Project NiteMare-1970 C10 LWB build

[Molberg]

Hey guys..been floating around here for a while now. Unbelievable forum. Thought i would start my own build thread. It'll be some what time elapsed until I catch up to where I'm at currently. It's a local (Manitoba)1970 C10, LWB, inline 6, 3 speed manual column shift with 64,000 original miles. They salt the roads here heavily during the winter months... making this a typical repair for the region. Thanks for all the info on this site so far guys... Start with some tear down

[Molberg]

A bit more... mice. Lots of mice

[Molberg]

This pic was snapped about one year ago... Inline 6 and transmission gone. (for good)

[Molberg]

To bare frame.. that was fast! At this pace it'll be like the BS we watch on TV.. total rebuild in 6 days

[70CHEVYBB]

I thought I would do a quick rebuild on my 70 lwb 18 months and 20k heres what you get and now the fisrt 15k or best offer its gone.

[Molberg]

Originally Posted by 70CHEVYBB

I thought I would do a quick rebuild on my 70 lwb 18 months and 20k heres what you get

Yes! You find a hiding spot for all the receipts in a hurry. (wife) Beautiful truck..

[70CHEVYBB]

there not hidden she just doesn't want to look. I have it forsale locally and am going to move on the something different.

[Molberg]

Brakes needed everything..brake fluid had gelatinized in lines/master cylinders. Rear control arms were rotted through. Found a good used set locally

[Molberg]

Skipping ahead... frame,crossmember and diff stripped, primed and painted. (rustoleum) Wheel cylinders, shoes, brake hoses, steel brake lines all new. Steering/suspension components replaced. Rear differential assembly gone through. New bearings and seals. Discovered I had a 3.73 ratio.. think I'll keep it for now.

[Molberg]

Installed one of these to help keep tires on the pavement.. Richmond gear powertrax locker. (ratcheting spool of sorts) Install was a snap.

[Molberg]

Not much to it really.. they're noisy compared to a posi assembly when turning.

[Z10]

Originally Posted by Molberg

Not much to it really.. they're noisy compared to a posi assembly when turning.

I have a powertrax in my 69 Camaro and really like it. One thing to remember is to keep your air pressure in your rear tires at the same pressure and you will greatly reduce the noise.

[Molberg]

Originally Posted by Z10

I have a powertrax in my 69 Camaro and really like it. One thing to remember is to keep your air pressure in your rear tires at the same pressure and you will greatly reduce the noise.

Good to know... thank you.

[Molberg]

Located an 1/8" sway bar from an '80's 1 ton 2wd. Had to make the frame mount bracket. New urethane bushings and set it in place. (no factory sway bar on this truck)

[dmartin1]

looks good! quick question, for the rustoleum, did you brush it on or spray?

and what method did you use for stripping/sanding the rearend and other parts?

im getting ready to do similar and just getting ideas. (dont have a resources for a big compressor for my sandblaster)

[Molberg]

Next was the fuel tank.. I used a 1973 blazer 25 Gal. fuel tank, with a sending unit from a 1984 K5 blazer. It was one I found that would fit the hole in the tank... and have proper resistance range (0-95 ohms)to read accurately with the factory guage. (It does read accurate) The straps were made with 18G sheetmetal. T bolts fit through holes in straps at outer end, then strap folded back and welded. T bolts fastened at front through cross braces I made. (heavy wall square tube) Straps bolt into threaded holes in heavy wall tube at the rear. Made this way to enable tank removal without removing the truck bed.

[Molberg]

Originally Posted by dmartin1

looks good! quick question, for the rustoleum, did you brush it on or spray?

and what method did you use for stripping/sanding the rearend and other parts?

im getting ready to do similar and just getting ideas. (dont have a resources for a big compressor for my sandblaster)

Thanks! my compressor is too small as well. This truck will be a driver.. and I have to drive some dirt road to get out. Frame paint is gonna get beat up.
I used a braided wire wheel and a braided cup on a grinder.Lots of hours with grease remover and manual wire brush/scotchbrite! Primed it and I sprayed a water based rustoleum. Wouldnt use it again. Their oil product much more durable.

[Molberg]

Moving on to the rad cradle. Commonly rotton on the bottom. A small metal brake is a valuable tool. Cut off rotten lower sections, trace outline in a piece of 18G, give a half inch extra in areas for the return bend. Cut, shape and weld it home. Marked holes where inner fenders bolt up,(used old piece as guide) and tacked 5/16" nuts on inside of repair piece. Seam sealer, prime and paint

[Molberg]

On to the cab.. it was pretty rough. Supports, rockers, pans, firewall, cab corners, clearance lights and a million holes drilled inside for everything from coat hangers to St Christopher medallions. Lots of hours into the cab. Never been so happy as when we set it back on the frame.

[Molberg]

Some more...

[Molberg]

I normally wouldn't cut the cab corners this high... but the PO had a set replaced. And they were brazed in. Warping was so bad I had no choice. Not a nice area to do bodywork. Holes welded in for clearance lights. Metal repairs made to cowl area where mice nests caused damage.

[Molberg]

Cab exterior bodywork complete, shy of block sanding.

[Molberg]

Minor steel work to kickpanels. Bodywork and prime interior.

[Molberg]

Picked up buckets and a console from local scrapyard. Made a support to enable use of an early '90's console. Lots of work to change my mind later and not use it. Seats spaced in cab for leg room, etc. Holes marked on floor, then drilled. 3/8" bolts welded into 1\4' backing plates brought up through holes from underneath. Seats bolted to them to verify alignment. Then everything welded up and welded to pans under the cab

[Molberg]

Some midnight black sprayed on interior after sanding, truck box liner sprayed on floor, firewall and rear wall