Starting my engine build

[GRX]

40 over is always interesting. Often indicates the engine was rebuilt twice since 30 is the usual first step. Unless the cylinders were too worn for that the 1st time.

[edit] - looks like christmas all over again. Good to see the bottle of assembly lube along with the new cam.

[Mrturner1]

I'm also swapping the Edelbrock 600 for a 650 AVS Edelbrock, but we'll see how it goes, might try a Holley 670

[Mrturner1]

I'm kinda wondering about the head gasket issue. It was said earlier that a 400 head gasket would be needed instead of replacement 350 SBC gaskets. Haven't bought them yet but I'll need to soon

[geezer#99]

What's the specs on the cam?

[GRX]

Only difference in the 400 gasket is the steam holes between the cylinders. If you are not running a 400 block, don't worry about it.

[Mrturner1]

New cam

[Mrturner1]

I can't get the center nut in the crank pulley loose....grrr busted knuckles

[davepl]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

I can't get the center nut in the crank pulley loose....grrr busted knuckles

You can try heating it a little but don't get carried away, the balancer has a rubber ring in the center you don't want to cook.

An impact is always handy there, but you should be able to get it with a breaker bar (or pipe on a sturdy socket driver) if you can keep the engine from turning instead. I've done that wedging a screwdriver in the flexplate holes, but I'm sure there's a better way someone will have to offer.

You can also use a short piece of pipe or something and give it a whack. I forget the technical term, but even hitting it head on can sometimes "break" the thread lock.

If you can get PB (liquid wrench) in there, the longer it can soak the better. Like overnight, or days.

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by davepl

You can try heating it a little but don't get carried away, the balancer has a rubber ring in the center you don't want to cook.

An impact is always handy there, but you should be able to get it with a breaker bar (or pipe on a sturdy socket driver) if you can keep the engine from turning instead. I've done that wedging a screwdriver in the flexplate holes, but I'm sure there's a better way someone will have to offer.

You can also use a short piece of pipe or something and give it a whack. I forget the technical term, but even hitting it head on can sometimes "break" the thread lock.

If you can get PB (liquid wrench) in there, the longer it can soak the better. Like overnight, or days.

Thanks Dave that puppy came right off. On to the timing cover now

[Mrturner1]

Got the timing cover off and found this, is this a double roller? Because if so I'll just return the one I bought today

[geezer#99]

Turf that old double roller.
Put the new one in.
Cheap insurance.

[davepl]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

Thanks Dave that puppy came right off. On to the timing cover now

Can I ask how? I suggested a couple of things, curious as to which one worked so I know next time!

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by davepl

Can I ask how? I suggested a couple of things, curious as to which one worked so I know next time!

Big screw driver in the flex plate worked great

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Turf that old double roller.
Put the new one in.
Cheap insurance.

Ok lol thanks for the reply

[Mrturner1]

I really wanted to get the old cam out tonight because I'm dying to know what it is, but it's dark and about 35 degrees outside, and when I pulled on the cam it came out about an inch or two and then stopped, couldn't pull it any further

[trac209]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

I really wanted to get the old cam out tonight because I'm dying to know what it is, but it's dark and about 35 degrees outside, and when I pulled on the cam it came out about an inch or two and then stopped, couldn't pull it any further

Fuel pump rod is holding it perhaps? All the lifters out?

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by trac209

Fuel pump rod is holding it perhaps? All the lifters out?

Haven't touched the fuel pump so that must be it. All the lifters are out. I'll be back at it tomarrow early, today was a lot of running around getting parts and tools. I'm really excited to see what the old cam was.

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Turf that old double roller.
Put the new one in.
Cheap insurance.

X2 on that, a sloppy one can cost you some cam lobes, lifters, other valvetrain on the initial break in.

Its very important to get the break in done correctly!

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

I'm also swapping the Edelbrock 600 for a 650 AVS Edelbrock, but we'll see how it goes, might try a Holley 670

Edelbrocks work! Plain and simple. and not technical at all!

[Money_pit]

Soo that's a pretty large cam unless I missed something. Probably need to be getting a stall for that thing. Gonna be a pretty rough idle. Might even be a good idea to drop the pan and put in a fel pro one piece. Did you get any confirmation about push rod length ?

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by GRX

40 over is always interesting. Often indicates the engine was rebuilt twice since 30 is the usual first step. Unless the cylinders were too worn for that the 1st time.

[edit] - looks like christmas all over again. Good to see the bottle of assembly lube along with the new cam.

A short story... I had a 1967 C10 stepside shortbox back in the mid 1990's that was a snotty little beast. Had a rowdy 350 SBC in it. A buddy of mine acquired a 1960 C10 shortbed fleetside with a carbed TBI 305 V8. He bought it thinking it had a 350 in it. Come to find out after running the block numbers... the PO lied. So 350 shopping we went... found a worn out 350 at a junkyard and set to rebuild it. We took it apart and took the block, crank, and heads to the machine shop.

Machinist calls him couple days later to tell him it needs to be bored .030 over. I just happen to be there when he takes the call... with the machinist still on the phone, he asks me, "What's yer small block bored to?"

"Thirty over." I say.

He tells the guy, "Bore it forty over."

He always had to be "one up" on me...

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

I really wanted to get the old cam out tonight because I'm dying to know what it is, but it's dark and about 35 degrees outside, and when I pulled on the cam it came out about an inch or two and then stopped, couldn't pull it any further

You have to pull the fuel pump and remove the long pushrod that runs against an eccentric on the camshaft. The fuel pump arm is holding tension on the rod pinning the cam in it's place.

Gary

[GRX]

Originally Posted by Money_pit

Did you get any confirmation about push rod length ?

Been sitting back waiting for that one. Should be interesting.

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by Money_pit

Soo that's a pretty large cam unless I missed something. Probably need to be getting a stall for that thing. Gonna be a pretty rough idle. Might even be a good idea to drop the pan and put in a fel pro one piece. Did you get any confirmation about push rod length ?

It is going to need a bit of stall, I'm shooting for 2200-2500 at the most. Do you mean a one piece trans pan gasket? I picked up a deeper trans pan yesterday that holds a couple extra quarts of fluid, and I have a trans cooler as well. Definetly looking for the rough idle

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by GRX

Been sitting back waiting for that one. Should be interesting.

Not sure what you mean by confirmation of rod length? I did get the valve springs Comp recommends for the heads though, they were almost a hundred freakin bucks just for springs

[Mrturner1]

Pullin the fuel pump today, thanks for the tip guys. I looked at a couple other cams, the XE268, the XE274, and 270H Magnum, even a 292H which looks like loads of fun to me, but that was too big (next time though!) Looked at the Thumper Series but after a good bit of advice and some research I decided not to waste the money.