Fatman, TCI, or Scotts IFS/Chassis on 49 AD

[jocww]

New guy here, but have been reading and searching. Sorry I know theres been questions on this subject before regarding IFS, but heres my story. So after 30 years Im finally getting into my parents 49 5 window thats been sitting since we moved into the house 30 years ago. The truck ran when we parked it in the garage and so everything is in pretty good shape. With that being said, my dads getting up in age, and so the i6 is getting thrown out for a lsx and 6spd or auto trans, and the safety is getting put on via 4 wheel discs, and power steering. I am also going air bags as we like the height adjustablity so that we can get up our steep driveway, yet can have a lower stance when parked or driving. I was at the Good Guys show today, and visited Scotts and TCi and looked at their chassis, IFS and 4 link kits. I ended up getting the ride tech air suspension kit minus the bags or shockwave, have yet to decide on which one we will be getting. While talking with the ride tech guy I was pretty set on getting the TCI kit as it was cheaper than Scotts which looked really nice, but it was 1k more and the kit wasnt as complete. He said that he has done a few of these AD trucks and that he likes Fatman. He also asked me to think realisticly how much I would have in the IFS and 4link which came out to 4800 for the TCI and over 5 for the Scotts WITH the show pricing. Not to mention my time doing the cutting, and welding. He then had me go and search Fatman fab for their builders special chassis which is 6400 http://www.fatmanfab.com/product/194...-truck-chassis

for an extra few hundred I wouldnt even have to worry about setting all the angles up for the front end conversion, and while my frame is pretty solid in terms of rust, and i dont believe it has been in an accident having a new solid frame build does sound like a very nice option. I am looking for opinions on what I should do. Was ride tech guy steering me in the right direction, or should I just do the IFS/4link bags? If so Fatman, TCI or Scotts? Or sack it up work some OT shifts and get the chassis.

TIA

[Rickysnickers]

My opinion only, so take that for what it's worth. I have a '57 that I purchased and was fairly complete. It has a TCI MII front end and TCI 4 link in the back. With that said, if I were going to keep the stock frame, I would look at Flatout Engineering or No Limit Engineering. If you are going with the full monty frame upgrade, I would look at https://www.canadianhotrodsinc.com/

[mongocanfly]

x2 for flatout...

[mr48chev]

There is a big advantage to the Flatout setup in that it uses all Corvette chassis parts with their crossmember making repairs later very simple. No hunting for that one off special bushing that only works in the tube A arm of the outfit that built the A arm stuff.

You would have to talk to them about the air bag thing though. That may or may not be simple to do. I'd rather run the coil overs if I had that setup as I am not an airbag fan.

[jocww]

I see both the Canadian and flat out run the c4 suspension, Im kind of worried that shipping across the border would be super expensive. Air bags are also going to be a need item as we have a pretty steep drive way, and i dont really want the truck to ride high when cruising.

[mongocanfly]

who's border?..flatout is in cali..http://www.flatout-engineering.com/products.html

[jocww]

Canadian border for the the Canadian hot rod frame. Flat out doesnt have an option for air bags, and I would prefer to buy it all in one big kit so I know everything will fit.

[Rickysnickers]

Considering the dollar is stronger than Canadian money, currently, you might be surprised. It might be worth a call at least.

[mongocanfly]

i was assuming ca stood for california....i guess your from canada instead...
if your considering a complete chassis check into art morrison..
although flatout doesn't offer air there are several builds here using their kits with air..

[solidaxel]

Take a look at Industrial Chassis Inc and see what he has to offer for these A D trucks

[jocww]

The industrial kit looks interesting, I would have to assume that a Dakota IFS is way stronger than a Mustang 2 one. if only it was more complete. I want something that has everything set up, and all i have to either A weld the crossmembers in place, or if the price is right just drop my body onto the new chassis.

[jocww]

Update, well in between dispatches I was able to call TCI and Evan told me that in the end I was looking at 14k for a new chassis an extra 800 for a clutch pedal. So a full chassis from them is out of the question. Hopefully I dont get deployed out of state for Texas, as then I will be busy for a few weeks straigh, and I can get my research done.

[solidaxel]

You are right , that is too much !
I would find a good fab/builder in your area and have your chassis built IF it is straight and rust free

[Dan in Pasadena]

My recommendation would be C4 Corvette IFS using the Flatout crossmember. It's GM factory engineering adapted to your stock frame and I feel that's a very solid approach.

[mr48chev]

If you are looking at a complete chassis you might check with https://www.artmorrison.com/homepage2.php They have several levels of chassis and their "shop truck" sits on the first one they designed and built for an AD and the speak bagged fluently. Those guys drive what they build too and drive them hard.

