Couple T221 questions

[Short 3/4]

There are a couple of things that have always bugged me about the divorced 221 (yea, other than the noise, that goes with the territory)

First is the rather crude linkage. I want to keep the stock stick, but always thought the linkage could be improved with heim joints. Anybody out there done this?

Second is the two different sized U joints on the stub shaft between the trans and x-fer case. The rear output of the case comes in two sizes, depending on 1/2 or 3/4 ton, but the input is the smaller size no matter what. Just seems like a weak link to me. While I’ve never had a problem with this truck, I guess I’m a little paranoid as I blew a similar one apart on a 60’s Power Wagon years ago. Of course it had a much bigger engine and I was very young and stupid, but still… what do you all think?

Would be interested in opinions of others,
Tom

[cbeerman]

I agree the factory clevis and pin design is crude by todays standards. On the clapped out shift bar on my 68, I thought about adding bronze bushings to tighten it up instead of welding and re-drilling the holes. Heims would be a nice upgrade but you may still need some "slop" in the system.

On your Dodge did the u-joint fail or the yoke?
From what I gather, the factory yokes are 1310 u-joints with the K20 rear yoke being a 1350 u-joint. My 68 is the married style with a coupler for the input so my scenario is different from yours.
Will a K20 rear yoke fit on your input shaft?
If it did I guess you could have another intermediate driveshaft made for 1350s and you would need to find a 1350 SM420 yoke. This seems like a lot of work when a quality u-joint like a Spicer 5-1310X and new u-bolts would probably be strong enough.

[cbeerman]

Here are some yoke pics from a "farm fresh" T221 (also a 68) that I picked up a few weeks ago. Please excuse the debris.
The first two pics are of the bigger rear yoke and second two pics are of the front output yoke which should be the same as your input yoke
Here is a nice u joint comparison
https://www.currieenterprises.com/un...nding-u-joints

[Short 3/4]

Like you I figured I could use some bronze bushings and Heims to tighten it all up, but looks like maybe it need’s the slop to work right. Just wondering if anyone has tried it and made it work.

Can’t remember what part of the Power Wagon shaft broke, but know it was more than just a U joint, as I could have fixed that myself. As I recall it cost me more than a hundred bucks to have fixed at a drive shaft shop, which back in the 70’s was about a weeks pay, ouch!

Unfortunately the large yolk outputs of both the transfer and trans have the drive for the speedometer cable, so aren’t interchangeable with the input. What I was hoping for was a 1350 yolk that would fit in place of the 1310 input, but maybe such a thing doesn’t exist. Of course the stub shaft would have to be custom made, but I have a spare that could be modified.

Thanks for the reply
Tom

[maxwoof]

On my 62, I bought new clevis pins and bronze bushings. It’s been a while, but I believe they were 5/8 od bushings, 1/2 id. I drilled out the linkage bar to 5/8. It tightened things up tremendously. Everything was really loose, probably just from bouncing around when going down the road.

[Short 3/4]

Originally Posted by Short 3/4

Like you I figured I could use some bronze bushings and Heims to tighten it all up, but looks like maybe it need’s the slop to work right. Just wondering if anyone has tried it and made it work.

Can’t remember what part of the Power Wagon shaft broke, but know it was more than just a U joint, as I could have fixed that myself. As I recall it cost me more than a hundred bucks to have fixed at a drive shaft shop, which back in the 70’s was about a weeks pay, ouch!

Unfortunately the large yolk outputs of both the transfer and trans have the drive for the speedometer cable, so aren’t interchangeable with the input. What I was hoping for was a 1350 yolk that would fit in place of the 1310 input, but maybe such a thing doesn’t exist. Of course the stub shaft would have to be custom made, but I have a spare that could be modified.

Thanks for the reply
Tom

Well I guess I was totally wrong (go figure). I dug through my box of spare 221 parts and it turns out all the input and output yolks are interchangeable. Unfortunately all I have is a pile of 1/2 ton 1310 yolks. If anyone out there has a 3/4 ton case that they’d like to run in a 1/2 ton I’ll gladly swap outputs with you.

Also found out the 1350 output on a SM420 is definitely different. That’s the one that has the integrated speedo drive gear. Had them mixed up.

So anyway, I guess I’m finally figuring this thing out. Once I find another yolk I can have one of my spare shafts modified. Goes to show you really can’t have too many spare parts when you’re into this old junk!

[Short 3/4]

Originally Posted by maxwoof

On my 62, I bought new clevis pins and bronze bushings. It’s been a while, but I believe they were 5/8 od bushings, 1/2 id. I drilled out the linkage bar to 5/8. It tightened things up tremendously. Everything was really loose, probably just from bouncing around when going down the road.

