I need help now !!!!!!!!!

[74chevy3/4]

hey i have i problem my truck was running great then i stopped to get gas filled up then went to start it and.............. NOTHING ...........



when the key turns Aux. goes on but no sound of trying to start .... i cleaned and checked battery connections its a brand new fully charged battery all fuses are good and i pulled the starter and got it tested and it passed so im VERY lost any clue?

[85silverbeast]

Ignition switch. is it a tilt column? I used to have a problem whit my truck when i tolted the steering wheels down it wouldnt turn on as soon as I tilted it up it will start running perfect without any problems.

[Dalaigh]

Could be your neutral switch, try hitting your column shifter up, I've had that happen a few times and it was just that the truck was not in park all the way.

[74chevyC20]

not a tilt wheel and i will try the nutral thing i have once but it did not work any other ideas?

[tech@scottshotrods]

neutral saftey switch would be my guess

[goatwrangler]

if it is your Neutral safety switch you can jump it for now too. Is your engine not turning over at all ? If not I agree with post #3 and #5. Let us know.

[74chevy3/4]

we tried to jump it and nothing it dose not turn over at all there is no sounds at all

[Dalaigh]

You said that aux is working but theres no start, if the key is in the on position do your dash lights and radio come on?

[68Timber]

Make sure you have power at the starter, these trucks are old enough to be bad about having a build up of corrosion inside the battery cables.

[craazy22]

Put the truck on neutral and try it. Any kills switches. Alarm?
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[TheWhiteElephant]

Wiggle the wires that meet at the junction on the firewall and then try to start it.

[78cheyenne292]

does your starter run if you jump it right at the starter terminals. (key in on position) hook a jumper cable to you starter from your positive on your battery to see if it is just corrosion like bruiser said.. does anything happen when you turn your key to start maybe your ignition wires are junk.. keep us posted

[74chevy3/4]

No Tilt, No Alarms, No kill switches. Dash lights come on with key in on position. Starter will go back in tomorrow so I can try your suggestions.

Will check for power at starter. Will try to start in neutral again. What is the junction at the firewall?

Can I test the neutral safety switch? Is it difficult to replace?

[78cheyenne292]

Any luck yet? do u have any fusible links at your firewall? look on some newer post someone is having the same problem maybe you will find answers there.. its under "truck wont start"

[TheWhiteElephant]

The junction at the firewall is the little black plastic block with 2 posts where several wires meet. Sometimes they become dirty or loose, have improper contact and can result in your truck not starting. And as stated above, there should be maybe 2 fusible links at the ends there. My old K5 used to do this to me on occasion.

If you don't know what fusible links are, they are sections of wire that are smaller gauge than the wire they are protecting. They are found at the "ends" of the wires. They burn out when there is an overload of some sort to protect the components. They will not necessarily look damaged because they are made with a softer wire cover that prevents the wire from burning the covering and catching fire. You can tell if they are damaged by wiggling it around. If it feels like something is burned or broke inside, then you need to replace it. If it feels normal and pliable, then it is okay.

[tucsonjwt]

In my experience:
1) Remove, clean, reattach battery connections
2) Check fusible link wire as described above
3) Wiggle, check for loose wires to alternator/starter
4) Check for dead battery/charging system(free at auto parts stores)
5) Ignition switch
6) Neutral switch
7) Upper steering column rebuild (internal parts- requires professional help)

[D-Day]

After a few years of not having this problem, I am now having it again. Same symptoms when my tilt column was sloppy; jiggle it and it'd start fine. However, it's been tightened up since and that won't work for me now.

It's only after running a while it will do it. However, it will not do it every time. First time it started was on a 15 minute drive to a gas station in the cold rain last week. Waited about 15 minutes, started fine.

I've been getting firewood lately, with 10-15 minute drives to and fro, and only did it once. Heat does not seem to be the direct culprit, as it has been hotter and will still start. I remember what a heat soaked starter was like when I replaced mine. There is no click. Power goes to radio and electric fuel pump, just nothing to the starter. Wiggling the firewall junction doesn't seem to do anything either.

Trying to get my truck warm right now to replicate the problem, then gonna try and jump start the starter to see if I can rule that out. I replaced the ignition switch back in 2004 or 2005. Would it be failing already?

[tucsonjwt]

D-Day - In your case, I vote for upper steering column rebuild - a task beyond my skill level, so I had a pro do mine - very pricey, even if you know what you are doing. I went all around the steering column (ignition switch, neutral switch, etc.) before I bit the bullet and paid the $$ to fix it right. You can search the net for some info on this repair. I just have never had any luck when I bust open a steering column.

[D-Day]

Used positive ends of jumper cables only, battery to starter, turned key and nothing. Am I doing this wrong, or...?

[D-Day]

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

D-Day - In your case, I vote for upper steering column rebuild - a task beyond my skill level, so I had a pro do mine - very pricey, even if you know what you are doing. I went all around the steering column (ignition switch, neutral switch, etc.) before I bit the bullet and paid the $$ to fix it right. You can search the net for some info on this repair. I just have never had any luck when I bust open a steering column.

Hmm...sounds fun. I know a guy who can do this type of work...might have to see what he's doing nowadays just in case.

[78cheyenne292]

the starter didnt even make a click. turn you key to the on position and find an ignition wire before you steering column. see if it has power with a volt meter.. if it does keep tracing along till you find a dead spot if you cant find one then its probably time to get ur column done.. does anyone no how to bypass the coulumn and ignition just to get the starter to run without having the key in the on postion. cause if you can find a way to do that then atleast you no it is the column before you go paying out your ass getting someone to do it!

[74chevyC20]

so here it is i put the starter back in and still nothing "expected" so i checked all you said and its good except the fusible link... i also used a volt reader and went positive to the "i lit" of the S terminal coming off the starter and negative grounded on the frame .... and i only got 7volts .... is that enough to turn over the starter or is my whole problem a bad wire.

[D-Day]

Well, I bought a new solenoid thinking that may have been it. When I got the starter loose, I noticed some seriously weathered wiring. Some cracks, and exposed corroded wiring on the ground, and a messed up crimp connector on the positive wire.

I traced it back as far as I could behind the engine without ripping it all out of the loom, replaced both with some lengths of 10 gauge wire, and put the starter back on without the solenoid.

Ran my truck for about an hour idling, then went to town, came back home and started it up in succession and it seems fine for now. Gonna monitor it to see how it goes, but I hope this has fixed it...

[74chevy3/4]

BTW 74chevy3/4 and 74chevyC20 are the same truck. Father and son.

To recap:
NO sounds when turning key past on to start. No clicks, nothing. Will not start by jumping. "Playing" with automatic shift lever to assure in Park, had no affect. Confirmed 12V at starter and 7V at solenoid. Haven't had enough daylight and/or weather to find and check the fuseble links.

Tucson in post #18: Have done #s 1,3 and 4. Believe I know how to check #2. How do I go about checking for #s 5 and 6? Are there straight forward test procedures for Ignition and Neutral Switches?

On a side note: Has anyone ever had a starter "PASS" at a parts store and still ended up being the source of their starting problems?

[D-Day]

If heat soak is an issue, it's very well possible it'll pass under a test but not under the hood. The only way to give it a real test is heat it up prior, either artificially or from its environment.