Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"

[DWilbur]

the top picture showing the end of your tape measure move to the right about 3/4" that part of the block is where I measured from.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

I fit mine with the cab on.

Before you make it permanent I'd throw a cab on it just to be sure it's far enough forward to clear, IMO this is the biggest deal. Also a factory transfer case crossmember should set the rear height pretty close but if not you can tell with the cab on also. You kept the motor high enough and centered again using a factory crossmember (scalping the top of the stands kept the height). Your motor mount arrangement looks comparable in height to a factory clam shell style (which could be measured). FYI, my 84 K35 engine crossmember was centered in the frame. Any offset side to side would be built into the stands I believe.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Before you make it permanent I'd throw a cab on it just to be sure it's far enough forward to clear, IMO this is the biggest deal. Also a factory transfer case crossmember should set the rear height pretty close but if not you can tell with the cab on also. You kept the motor high enough and centered again using a factory crossmember (scalping the top of the stands kept the height). Your motor mount arrangement looks comparable in height to a factory clam shell style (which could be measured). FYI, my 84 K35 engine crossmember was centered in the frame. Any offset side to side would be built into the stands I believe.

Yeah I was hoping to not have to put the cab on but probably the best. I looked at dwilbers and wasted incomes builds both have there engines in different places. Actually wasted incomes is farther forward and DWilbers is back a little ( I think) I went off the pictures referencing the holes in the frame which I believe are in the same place on all 4x4 frames. With the current stands and TC crossmembers my engine/trans is at 4* down.
Thanks for the help guys

[DWilbur]

info on the bump stops from ORD
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/bumpstops.htm

[First c10]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

info on the bump stops from ORD
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/bumpstops.htm

thanks for the link. I measured my wheelbase I am almost 126" so that means it did move forward just like it looks. I may need to get the zero rates but hope it doesn't raise it to much in the rear.

[DWilbur]

0 rate will raise it what the thickness of the block is.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

0 rate will raise it what the thickness of the block is.

Yes I noticed that..... What else can be done other than moving the spring perches back?

[DWilbur]

Drill a new hole in the spring pack and relocate the axel.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

Drill a new hole in the spring pack and relocate the axel.

Not sure why that wouldn't work. I may have to try it, I think I will do it when I have to shim the rear end.
I got the motor installed and measured the angle of the trans. 4*
The rear end is like at 15* going to have to think about it a little

[DWilbur]

I don't worry to much about the angle of the drive shafts they are close when stock. with lifted truck it depends on how much lift. Over 6" then I would look at reworking the spring perch.

[First c10]

Well I think with the 4" flip kit it turns the rear ended up to much. I am about 11-12* upwards to much. Shouldn't they be a lot closer? Just about everywhere I have read says that. I can lower the back for the trans a little. It but not that much.

[DWilbur]

I know ORD has different shackles for the flip kit. I talked to them on the phone as to what I should order and I fallowed along on their web site as they gave me the part numbers and placed the order that way. every thing they sent me fit perfect except for the steering gear brace.

[First c10]

I did the same as you. I will call them tomorrow. Maybe I have my pinion angle numbers wrong. I do know that I am 126" so it is deffinetly 1 in closer then stock.
I did get the transfer case hung this afternoon.

[First c10]

Here is a picture of the the t case with the brace that goes from the t case to the bell housing.

[First c10]

This is the header brace clearance. Looks pretty close.

[DWilbur]

It's looking great. your cross member is a lot different than mine. the trany and T-case look brand spanking new.

[DWilbur]

I meant to say the transmission cross member. it look like it's our of 2 wheel drive truck.

[First c10]

This is the crossmember from the 91 burb that I got the transfer case out of. It came with a transfer case skid plate. I am not sure if it is better than the 70.
The transmission is just cleaned up and painted. The TC is rebuilt by me before I even had the frame.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by First c10

Well I think with the 4" flip kit it turns the rear ended up to much. I am about 11-12* upwards to much. Shouldn't they be a lot closer? Just about everywhere I have read says that. I can lower the back for the trans a little. It but not that much.

Originally Posted by First c10

I did the same as you. I will call them tomorrow. Maybe I have my pinion angle numbers wrong. I do know that I am 126" so it is deffinetly 1 in closer then stock.
I did get the transfer case hung this afternoon.

Really looks great! I would lower the trans/tc the little bit that you're mentioning that should help with both front & rear angles from the lift. Do you think the weight of all the sheet metal will change your angles also? Perhaps you should think about simulating the weight to make your rear end adjustments to correctly center the rear wheels, then give it the optimum drive line angle correction if it's still necessary.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Really looks great! I would lower the trans/tc the little bit that you're mentioning that should help with both front & rear angles from the lift. Do you think the weight of all the sheet metal will change your angles also? Perhaps you should think about simulating the weight to make your rear end adjustments to correctly center the rear wheels, then give it the optimum drive line angle correction if it's still necessary.

Thanks guys for the support.
I am thinking about getting the rear axle corrected before I work on the angles. The axle needs to move back 1". I think I am going to put the bed on just to check that the rear wheel is centered before I do anything.
I thought the same thing about adding weight to the frame to see what changes... so close but still so far... story of my life SMH....

[First c10]

Since the front drive-line I have is a double carden (CV) style. Looks like I will have to adjust the front axle angle....pinion up.
Can you use a double carden (CV) on the rear drive-line??

[First c10]

ok so I just talked to ORD about my rearend situation regarding the pinion angle and the wheelbase. he said he would machine a zero rate block to move the axle back 1" and drop the pinion angle. the only issue I see is the 1" of lift it will give me. I did put 6" front shackle hangers which will give me about 1" extra lift in the front. maybe the zero rate blocks will work out. I wonder if anyone knows the difference in frame height with a 4" lift on a complete truck can some one measure for me?

[DWilbur]

My nephew had a double carden on the rear drive shaft he had 8" lift and it was the only way to fix the binding of the single U joint on his blazer. I have 4 degree shims on front and back to correct the shaft angle for the 6" lift. that cool that ORD can make you 0 degree with offset.

[First c10]

Hey David thanks for the info. How did you know to go 4°? I have figured it out if I use a double carden on the rear I don't have to shim the rear at all. The front I think I will have to go at least 4°. I am going to put the u joints in the front drive line and get it mounted and doublecheck.

[DWilbur]

The 4 degree shims came with the lift kit for the front springs and ordered an extra set for the rear after measuring the 4" blocks that I had ended up 4 degrees.