Early 70's tow suburban

[Buckthetruck]

I have a mid 70's Airstream and I would really like to find an early 70's Suburban to tow it with. What all needs to be done to make these old suburbans good tow vehicles? I currently use my 99 Burb for daily and tow driving and wouldn't mind a vintage 70's to replace it. I am thinking I would want to update the seats with headrests for some safety reasons, but I really want to know what needs to be done to prepare it to tow a camper safely. I would want disc brakes on at least the front (like my curent one), any suspension things to do? Can newer truck parts bolt on to the older ones to fix any of the issues? Things like brakes, suspension, steering,...? Any input would be great, or a ready to go one would be even better.

[vectorit]

This question is bound to get a lot of discussion from each group of Suburban fans out there.

So I will start with my overly biased opinion just to make this easy

These are the basic things I would want.

1. 3/4 ton
2. Leaf spring suspension
3. Air bag over loads
4. Low gears 4.10 is a good all around ratio
5. Updated rear brakes.
6. Full floating axles
7. Manual transmission
8. Engine set up for low end torque
9. Heavy duty engine cooling system
10. Class 3 or 4 hitch, set up for torsion bar system.

There are many ways to achieve the above, it all just depends on the direction you want to take your Suburban build.

Stock?
Modernized?

Stock:
Personally I would just save all the hassle of a build up and just find yourself a K20 Suburban, since it will have all the beef in the chassis you will ever need right off the bat.

Modernized:
The sky is the limit, depending on your bank account. Lets just say you have no issue with funds, and are not in any kind of hurry. Start by finding the most solid and complete Suburban you can afford, doesn't matter what it was optioned with from the factory since you will replace it all anyway. The goal is to find one that has the best overall quality in the body work, and the complete interior in ready to live with condition.
Drive train.. You could find a rolled over new Chevy/GMC truck, buy it whole and then swap the drive train into the old Suburban. Or, you could just buy each piece new from GM or from a quality shop.
Suspension.. If you are not interested in 4x4, then you can put in a whole new air ride suspension. If you are interested in the 4x4 route, then it's a cheaper and easier route IMO.

The list of ideas and suggestions can go on and on, but first we need to know what your desired end result should be and what kind of money/time you are willing to spend.

[Bigdav160]

Years ago, I towed frequently with my 72 (coil sprung). Even with trailer brakes I was, at times, wanting more. Other than that, it did great. There is more room inside than newer Suburbans.

[lowrollin70gmc]

I have towed regularly with my 68 and it handles a trailer just fine, but I've got a little more torque under the hood now. I would recommend a leaf sprung truck (even if a 2wd) as it seems a little more stable and handle a load better than coils.

As far as newer axles, most can be fit in place with a little welding for new spring pads. I run a 2005 GM 11.5 AAM rear axle in my 68 (with factory discs/parking brake) as well as a front Dana 60 from a 1991 Dodge W250 (engine donor as well). Slightly overkill for a tow rig, but it goes to show that axles can be swapped around. If you're thinking 2wd, the stock front suspension would be fine, probably add a sway bar and a basic rebuild (bushings, bearings, etc). The design was used for nearly 3 decades (thru 87/91) and can handle a load just fine.

And I agree with what Chris posted above, and get the best body you can afford, everything else can be swapped around but body work isn't cheap nor easy. Heck, pick up a wrecked Suburban of a similar year to your current one and toss the drivetrain and seats into an older body.

[wauto]

did you see this one ? It's cheaper to ship compared to hiring out body work.

http://kpr.craigslist.org/cto/4443691247.html

[Buckthetruck]

Thanks! I have emailed about that one.

[Keith Seymore]

What's the weight on that airstream? You may not need to do much at all depending on the trailer weight.

My wife and I are thinking about an old airstream. I'd like to see some pics, either here or on another thread (as you deem appropriate).

Thanks, -

K

[Buckthetruck]

Our Airstream weighs about 3500 pounds. We do not load it down a lot and do not travel with full water/waste tanks. Travel weight is probably about 3800. You can see some photos of the interior of our camper at http://cmsmithportraits.com/blog/?p=24249 and at the bottom of the blog page you can type in Airstream in the search box to find more photos of it. We love it and it has been a great addition to our family! Strongly recommend it, but also know that owning an Airstream is unique in the camping world. There is almost ALWAYS something new to do to it on every trip and they are not the best layouts compared to the newer campers. But I would not have it any other way, personally!

