My 58 build

[Nordic]

Finished installing transmission! Had to cut cross member out but will make a bolt in drop down piece to replace it. Transmission and engine cross members final fitted and welded. Waiting on help to lift the cab back in place then on to? to many choice of where to start next, I 'll have to see what calls out to me!

[Denee007]

That's nice, what are you going to do for exhaust? THat sure is a pretty engine, but why not replace the fuel pump with a nice new pretty one? This is interesting and something Im facing right now and that's the deal with your crossmember, the one you cut. are you going to bolt it back up somehow?
dne'

[tmoble]

Denee,

If you look at his first pic and at your frame I think you'll see why the stock crossmember that goes under the stock bellhousing won't work with your modern auto trans. Remember this being discussed? I had to remove mine to mount a 327/TH400 setup, there's no substantial difference between between the different GM automatics in that area. I recommend you run the engine and trans crossmembers like Nordic has. This will also allow you to adjust the engine position slightly to allow room for the HEI.

[Denee007]

I remember it being discussed, just thought it could be re-incorporated back into the structure for added strength, you know, maybe modify it somehow and make it unboltable/removeable. I'm not to that point yet, maybe next week sometime I'll be looking closely at this. ; )

Originally Posted by tmoble

Denee,

If you look at his first pic and at your frame I think you'll see why the stock crossmember that goes under the stock bellhousing won't work with your modern auto trans. Remember this being discussed? I had to remove mine to mount a 327/TH400 setup, there's no substantial difference between between the different GM automatics in that area. I recommend you run the engine and trans crossmembers like Nordic has. This will also allow you to adjust the engine position slightly to allow room for the HEI.

[Denee007]

If you put a V8 in with the cab off, how do you know where to put your engine support so it will clear the cab? especially with an HEI dist. Just curious!

[tmoble]

back in that thread where we talked about this originally I recommended you set the bellhousing on the mounts and use a string or straightedge across it to mark the frame at the front of the bellhousing. line up the new engine/transmission with that mark and cheat it forward 3/4 or an inch. I recommended not bolting or welding the crossmembers in place till the cab was on. If you look at Nordics last pic you can clearly see the bolts for the engine mount crossmember.

[OrrieG]

You can get a TH350 trans in and keep the stock crossmember. It is tight but doable. You do need to fabricate a two piece torque converter inspection plate. It leaves enough room for a HEI and aftermarket valve covers on SBC without modifying the firewall too. If you cut it out it should be replaced with some sort of tension bracket to keep the frame from spreading under cornering loads at the spring shackle.

[Denee007]

Gee, Nordic, I hope you don't mind us talking about this crossmember thing?

Ok, Good pictures Orrie! And Tmoble, I plan to re-install that old bell housing to mock up the plastic engine, and I guess I can buy some really long bolts in case I need to move the engine forwardly to clear the HEI. Then I can have the waterpump on, the fan mounted, and the radiator installed, then see just how far I can go forward(as needed of course).
So, option 1) if I were to leave the crossmember Intact(not cutting it), and I get the tranny in with the engine, can I get the tranny back out without pulling the engine?

2) I'd really like to make my crossmember removeable! I plan to cut it strategically, and maybe not even have to modify it, make tabs to bolt it back up and give strength to the frame! ok, how's this sound? Looking at Orries 3rd photo(above), looks like I may have to take a little off the backside of the CM. Dave Chapaman and I have discussed this it sounds good
So, this plastic engine will make things much easier taking it in, out, in, out and not necessarily in that order~ ; ) being silly here!

I just don't have my parts here yet! , but I guess I can put that old bell housing back in and stab the plastic engine, then I'll make a new thread or put it in my build thread and give Nordic back his thread! Thank you nordic for this thread!
dne'

[tmoble]

All good threads have been hi-jacked at least once.

Wow, Orrie, that's tight. Was the cab on the frame when you installed that engine/tranny combo? Notice he has an HEI in there as well.

I tried that with my 327/TH400 bolted together, but it wouldn't go over the torque converter, jammed up against the firewall. I put the engine in by itself, blocked it up but I couldn't get the tranny to go in from the bottom because of the same problem. I thought about bolting the converter to the engine and stabbing the tranny from the bottom but figured I'd never get the drive tangs on the converter seated into the front pump correctly. I used the hot wrench to "adjust" that crossmember. Wow. It's "Orrie the Great."

