My low(ish) budget OEM build - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

jgrote · 12-15-2023, 08:55 PM

Hi there. I decided it was time to get started on this swap. I picked up a 4.8l, 4L60e, and all the bits and pieces from FB marketplace. I didn't see the truck run, but I did see a video of it running. Nothing like starting with all the best parts! The goal is to keep as much of the setup OEM. I'm not really looking for power, just a little reliability and comfort. Anyway, here is where I'm currently at.

LeesTruk · 12-16-2023, 06:32 AM

You'll like the little 4.8. Like you, I wasn't looking for heaping helpings of power, but just good reliability and maybe a little bit of fun. I swapped a 4.8/4L60E into my '89 c1500 and am Very pleased with it.

jgrote · 12-16-2023, 10:01 PM

Well, the engine is in, but I've run into a problem. The oil pan is sitting on the center link. I need to raise the engine up about 1/2". I think I've decided to do this by building spacers to go between the frame and the mount brackets. If someone has a better idea, please let me know.

jgrote · 12-16-2023, 11:45 PM

Oh, and one more question. How much engine angle is too much. I measured the 350 before I took it out and was surprised to find it at about 6 degrees with the frame rails level. For me to be able to clear my trans hump, I'm probably going to have to be between 6 and 7 degrees.

LS short box · 12-17-2023, 05:15 PM

Spacers should work fine. I would try to get the engine angle to 5 degrees or less. On my 68 with a LS6/4L60E combo was right at 4.5 degrees but I had a high hump trans tunnel. Zero issues.

jgrote · 12-23-2023, 06:21 PM

Well, no pictures today, but I got the motor mounts sorted. I ended up making spacers out of PTFE. It's easy to work with and will last forever. A super cheap way to get thick pieces of PTFE is to buy a cutting board off Amazon. I had some 1" thick stuff laying around from an old project, so I used that. I "milled" it down to about .675", which gave me plenty of clearance to the center link, but allowed me to get a decent pinion angle. I'm at about 5.8 degrees. The bottom of the pan is 2 degrees back. I still have to make a trans crossmember, but it's going to be super easy.

jgrote · 12-26-2023, 10:54 PM

I managed to get quite a bit done today. I fabbed the trans crossmemeber and got it installed. I was able to get the tailshaft very close to the original location. I wont have to modify my driveshaft at all. I also got the water pump installed.

I am using ICT billet accessory mounts, and I'm very happy with the construction, but they are raw billet. The are not shiny at all. So, I've decided I'm going to polish them. Next time, I'll post a pic of my polisher. It's some fanatic old school thing that I got from my buddy's dad when he retired.

jgrote · 12-26-2023, 10:56 PM

Oh, and here is my crossmember next to the abomination that I removed. It was held in with 2 bolts

binford · 12-29-2023, 12:11 PM

Looks good

Question, why not use the stock transmission crossmember?
I suspect you needed it to be lower for clearance?

If trans is 7⁰ down the axle pinion should be 7⁰ up. The engine/trans doesn't know that it's tilted except for the fluids.
Since the engine/trans is an oil pressure system you should be fine.

jgrote · 12-31-2023, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by binford

Looks good

Question, why not use the stock transmission crossmember?
I suspect you needed it to be lower for clearance?

The original crossmember was long gone. The one in the pic with 2 mointing holes and made out of pipe is what was in there. I just wanted something that didn't look quite so rough.

I got the rest of my ICT brackets, so I got those polished up and mounted. I painted the alternator black to go with the theme. I'm now in the middle of building my fuel system. I'm going with an inline pump since I can't find a tank that fits my needs. I bought a good one, so hopefully it holds up. I spent quite a bit of time mounting it. I have a pretty novel idea for trying to keep it quiet. No pictures of that yet, but I'll get some as soon as I get back under there. And as promised, here's a pic of my polisher.

cj847 · 12-31-2023, 09:01 PM

I've used tanks inc for tanks, fuel pumps, etc,ect. Pretty good pricing compared to the other folks.