[Number98]

This Suburban is used for towing all the time, open trailers with new projects and a travel trailer:

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=625017

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by Buckthetruck

Our Airstream weighs about 3500 pounds. We do not load it down a lot and do not travel with full water/waste tanks. Travel weight is probably about 3800. You can see some photos of the interior of our camper at http://cmsmithportraits.com/blog/?p=24249 and at the bottom of the blog page you can type in Airstream in the search box to find more photos of it. We love it and it has been a great addition to our family! Strongly recommend it, but also know that owning an Airstream is unique in the camping world. There is almost ALWAYS something new to do to it on every trip and they are not the best layouts compared to the newer campers. But I would not have it any other way, personally!

Ah - 3800 lbs - you could tow that with a Yugo!

(lol)

Seriously, though: I have routinely towed an open trailer at about 4600 lbs with a 1/2 ton pickup (four drum surge brakes on the trailer) for about 45 years.

I don't think you'll have any trouble with a vintage Suburban pulling 3800 lbs.

I'll check out your Airstream photos. Let me know if you see one (needing work) for sale - we can travel to pick it up!

K

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by Buckthetruck

There is almost ALWAYS something new to do to it on every trip...

Try owning a racecar...

[thefraze_1020]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

What's the weight on that airstream? You may not need to do much at all depending on the trailer weight.

My wife and I are thinking about an old airstream. I'd like to see some pics, either here or on another thread (as you deem appropriate).

Thanks, -

K

Here Keith, a little inspiration for you...

I grew up with this camping rig. My grandpa, before he passed, gave my dad his 1975 31' Airstream and 1988 R20 Suburban.

We still have the trailer, but sold the Suburban a year ago. It had a TBI 454 and TH400 in it. Cruise, A/C, P/S, P/B, tilt, power locks, manual windows. 98,000 original miles when we sold it.

[thefraze_1020]

I agree with Keith. With a trailer that light, an old Suburban will tow no problem. With ours on the other hand, a 31' trailer needs something big to pull it.
That 454 had the power to pull it, but you could almost see the gas gauge drop. It just was too expensive to pull very far.

For your trailer, I think you'd be just fine with a 1/2 or 3/4 ton Burb. A 350 should pull it no problem.

I can recall looking in an old magazine from 1973 a few years back. In it was an add for a 1973 Suburban, pulling an Airstream.

Obviously, this decision really depends on what body style you want for your Suburban. Keep in mind though, Suburbans from before 1973 have only 3 doors originally. If you'd rather have 4-door, you'd need a '73 and up.

[Alex V.]

IMHO, for the trailer you describe any 3/4 ton Suburban or a 1/2 ton with helper springs should be more than adequate. My '67 C10 (327 4-speed with factory heavy duty springs, shocks, overload springs, etc.) has pulled a 2,000 lb. trailer with 2,800-3,300 lb. Corvettes on it all over the country without incident. Even a stock 327/350 should have enough umpf to tow it comfortably unless you're in steep terrain. 4-wheel drum brakes will require a change in driving habits or heavy reliance on trailer brakes, but I think the later 'Burbs ('71-72?) had disc front brakes from the factory (double check that with more knowledgeable members ) and I believe it's any easy conversion for earlier ones. A stick shift is the most durable and lowest maintenance transmission for towing, but a healthy TH400 shouldn't give you any trouble for a long time.

Happy shopping! I hope to own a small Airstream to tow behind my 'Burb some day. As others have mentioned, GM used Airstreams behind Suburbans in a lot of sales literature.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by thefraze_1020

Here Keith, a little inspiration for you...

I grew up with this camping rig. My grandpa, before he passed, gave my dad his 1975 31' Airstream and 1988 R20 Suburban.

We still have the trailer, but sold the Suburban a year ago. It had a TBI 454 and TH400 in it. Cruise, A/C, P/S, P/B, tilt, power locks, manual windows. 98,000 original miles when we sold it.

Thank you; pretty trailer. I may need some tips on keeping the thing polished up if we find one...

