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#1 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: New Melle, MO
Posts: 104
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Trailing arm reinforcement
What have some of you done for reinforcing rear trailing arms? I am putting a new set on my 71 C20 2WD. I see the factory had a small plate mounted to the top for extra strength. It doesn't seem like it would do that much, frankly. I was considering boxing in a portion before I put them on. Any previous experience? Pics would be great.
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1971 C20 "Shreck" 1980 C30 dump bed "Ratchett" |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: howard city mi
Posts: 83
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Re: Trailing arm reinforcement
Mine were rusted out from someone doing that previously. I opted to spend the extra money for tubular arms.
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 147
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Re: Trailing arm reinforcement
What I have seen a lot of people do is weld all the seems on top and bottom and it basically makes them a solid box and keeps moisture out.
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#4 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: New Melle, MO
Posts: 104
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Re: Trailing arm reinforcement
There sure are a lot of options for upgraded arms and the like. I couldn't see spending that kind of money on a rusty farm truck.
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1971 C20 "Shreck" 1980 C30 dump bed "Ratchett" |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: ord, NE.
Posts: 98
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Re: Trailing arm reinforcement
stich-welded top and bottom seam.
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#6 | |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin & Arizona
Posts: 4,844
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Re: Trailing arm reinforcement
Quote:
Here are pictures that show the top and bottom plates. |
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#7 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: New Melle, MO
Posts: 104
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Re: Trailing arm reinforcement
That is correct. It's going on a C20, but I couldn't find specific C20 arms. I guess you buy C10 arms and add plates yourself. Or some other reinforcement. I don't know if it would really make a difference if you aren't working your truck like a 3/4.
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1971 C20 "Shreck" 1980 C30 dump bed "Ratchett" |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Marquette michigan
Posts: 828
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Re: Trailing arm reinforcement
Was there trailing arms on c20's??? I thought they were only on c10's, but not sure now!!
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Indanapolis, IN
Posts: 604
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Re: Trailing arm reinforcement
I too stitch welded my trailing arms. I have heard you want to stick with the I-beam style (dont box them in, dont do tubular, etc) for best performance. The fact is these NEED to be able to flex. Its part of the design. You just don't want the 2 halves to separate.
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#10 | |||
"I ain't nobody, dork."
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Posts: 8,936
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Re: Trailing arm reinforcement
Quote:
Gary
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'cuz chicks dig scars... My 1972 GMC 1500 Super Custom (Creeping Death) "long term" build thread. The Rebuild of Creeping Death after the wreck Quote:
Quote:
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#11 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,963
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Re: Trailing arm reinforcement
Quote:
Stitch welds won't inhibit the ability to flex. Aftermarket 'tubular' arms offer increased rigidity but will bind sooner vs. factory arms unless some sort of different front bushing is used. That's why those that 'get it' build their T/A's w/some type of spherical joint up front for articulation.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#12 |
Restoring it $200 at a time...
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: NE Kansas
Posts: 886
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Re: Trailing arm reinforcement
I blew apart a set of 1/2T arms and started there. Got the two sides clean and coated, then basically followed the factory spot weld pattern to reconnect them. I had new plates cut to beef up to the 3/4T design. The attached PDF is the drawing I used to have new top/bottom plates cut. I used the axle u-bolt to locate the plate, then clamped and plug welded. The rectangular piece in the lower right was for patch panels in the vertical web. Those are visible on the arm on the left below.
All the joints are slathered in seam sealer - I am not going to let these get full of dirt.
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Charter member of the 'Put the dimmer switch back on the damn floor where it belongs' Society '68 5.3L-4 speed LWB C20; grandpa bought it for the farm in '71. Now LS 5.3, rather than 327. DD '09 Pilot Weekender '65 Skylark 300-4V-4 speed Wife's '07 Lexus ES350; 117 actuator motors and I can't see the engine. Son's '04 F250 SuperCab 6.0 Last edited by hounddogs!; 09-01-2017 at 12:33 PM. |
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#13 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin & Arizona
Posts: 4,844
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Re: Trailing arm reinforcement
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#14 |
2WD Jimmy
![]() Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Davis County, Utah
Posts: 2,564
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Re: Trailing arm reinforcement
I used the Early Classic Enterprises top and bottom reinforcement plates. They are really solid now. Good product.
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#15 |
Six in a row makes it go...
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Vacationland: Maine
Posts: 1,346
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Re: Trailing arm reinforcement
I was on a budget early on in my C20 project. The arms were still good, but rust was forming in between the reinforcing plates and the arms. I drilled the rivets, made new plates, and bolted it back together.
You could do something similar to make 1/2 ton arms into 3/4 ton arms.
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67 C20 long step resto: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342086 66 C10 long step build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post3814790 CT to Alaska in a 67 C10: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=399224 “The height of sophistication is simplicity." - Clare Boothe Luce |
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#16 |
Special Order
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mt Airy, MD
Posts: 85,859
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Re: Trailing arm reinforcement
Is any of this really necessary? Just asking because I've never done anything and never saw a reason to. I don't see rust being an issue on a pleasure ride. Plenty of originals out there still not rusted, too.
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"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~ |
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#17 |
2WD Jimmy
![]() Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Davis County, Utah
Posts: 2,564
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Re: Trailing arm reinforcement
In my case, running high horsepower and sticky tires, yes. In many cases , no.
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#18 | |
Six in a row makes it go...
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Vacationland: Maine
Posts: 1,346
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Re: Trailing arm reinforcement
Quote:
You can: 1) Run your rusty ones (I know people who do); 2) Find better used replacements; 3) Rebuild/reinforce your old ones; 4) Run 1/2 ton arms on your 3/4 ton cuz you don't carry heavy loads; 5) Buy aftermarket tubulars. I wanted to rescue mine before the rust got worse. Probably didn't need the reinforcement, but I'm keeping my C20 all 3/4 ton and might tow with it occasionally.
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67 C20 long step resto: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342086 66 C10 long step build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post3814790 CT to Alaska in a 67 C10: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=399224 “The height of sophistication is simplicity." - Clare Boothe Luce |
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#19 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Indanapolis, IN
Posts: 604
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Re: Trailing arm reinforcement
Quote:
Flex in these truck arms is required for articulation. If they were truely solid and would not flex, you would end up with basically a hinge for rear suspension. If one wheel went up or down, the other would have to follow exactly the same motion. This is not ideal at all. Look at the nascar truck arms... they are I-beam, stitch welded, and have spherical joints in the front. They WANT the arms to flex, on purpose. FWIW, I am using stock arms with no plates added, stitch welded, and with Hotchkiss spherical front joints. Pretty budget friendly, and more than adequate for my uses. |
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