I've had pumps in tank and out, but in tank is preferred. (not just for noise, it keeps the pump cooler and away from tailpipes and other stuff).

https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...rod/prd925.htm

PS> I am a full believer in the "low budget, use OEM stuff" plan. I'm a little surprised you wasted money on aftermarket brackets, but OK, you need a little bling.

One thing I have been frustrated by: fuel hose, most brands of fuel hose are crap. You MUST replace it every 5 years or so. (ie I recommend making steel lines with 8-10" rubber pieces wherever required for vibration or flex.

jgrote · 01-20-2024, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cj847

I've used tanks inc for tanks, fuel pumps, etc,ect. Pretty good pricing compared to the other folks.

I've had pumps in tank and out, but in tank is preferred. (not just for noise, it keeps the pump cooler and away from tailpipes and other stuff).

https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...rod/prd925.htm

PS> I am a full believer in the "low budget, use OEM stuff" plan. I'm a little surprised you wasted money on aftermarket brackets, but OK, you need a little bling.

One thing I have been frustrated by: fuel hose, most brands of fuel hose are crap. You MUST replace it every 5 years or so. (ie I recommend making steel lines with 8-10" rubber pieces wherever required for vibration or flex.

I understand both of your points. The brackets were a splurge. I have aftermarket AC, so I needed a bracket for that. And then it just looked funny having that bracket on one side and the ugly cast thing on the other side. So... what's another $160¿ I would also like to move the tank to the rear at some point, but I haven't found a solution that will work for me. I have a leaf spring truck, and I have a trailer hitch that I don't want to get rid of. Between those, I can't find anything that will fit in the back. I'm sure it exists, and I'll cross that bridge in 5 years when I replace the fuel lines. I caved to the peer pressure and went with AN lines this time. It's all Youtube's fault. I was careful about routing, and it's nowhere near any exhaust.

At this point, most of my plumbing is done. The fuel system is in and tested. The trans lines are run and hooked to the rad. The PS lines are complete. All I have left are steam line and rad hoses. I'm using the mechanical fan and the OEM fan shroud. I used my heat gun to massage it to fit with the engine raised. I've since figured out that I raised it a little too much, but I'm done messing with it for now. If it ever come out, I'll make smaller spacers. This weekend, I'm going to start laying out my harness. I still need to decide on mounting locations for the ECM and throttle control box.

So, it seems like I'm down to coolant lines, AC, wiring, and exhaust. My goal is to be finished by late March, and I think that's still attainable.

**truckdude239** · 01-21-2024, 11:42 AM

i did a 4.8 4l60e in my 71 i love the swap its a fun fast truck

jasinger01 · 01-22-2024, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jgrote

I understand both of your points. The brackets were a splurge. I have aftermarket AC, so I needed a bracket for that. And then it just looked funny having that bracket on one side and the ugly cast thing on the other side. So... what's another $160¿ I would also like to move the tank to the rear at some point, but I haven't found a solution that will work for me. I have a leaf spring truck, and I have a trailer hitch that I don't want to get rid of. Between those, I can't find anything that will fit in the back. I'm sure it exists, and I'll cross that bridge in 5 years when I replace the fuel lines. I caved to the peer pressure and went with AN lines this time. It's all Youtube's fault. I was careful about routing, and it's nowhere near any exhaust.

At this point, most of my plumbing is done. The fuel system is in and tested. The trans lines are run and hooked to the rad. The PS lines are complete. All I have left are steam line and rad hoses. I'm using the mechanical fan and the OEM fan shroud. I used my heat gun to massage it to fit with the engine raised. I've since figured out that I raised it a little too much, but I'm done messing with it for now. If it ever come out, I'll make smaller spacers. This weekend, I'm going to start laying out my harness. I still need to decide on mounting locations for the ECM and throttle control box.

So, it seems like I'm down to coolant lines, AC, wiring, and exhaust. My goal is to be finished by late March, and I think that's still attainable.

Naive question here, as I'm planning to swap in a 5.3 that I have at some point. I also have a leaf spring truck, always just assumed I would buy either Boyd's or Tanks Inc. Are those rear frame mounted tanks not compatible with leafs? Looked like there is room between the frame rails?

