K1500 CV axle replacement

[1976gmc20]

Okay, I'm in the middle of this and am about stumped.

The truck is blocked up on the frame, wheel and tire off, and I've got the big nut and the six flange bolts off and the spline is popped back a little into the hub. But even with the suspension hanging I can't get the axle out, because I can't get the axle flange past the differential flange. I only need about 1/4 inch more.

I can't get the sway bar link off because after popping off the plug on the bottom I find the long bolt is somehow canted so you can't get a socket over the ends of the threads. Tried jacking up the lower A-frame but that didn't straighten it out.

So I thought maybe the shock was holding up the lower A-frame so I took out the lower shock bolt and let down the A-frame again. No better so I guess the upper arm was resting on the stop already.

It just looks like that if I could get the flange past that the whole axle would come out towards the middle underside of the truck. I did take the differential skid plate off for clearance since I'm starting on the driver's side axle.

I thought that this was supposed to be a fairly simple job. Is there anything that I'm missing ??? (I really don't want to take the ball joints apart; just put in a new upper last summer)

[pwdcougar]

This is what my Chilton's manual has to say.

[1976gmc20]

Well, I got it OUT !!!!

Got my wife out there with a pry bar between the end of the stabilizer and the upper control arm, which gave me just enough room to pop the flanges past.

Then ... I discovered that I had to jack up the lower control arm again to get the other end to come completely out of the hub.

I didn't take apart half the stuff recommended in that manual page above.

Now to see about the new one going in .... And here I thought I might do both sides in one day - ha hah.

[1976gmc20]

Well, it turns out that the new/remanufactured axles have a slightly hexagon shaped flange. It's flattened out just a bit between the bolt holes so that it slips right past the differential output flange. You can just poke it right in there.

So, about seven hours counting head scratching time. Hopefully, I can do the passenger side tomorrow - but it's supposed to rain.

[Mr_Rich]

I kind of wish you were posting pics. Back in 2012/ 2013 I replaced the seal on the pass. side of the front diff. on my '89 K1500. I had to drop the diff a couple of inches to get the right side apart and I remember that the CV axles compressed a little bit to get them installed in the flange. This post is very timely since I need to replace the lower ball joint on the driver side and I replace the pass. side at the same time. This project is waiting for me since I'm also in the midst of a residential move.

[1976gmc20]

Originally Posted by Mr_Rich

I kind of wish you were posting pics. Back in 2012/ 2013 I replaced the seal on the pass. side of the front diff. on my '89 K1500. I had to drop the diff a couple of inches to get the right side apart and I remember that the CV axles compressed a little bit to get them installed in the flange. This post is very timely since I need to replace the lower ball joint on the driver side and I replace the pass. side at the same time. This project is waiting for me since I'm also in the midst of a residential move.

Sorry, don't have a working camera right now, and since we have no cell phone service out here in the "holler" all we have is an ancient cell phone for emergencies.

I've never done the bottom ball joints, just the top one on one side which was really easy once I borrowed the right size metric box end wrench. With all the stuff in there you can only turn the nut about 1/8 turn at a time. The bottom joints are more involved they say ...

My front differential leaks on both ends but since it's just a "ranch truck" I just add some oil once in a while. But the front axles were clanking whenever I tried to turn even just a little in 4wd, which was making it virtually useless for my purposes. About $150 for both axles plus my labor.

I think my worn out axle was stiffer than the new one and just didn't want to thread the needle to get it out of there. The new one practically fell in.

I'm no expert mechanic but since I just did the axle change I will try to answer any question you might have. The only thing I can suggest at this point is that if your 89 is a "road truck" that you want to keep in top notch shape, then replace just about every part you touch while you have it apart.

[Mr_Rich]

Originally Posted by 1976gmc20

Sorry, don't have a working camera right now, and since we have no cell phone service out here in the "holler" all we have is an ancient cell phone for emergencies.

I've never done the bottom ball joints, just the top one on one side which was really easy once I borrowed the right size metric box end wrench. With all the stuff in there you can only turn the nut about 1/8 turn at a time. The bottom joints are more involved they say ...

My front differential leaks on both ends but since it's just a "ranch truck" I just add some oil once in a while. But the front axles were clanking whenever I tried to turn even just a little in 4wd, which was making it virtually useless for my purposes. About $150 for both axles plus my labor.

I think my worn out axle was stiffer than the new one and just didn't want to thread the needle to get it out of there. The new one practically fell in.

I'm no expert mechanic but since I just did the axle change I will try to answer any question you might have. The only thing I can suggest at this point is that if your 89 is a "road truck" that you want to keep in top notch shape, then replace just about every part you touch while you have it apart.

I replaced the axles and hubs when my truck had about 150K. That was over fifteen years ago. The parts I installed have held up better than the originals and I'm getting close to 300K at 292K right now. I figured all the work I did on the engine, trans, brakes, and driveshaft five years ago would get me to the 300K mark, but the ball joints finally got me. So I'm driving my truck easy until I can swap the lower ball joints out soon. I may have to swap the ball joints out at my friend's desert place.

[1976gmc20]

Originally Posted by Mr_Rich

I replaced the axles and hubs when my truck had about 150K. That was over fifteen years ago. The parts I installed have held up better than the originals and I'm getting close to 300K at 292K right now. I figured all the work I did on the engine, trans, brakes, and driveshaft five years ago would get me to the 300K mark, but the ball joints finally got me. So I'm driving my truck easy until I can swap the lower ball joints out soon. I may have to swap the ball joints out at my friend's desert place.

I shouldn't talk because I am a cheapskate, but while the ball joints are out would be a good time to replace the axles again.

If I had a nicer pickup, I would probably just replace everything in the front end once I tore into it. But I only paid $800 for mine to start with and it's never going to be better than a firewood and trash hauling pickup. Someday I'm hoping to find a really nice 88-94 K2500 regular cab long bed to become our primary vehicle.

[1976gmc20]

Well, I am sore as hell this morning and it is supposed to rain and snow today and tomorrow, so I'm putting off replacing the passenger side axle for a few days.

Anyone ever just deleted the sway bar entirely from one of these pickups ???

[1976gmc20]

Well, probably no one cares, but I got the passenger side axle replaced today.

I thought that it would be easier than the driver side, but if anything it was worse except that I knew more what I was doing. I took apart all the same stuff, but the old axle flange still lacked a half inch passing the differential output flange. The biggest obstacle seemed to be the old dried out rubber boot hitting the lower control arm. So, I finally got disgusted and cut the inboard axle boot and then got the flanges past each other using a six foot pry bar!

The new axle with soft rubber boots and the semi-hexagon flange just slides right in.

BTW, I guess I need to turn in my Redneck Card because I just don't get the thrill of "mudding." Rocks, ruts, snow, etc are all fine but I spent almost an hour today just digging the mud off the axle flange so that I could get the six bolts out. That's what we get just from driving to/from our house on the county road and our driveway.