Appreciate the feedback Max. That’s what I wanted to do, but was worried taking too much slop out would just bind things up.
Thanks
Tom

[cbeerman]

Now that I removed them here is another comparison of the 1310 and 1350 T221 yokes

The 1310 is on the left and the 1350 is on the right.

Even though the 1350 was on the rear I don't see how the speedometer drive changes anything. The deflector is a little different on the 1350 but it still fits the profile of the front retainer.

Using my front output shaft front retainer which is the same retainer used on a divorced models input shaft. I measured the distance the yoke sits in the hole when the deflector hits the retainer and spline length.

The 1310 yoke sat 0.079" under the gasket surface of the retainer and the length of the splined area was 2.0285"

The 1350 yoke sat 0.067 under the gasket surface of the retainer and the length of the splined area was 2.0090"


Hope this helps

[Short 3/4]

Originally Posted by cbeerman

Now that I removed them here is another comparison of the 1310 and 1350 T221 yokes

The 1310 is on the left and the 1350 is on the right.

Even though the 1350 was on the rear I don't see how the speedometer drive changes anything. The deflector is a little different on the 1350 but it still fits the profile of the front retainer.

Using my front output shaft front retainer which is the same retainer used on a divorced models input shaft. I measured the distance the yoke sits in the hole when the deflector hits the retainer and spline length.

The 1310 yoke sat 0.079" under the gasket surface of the retainer and the length of the splined area was 2.0285"

The 1350 yoke sat 0.067 under the gasket surface of the retainer and the length of the splined area was 2.0090"


Hope this helps

Yes, you are absolutely right (see post #6 above) thanks for the reply.
If you’ve got a spare 1350 yolk you want to sell or swap let me know

[dieseldude4bt]

Originally Posted by Short 3/4

If you’ve got a spare 1350 yolk you want to sell or swap let me know

I have a 1350 yoke and a complete rebuild kit for a t221 with bearings gaskets seals and shims. But need to renew my membership be for listing for sale. If you are interested I will get that done quicker.

[dieseldude4bt]

Ok i got my membership renewed! The Rebuild Kit I bought in 2011 and used some bearings and seals from but replaced them with SKF stuff from Napa so it's still complete, I paid $195 + freight I want $200 + shipping. The 1350 yoke is on a good used divorced t221 that I removed from my truck, for a Np205 upgrade. I want $75 for the transfer case if you only want the yoke it's still $75 because they are made of Unobtanium + any other parts you want from it + shipping.
I will post this in the classified ads as well.

[Short 3/4]

Originally Posted by dieseldude4bt

Ok i got my membership renewed! The Rebuild Kit I bought in 2011 and used some bearings and seals from but replaced them with SKF stuff from Napa so it's still complete, I paid $195 + freight I want $200 + shipping. The 1350 yoke is on a good used divorced t221 that I removed from my truck, for a Np205 upgrade. I want $75 for the transfer case if you only want the yoke it's still $75 because they are made of Unobtanium + any other parts you want from it + shipping.
I will post this in the classified ads as well.

Thanks for the offer, but think I’ll pass

Just recently rebuilt my case, so hopefully won’t need kit anytime soon. Would definitely pick up that whole case as a spare for that price, but unfortunately the shipping would be a killer. Hopefully you find a buyer closer to home.

If you find a buyer with a 1/2 ton I’ll swap them outputs. I would hate to break up a good complete case just for one or two parts.

Thanks again and good luck finding it a good home,
Tom

[Chaparralman1974]

Hey Dieseldude4bt, I will take the rebuild kit if it is still available. I sent you a PM.


Clay

[cbeerman]

I'm interested in the transfer case for $75 + shipping
I'll PM you

[Short 3/4]

Wow that’s what I love about this forum. Not only great sharing of knowledge, but just as important, helping each other out with hard to find parts at great prices.

So what I really want to know is how come all of a sudden there is some kind of video ad in the middle of my original post? I sure didn’t put it there

Tom

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by Short 3/4

Wow that’s what I love about this forum. Not only great sharing of knowledge, but just as important, helping each other out with hard to find parts at great prices.

So what I really want to know is how come all of a sudden there is some kind of video ad in the middle of my original post? I sure didn’t put it there

Tom

I agree with you Tom! This forum is a wonderful resource.

I am not seeing any ads in the post....maybe a browser issue??


Clay

[JPBrecheisen]

Short 3/4

Something to consider, the front drive shaft yokes are all 1310 series as well.

All my 221s are 1310 all around except the 3/4 has a 1350 on the rear output like you mentioned.

I agree that it doesn't seem to make sense but also sometimes it's good to have a "fuse" in the drive train.

I use my trucks but am fairly conscious about it. I'd rather the u-joint give up before some of the other things considering how hard parts are getting to find and at a reasonable price for these 221s.

Jonathon