72 ABS brake lines

[josuito]

I have a 05 yukon denali 6.0 4l80e 4WD which I removed the whole body to sit my 72 k10 suburban.

I have a few questions?

1- I want to know if I need the ABS system or can I just use my 72 booster and run new lines to each wheel? I'm planning on towing my tow hauler.

2- If I keep the ABS do I have to use the computer to run it? (I have the 05 booster hooked up still).

I kept everything of the 05 just in case I need something later.

Thanks in advance.

[HO455]

The easiest would be to do away with the ABS system. You will need the complete computer system if you decide to go ABS. Be aware that the donor vehicle must be very close in weight, wheelbase, and wheel size to get the ABS to work properly in the new vehicle. This is not a project for the untrained.

[josuito]

Originally Posted by HO455

The easiest would be to do away with the ABS system. You will need the complete computer system if you decide to go ABS. Be aware that the donor vehicle must be very close in weight, wheelbase, and wheel size to get the ABS to work properly in the new vehicle. This is not a project for the untrained.

Is it better then to go ABS? Sorry I didn't understood your answer.
I shorten the frame to 127" and matches my 72 k10 suburban, I'm not to sure about the weight.

[C130Nav]

i'm planning on doing the same thing you are. I have a 4x4 Avalanche chassis, that I'm going to shorten and drop my '71 Burb on to convert it from 2WD to 4WD.

I was looking at the systems that will need to be changed, and my plan is to remove and bypass all the ABS stuff.The front lines are going to have to be made from scratch anyway, so I think just feeding the existing rear lines with a single line and a "T" from the master cylinder might be the best way to go.

Where are you on the body swap? How does it sit on the newer chassis? I'm concerned about it being "ass end high" due to the coil spring rear suspension; and not really looking to stuffing a body lift under the front end to get it riding level.

[josuito]

Originally Posted by C130Nav

i'm planning on doing the same thing you are. I have a 4x4 Avalanche chassis, that I'm going to shorten and drop my '71 Burb on to convert it from 2WD to 4WD.

I was looking at the systems that will need to be changed, and my plan is to remove and bypass all the ABS stuff.The front lines are going to have to be made from scratch anyway, so I think just feeding the existing rear lines with a single line and a "T" from the master cylinder might be the best way to go.

Where are you on the body swap? How does it sit on the newer chassis? I'm concerned about it being "ass end high" due to the coil spring rear suspension; and not really looking to stuffing a body lift under the front end to get it riding level.

That's what I had on mind but I wasn't to sure, just remove the ABS and make new lines for everything with longer stainless steel hoses as I will be lifting the suspension 3" anyways.

I'm cleaning and removing stuff that I won't need like the air system for the shocks and all the wiring system, I already sent the PCM and wires for cutting and reprogram.

This weekend I will be working on the body supports, I will have to lift the body at least 2" to make room for the last 2 bolts on the body as they will hit the spare tire.


Getting there....

[C130Nav]

What are you doing for a gas tank? Since the original Av tank will be too long once the frame is shortened, I was thinking either using the SWB Tahoe tank, or ditching the spare tire assy and using a late 80s FI 'burb tank behind the rear axle. Also, I think I'll need to relocate the upper rear shock mounts down below the top of the frame over the rear axle. That will allow me to get the rear of the burb body closer to the frame in the back. The rear rise measurements I've taken on both the 2WD burb frame and the 4WD Av frame shows the Av having about a 2" higher rise over the rear axle.

Are you fabbing up body mounts yet?

[josuito]

Originally Posted by C130Nav

What are you doing for a gas tank? Since the original Av tank will be too long once the frame is shortened, I was thinking either using the SWB Tahoe tank, or ditching the spare tire assy and using a late 80s FI 'burb tank behind the rear axle. Also, I think I'll need to relocate the upper rear shock mounts down below the top of the frame over the rear axle. That will allow me to get the rear of the burb body closer to the frame in the back. The rear rise measurements I've taken on both the 2WD burb frame and the 4WD Av frame shows the Av having about a 2" higher rise over the rear axle.

Are you fabbing up body mounts yet?

I will be using a Tahoe gas tank as well. I will measure again but I'm pretty sure the shock mounts will clear the burbs inner fenders if you go 2" above the spare tire.

Not yet, I think it'll be this weekend, I had to do some welding in my trailer.