On the Scotts front end, the thing looks super strong but the only thing that bugs me about it is that a front end man might kick you out of his shop when he sees what has to be done to adjust the caster and camber. From the looks of it you have to take the upper A arm loose and screw the ends of the arms in or out to do the adjustment and then put it back together to check it and then repeat if you need to adjust more.

I've already bought the Dakota Donor for mine. to run the Industrial chassis crossmember. 92 four banger truck. I'm going to use the AX15 trans with an adapter in the 48 too. Adapter isn't cheap but the trans is a lot stronger than a T5. It will shake up the troops because I will run a 5 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern when I use the Dodge van rotors I have in the shed and a Ford truck nine inch. I'm running 15 inch wheels and hubcaps so it isn't an issue. The thing with the Dakota suspension is that it is the right width and not that spendy for the suspension pieces.

There are so many aftermarket suspension setups out there that it actually does boggle the mind more than a bit.

[Russell Ashley]

"On the Scotts front end, the thing looks super strong but the only thing that bugs me about it is that a front end man might kick you out of his shop when he sees what has to be done to adjust the caster and camber. From the looks of it you have to take the upper A arm loose and screw the ends of the arms in or out to do the adjustment and then put it back together to check it and then repeat if you need to adjust more."

Just a note for information here. That is how to adjust the camber. You keep the sides of the A arm even and adjust both the same. To set caster you use washers between the upper pivots. The good thing is that the suspension parts all mount to the cross member so should rarely require adjustment once set.

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

"On the Scotts front end, the thing looks super strong but the only thing that bugs me about it is that a front end man might kick you out of his shop when he sees what has to be done to adjust the caster and camber. From the looks of it you have to take the upper A arm loose and screw the ends of the arms in or out to do the adjustment and then put it back together to check it and then repeat if you need to adjust more."

Just a note for information here. That is how to adjust the camber. You keep the sides of the A arm even and adjust both the same. To set caster you use washers between the upper pivots. The good thing is that the suspension parts all mount to the cross member so should rarely require adjustment once set.

You are right on all counts !

The upper arms (L&R) will need to be adjusted at least 3 times and my front end man charges by the hour!
We have had two of these "adjusted" to get proper castor and camber & toe
And be sure and tell the front end guy about the set screws locking in the bolts
As solid as the A arms are I don't think there is much room for wear so it may be many miles before it needs adjustment again
Scott's does build "some" castor into the x-member and even setting up the suspension plumb and level it will still need to be dis assembled to make it exact (3+ hours)

[jocww]

They look quality made though. Although i we hoping to get a wheel works oye Americas tie to do the alignment. So knowing that it's a pain too do is great too know. The more i look into it the more promising fatman is looking. I will try and look into Chris Alston as we used him 20 years ago or so for my buddies mustang in college.

[solidaxel]

The best part of Scotts front suspension is it installs very fast so you save a lot of time getting it in, plumb and level on your wheel center line and stitch it in DONE !
It is a very STOUT front end

[jocww]

So any of these kits come with the master cylinder? Or is thay something i will have to add on? With the ls1 im going to use that pump to go with the power rack and pinion

[solidaxel]

No master cylinder or brake lines, calipers and rotors only

[Russell Ashley]

My Scotts suspension is the bolt-in model which I think might be the only TF bolt-in setup that they ever sold. I installed it at home in my garage and aligned it myself. It drove fine and had no apparent tire wear. If I were building another truck, which is highly unlikely at my age and health condition, I would probably get another Scotts front and rear suspension. It's not the cheapest but It's definitely good stuff, and USA made.

[paintman]

Just got my 46 on the road with a Scott's front end. I had a few hicups along the way, but I can tell you the customer service is second to none. At one point Justin even called me Christmas day to make sure everything was Ok with his front end.
I havn't had mine professionaly aligned yet but it does trac perfectly straight. And thats saying alot seeing s how I did the install by myself and was a total newbie at the time. TOTALLY CLULESS!

I am currently looking at another truck for my next project and my first call wil be to Scott's!

[jocww]

Mr 48. looked those up when i got off shift 15k is pretty dang expensive for an AME chassis. Way out of my budget. Im trying to get the motor trans and chassis/ifs and rear suspension for about 16-18k all said and done if possible. Paint and wheels can come later.

With those that did the ifs conversion kit, did you guys do the rear kit too? How did you guys set up the steering and the brakes? Did the steering mount up to your original? Did you guys buy a new master cylinder and brake set up?

[paintman]

With those that did the ifs conversion kit, did you guys do the rear kit too? How did you guys set up the steering and the brakes? Did the steering mount up to your original? Did you guys buy a new master cylinder and brake set up?[/QUOTE]

I used a TCI rear leaf spring kit i bought from Speedway for about $500 for my 46. It bolted right into the existing holes. Super simple. I used an under cab frame mounted master cylinder. Disc front/ drum rear.