pretty kind deal between you and Jay. Is Jay on the board? Build thread? Congrats on the Speedglas too! I know you were missing it. Looking forward to body work on CRLS!

Thanks, guys.

John, the 3M stuff was a bit pricey. Bought it retail, but they let me use the applicator at no charge. If I'd had my own, I could have gotten just the pookie off eBay for around $37.

Jay just lurks on the board. He recently retired and is now able to spend more time on his build, but hasn't started a thread. I think I recall him saying he's been working on his ride for 6+ years. That's a lot to remember if you backtrack on a thread. Listening to some of the horror stories he told me makes me think he may not want to dredge those memories back up.