It's OK if I poke fun at Orrie, we've known each other for a long time on another board. At least I think it is.

[OrrieG]

First time the cab was on the truck, did not pull it. The length of the front drive line positioned the transfer case, which positioned the transmission. I then installed the engine using the front engine mount configuration. Because of the stress I knew I would put on the frame removing the crossmember was not a consideration. The truck I used as an inspiration for mine also had a TH350 with the cross member in place. Yes its tight but I have pulled the trans pan, it just takes a little patience. The inspection plate is tucked up far enough that you cannot see it is two piece without crawling under the truck. The notch in the bottom of the rear cross member is for the front driveline, when the passenger wheel was pushed up (compressed) it was hitting. If you look at my build thread you will notice everything is bolted to the frame, not welded. When I was researching my conversion in 85 I saw a couple of trucks that had welded engine and trans mounts that caused the frame to crack at the welds.

[Nordic]

Back again, between work and hurricane prep no time for fun!( hurricane turned to lots of rain and not to much wind, past the worst of it now.)
Had to cut out cross member because p/o had cut & welded it for some unknown purpose, I will Make a bolt in replacement. Fuel pump works ( may not be shiny) saving the money for the unexpected things, dress up parts will be put on after all the work and assembly is done.( don't want to scratch the good stuff during build!)
Help showed up and we got the cab lifted on, starting to look like a truck! Hei is tight but ok tall valve cover need to go, I will have to find stock height, not running roller rockers in this motor.

[Denee007]

Wow, that's looking great! how bout a pic of the engine compartment with the cab on? Glad to hear Irene didn't want to room with you!

[Nordic]

Today I cut the firewall and installed firewall mounted master-cylinder/ booster and pedal assembly. Also fitted ram horn exhaust manifolds to check for clearance. Radiator ,shroud and support installed.
If any one has a part number for an upper radiator or exhaust header pipes to fit in the ram horn manifolds it would help. Thanks

[Nordic]

Brake lines in and bled. Radiator shroud cut and installed,Accelerator linkage fabricated and fitted. Next up fit and install steering column

[ChuckDriver]

Nice project! For a little more firewall clarance you might try one thing. Looking at the last photo in your first post, you have 2 sleeves on the long engine mont bolt. If you put both of the sleeves togeher on the back side of the mounting tab on the crossmember it would move the engine forward equal to the length of the sleeve in front.

Just an observation on my part , hope it makes sense. Best off luck with the rest of your build.

[ChuckDriver]

Let me RE-Do my last post.

I was thinking about this again at breakfast and realized I wrote it wrong. You can get more clearance if you swap the short sleeve from the front with the longer one from the rear, it looks like that would move the engine 1/2in further forward. If you need more you could put both sleeves on the front side of the mounting tab.

Of course you could move the entire crossmember forward to effect the same changes.

[entourageguy]

Fan might be a bit too far into the shroud as well looking at the pictures.
What is that shroud from?
Nice build by the way.

[Nordic]

Fan is even with back edge of shroud, the shroud I believe is the original. Had to cut about 1 1/2 inches off to clear every thing on the motor.

Motor mount sleeves are welded into mount, I did pull the entire assembly and redo it so it was moved 3/4 inch forward and still fit in same frame mounting holes, same with trans cross member

[Nordic]

Finished mounting steering column! I used a column from a 1972 Impala. and painted it match.( I know, color looks off in the pictures) I made the floor plate in two pieces and welded a bracket to the bottom section. The upper clamp needs to be finished, but things are progressing! Next is intermediate shaft

[Nordic]

Shifter linkage in and adjusted

[Nordic]

Started metal work on drivers side door. Outer door skin was fine but bottom of the door was 'lace". Cut out as much as necessary and then formed replacement pieces. Tack welded them in place and taking a break before finishing up

[Nordic]

Almost finished lower door patch when I noticed the lower hinge mounting nut were broken.

[Nordic]

So.... cut out plate and fabricated a new piece... welded on nuts and put in place....tough area to get into to weld and fit...not the prettiest but definitely functional1

[55dude]

nice fix on the door!

[OrrieG]

Make sure you put the drain holes back in the bottom. And remember to keep them clear.