**Richard** · 01-24-2024, 03:26 AM

There are other options than the old school fuel systems for your modern LS. Offered by most with their tanks. Check out https://www.vaporworx.com/ A modern deadhead fuel control system that uses oem components for the LS that will last for about the same cost as the return system.

jgrote · 01-24-2024, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasinger01

Naive question here, as I'm planning to swap in a 5.3 that I have at some point. I also have a leaf spring truck, always just assumed I would buy either Boyd's or Tanks Inc. Are those rear frame mounted tanks not compatible with leafs? Looked like there is room between the frame rails?

The issue I have is my hitch. It's in the way. I think I'd be fine, otherwise.

jgrote · 03-30-2024, 07:39 PM

Well, it's been a winter. Today was my first start. I got it off the stands and took it around the block. Everything felt really good. I still don't have the hood on it, and the bed is still full of crap, so I couldn't go far or fast. First impressions are great.

I've got a couple of issues to sort through, which is to be expected.

1. I have codes for the heater circuits for both O2 sensors.

2. My throttle pedal is not very comfortable. I need to move it away from me.

If you have any recommendations on a DBW throttle pedal, please let me know.

LS short box · 03-30-2024, 08:56 PM

On my LS3/L92 swaps I use a DBW pedal supplied by the folks at either Howell or Speartech. I would contact them and talk to them about your combo and see what they can supply.

hewittca · 03-30-2024, 08:58 PM

Congrats on taking your swap on its first drive! That is an exciting time. What throttle pedal are you using? When I did my swap I had the same issue with the uncomfortable pedal. I used the DBW pedal from the 2004 donor truck I got my engine from and mounted it with a bracket I got from a board member. It was way too far off the floor. Although the bracket gave me full travel on the throttle sensor, that was not necessary. These engines reach WOT at about 50% sensor travel. So I used a scanner and figured out where WOT was and then angled the pedal down so that the pedal was on the floor at WOT. After that, it was much more ergonomic. This is a photo after I adjusted the angle of the pedal.

**WorldsCrappiestTruck** · 03-31-2024, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hewittca

Congrats on taking your swap on its first drive! That is an exciting time. What throttle pedal are you using? When I did my swap I had the same issue with the uncomfortable pedal. I used the DBW pedal from the 2004 donor truck I got my engine from and mounted it with a bracket I got from a board member. It was way too far off the floor. Although the bracket gave me full travel on the throttle sensor, that was not necessary. These engines reach WOT at about 50% sensor travel. So I used a scanner and figured out where WOT was and then angled the pedal down so that the pedal was on the floor at WOT. After that, it was much more ergonomic. This is a photo after I adjusted the angle of the pedal.

Great tip. I have the same parts and bracket and really don’t like it, so actually cut the arm of the pedal about 90% through, bent it to where I wanted it and welded it all back up. It’s better…..but not great.

Congrats on the first drive! I actually did the same yesterday with my LS swap - drove to the store to gas up!

jgrote · 03-31-2024, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hewittca

Congrats on taking your swap on its first drive! That is an exciting time. What throttle pedal are you using? When I did my swap I had the same issue with the uncomfortable pedal. I used the DBW pedal from the 2004 donor truck I got my engine from and mounted it with a bracket I got from a board member. It was way too far off the floor. Although the bracket gave me full travel on the throttle sensor, that was not necessary. These engines reach WOT at about 50% sensor travel. So I used a scanner and figured out where WOT was and then angled the pedal down so that the pedal was on the floor at WOT. After that, it was much more ergonomic. This is a photo after I adjusted the angle of the pedal.

It looks like you just spaced the top out a bit. Is that correct. Looks like an easy fix. Do you know if that member is still making these?

hewittca · 04-01-2024, 06:42 AM

That is correct, I just added a plate to space the top out. The bottom still attaches to the bracket as intended. I got the bracket from here: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=651123

jgrote · 04-05-2024, 12:25 PM

Ok, now. Time for first impressions. I was able to fix the last of my electrical problems. The truck is charging. The oil and temp gauges work. The speedo works, but still needs to be calibrated.

