Blue K/5 K/10 Spicer hub dial restoration

[1970cstblazer]

Has anyone come up with a proven process to eliminate the chalkiness on the plastic blue OEM K/5 K/10 Spicer hub dials? Mine are in great condition except for the 53 years of exposure. I do not have plier marks or other defects.

I was thinking of bead blasting or chemically stripping a mediocre spare dial if nobody offers up any info.

[geezer#99]

Have you looked on this site for anything.


https://www.eastwood.com/paints/auto...ce=google&wv=4

[1970cstblazer]

I use Eastwood products often.

Since these dials are cast in color, I would prefer not to paint them due to adhesion issues and overall authentic appearance.

I am looking for the proper coloring and sheen.

[Drake208]

I used a propane blow torch to get rid of the chalky appearance on my yellow ones, seen people doing that on you tube to restore plastic.

[1970cstblazer]

Thank you. Anyone other tips?

[Steeveedee]

Maybe a little buffing wheel in a Dremel, with white polishing compound? You'd probably use up a bunch of the little wheels, but it should do the trick.

[1970cstblazer]

I ended up refinishing the dials I have. I experimented with a dial that had plier marks on it. The fading goes deep into the plastic, so milling the surface proved futile. I went with code 523 dark blue paint for a 1972 Chevy truck. Looks authentic enough for this build.

[70STOVEBOLT]

Look at post 577 in the thread below for results using a torch:

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...259859&page=15

[1970cstblazer]

Thanks. Mine were 100x worse than what he started with. Mine were almost white.

[1970cstblazer]

While we are on the topic of Spicer hubs, there are a couple of points to be made here with my recent experiences:

My inner hub clutch ring was worn and would not allow smooth locking engagement. Fortunately there are a few NOS on Ebay at the moment. Once I installed the new part, the hubs engaged flawlessly. The bushing on the inner circumference was mostly missing.



Make sure that you have all 12 (6 per side) of the small copper sealing washers 650595 for the Allen head screws on the outer chrome hub ring (retainer plate).





Also, I made a lubricant just for the hub parts. I mixed Amsoil gear oil with some synthetic grease. If you use straight wheel bearing grease, the hub parts can stick and you are looking for smooth engagement. Dana specified the use of Moly XL hi speed grease on the hub parts, and Parker O-ring lube on the control knob o-rings.

[1970cstblazer]

NOS!

[72ironmike]

Wow ! just noticed the spring retainer plate looks like it goes in backwards.

[1970cstblazer]

I've seen the exploded diagrams go both ways!

[1970cstblazer]

Originally Posted by 72ironmike

Wow ! just noticed the spring retainer plate looks like it goes in backwards.

Here is what a FSM shows, which corresponds to this pic

[72ironmike]

Originally Posted by 1970cstblazer

Here is what a FSM shows, which corresponds to this pic

I just read page 7 (Assembly Internal Type) of
Spicer service bulletin No. 5330 7/85

Figure 14 shows & states: "Assemble spring retainer plate as shown (Sorry my camera is bad at the moment)
with the recessed undercut area going in first. Be sure it fits against the bearing."

[1970cstblazer]

Spring part number 660669 goes back to at least June 1971. The spring in my 1970 Blazer is conical shaped. This NOS 660669 spring appears to be same sized on both ends.



Here is another NOS 660669, which is conical.