K

[Buckthetruck]

Do you think that the airbags are needed? I use a ProPride hitch on my '99 and would plan to use it for a "new" tow vehicle as well. I found a c20 in good shape not far from me that I want to go take a look at. Would the c20 need the extra support of the bags or are those more for lowering it?

[Buckthetruck]

Also, those of you that use them for travel, have you put in newer seats with headrests and seat belts mounted to the seats? What fits best, looks good, and helps with the head safety the most?

[MalibuSSwagon]

Man thats a nice trailer.

On towing weight, I have on on a few occasions towed my old Civic on my open car trailer, the combo together weighted about 4300lbs, more than your camper and it was like nothing to my stock C10. So as long as the Suburban is well maintained it shouldn't have an issue towing your Airstream. I plan on getting a vintage Airstream to tow behind my Oldsmobile at some point, the car is rated for 5k with just a Class 3 hitch.

[jeffg1010]

I towed all across the east coast with mine. Camper weighed in at 7,300 lbs... but she wasn't exactly "stock" It sat on a '99 3/4 ton Suburban chassis with a Fuel Injected Vortec and a 4L80E. Towed the camper the A LOT.

For seats, I went with '05 Burb leather seats. Seatbelts are mounted in the seats, much safer with the 3 point seatbelts. Bolt right in.

Stupid economy... (business got tight... had to sell it)

[Buckthetruck]

How was the process of combing the old with the new? I wondered about that as an option.

[Special-Ed]

i would put a modern drive train into an old suburban and beef up the suspension and call it a day.

[jeffg1010]

Originally Posted by Special-Ed

i would put a modern drive train into an old suburban and beef up the suspension and call it a day.

It involves shortening chassis 5-6" and all the associated parts, plus new body mounts, etc... Not worth the hassle. Fortunately, I bought it as an unfinished project after all the hard work was done. Just get a stout engine/tranny combo with a good cooling system (engine and tranny). And beef up the brakes, suspension and steering components. If I were to do it again, I would keep it simple.

[Special-Ed]

Originally Posted by jeffg1010

It involves shortening chassis 5-6" and all the associated parts, plus new body mounts, etc... Not worth the hassle. Fortunately, I bought it as an unfinished project after all the hard work was done. Just get a stout engine/tranny combo with a good cooling system (engine and tranny). And beef up the brakes, suspension and steering components. If I were to do it again, I would keep it simple.

Absolutely not. You can easily put in a LSX with 4l80e into the original frame.

I'm not taking about transplanting body on modern chassis

[Average Joe]

If you have a Pro Pride hitch your in great shape already. Id get a set of Air Lift or Firestone helper bags to mount inside the rear coils. Currently neither company iirc has a part number listed for a 67-72 c10 though. So you will have to measure the inside id and height of the springs while installed on the vehicle and they will find a bag close enough to fit.
I would also rebuild both front and rear suspensions and add sway bars on both ends. These make a dramatic improvement in handling when not towing as well.
3.73's are also a good choice but I would not rule out 3.07's if you have a big inch SB or BB.
TH400 is a great HD auto tranny just add a extra tranny cooler and your good to go. Of course a 4 speed would be better for towing I personally prefer an auto.
Last dont skimp on the cooling system! ID buy the biggest 2 or 3 row aluminum radiator I could get. You might also consider adding an auxillery electric fan as well. A bottle of water wetter is also good practice.
With those mods and your Pro Pride you wont have a bit of trouble towing with a coil sprung 'Burb.

[Alex V.]

IMHO, if it's a half-ton with shorter (29-30") tires then 3.73's are about the best gear ratio unless you have a big block, or something of equivalent output, to pull you along in spite of a faster ratio. If it's a 3/4 ton with 16" wheels (and most likely 31-32" tires) then 3.73's will still be good but 4.10's will give it a lot more grunt on hills - as long as you don't expect to drive over about 65MPH for extended periods. I think a lot of owners feel like their rigs are "wound out" at anything over 60 with 4.10's, but as long as the tire is at least 31" or so high a stock engine will be right in its power curve at 60-65. Also, within a reasonable range of tire/gear combos I honestly don't think it makes as much difference in fuel economy as you'd think - the best thing to keep it mind is that GM engineered these babies to pull, and to expect to improve their drive train combinations much without an end-to-end conversion to more modern components is a vain effort.