The truck drives wonderfully. The suspension is soft (which is fine), brakes feel good, and the steering feel is just like any other traditional PS setup. I was a little worried about the pump being for a rack and pinion setup, but it feels great.

The engine and trans combo definitely make it a little more spunky, but not anything I feel like my 18yo can't drive. With the posi rear, she is very well composed. I'm hoping after a little more shakedown, she can move into my "daily driver" status.

Now for the things I may modify. I may add cats. It still stinks, and I'd like it not to. I am definitely going to adjust the gas pedal, and remove the steering wheel disconnect. I need to get it a little more comfortable to drive if I'm ever going to do power tour or something similar. Other than that, it's time to just enjoy it for a while. If money and time allows, I may do some cosmetic upgrades next winter.

12-15-2023, 08:55 PM	#1
jgrote Registered User Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Denver-ish Posts: 107	My low(ish) budget OEM build Hi there. I decided it was time to get started on this swap. I picked up a 4.8l, 4L60e, and all the bits and pieces from FB marketplace. I didn't see the truck run, but I did see a video of it running. Nothing like starting with all the best parts! The goal is to keep as much of the setup OEM. I'm not really looking for power, just a little reliability and comfort. Anyway, here is where I'm currently at. Attached Images

12-16-2023, 06:32 AM	#2
LeesTruk Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Manchester, CT Posts: 433	Re: My low(ish) budget OEM build You'll like the little 4.8. Like you, I wasn't looking for heaping helpings of power, but just good reliability and maybe a little bit of fun. I swapped a 4.8/4L60E into my '89 c1500 and am Very pleased with it. Attached Images

12-16-2023, 10:01 PM	#3
jgrote Registered User Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Denver-ish Posts: 107	Re: My low(ish) budget OEM build Well, the engine is in, but I've run into a problem. The oil pan is sitting on the center link. I need to raise the engine up about 1/2". I think I've decided to do this by building spacers to go between the frame and the mount brackets. If someone has a better idea, please let me know. Attached Images

12-16-2023, 11:45 PM	#4
jgrote Registered User Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Denver-ish Posts: 107	Re: My low(ish) budget OEM build Oh, and one more question. How much engine angle is too much. I measured the 350 before I took it out and was surprised to find it at about 6 degrees with the frame rails level. For me to be able to clear my trans hump, I'm probably going to have to be between 6 and 7 degrees.

12-17-2023, 05:15 PM	#5
LS short box Registered User Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Carlos MN Posts: 2,136	Re: My low(ish) budget OEM build Spacers should work fine. I would try to get the engine angle to 5 degrees or less. On my 68 with a LS6/4L60E combo was right at 4.5 degrees but I had a high hump trans tunnel. Zero issues.

12-23-2023, 06:21 PM	#6
jgrote Registered User Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Denver-ish Posts: 107	Re: My low(ish) budget OEM build Well, no pictures today, but I got the motor mounts sorted. I ended up making spacers out of PTFE. It's easy to work with and will last forever. A super cheap way to get thick pieces of PTFE is to buy a cutting board off Amazon. I had some 1" thick stuff laying around from an old project, so I used that. I "milled" it down to about .675", which gave me plenty of clearance to the center link, but allowed me to get a decent pinion angle. I'm at about 5.8 degrees. The bottom of the pan is 2 degrees back. I still have to make a trans crossmember, but it's going to be super easy.

12-26-2023, 10:54 PM	#7
jgrote Registered User Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Denver-ish Posts: 107	Re: My low(ish) budget OEM build I managed to get quite a bit done today. I fabbed the trans crossmemeber and got it installed. I was able to get the tailshaft very close to the original location. I wont have to modify my driveshaft at all. I also got the water pump installed. I am using ICT billet accessory mounts, and I'm very happy with the construction, but they are raw billet. The are not shiny at all. So, I've decided I'm going to polish them. Next time, I'll post a pic of my polisher. It's some fanatic old school thing that I got from my buddy's dad when he retired. Attached Images Last edited by LockDoc; 12-30-2023 at 11:58 AM.

12-26-2023, 10:56 PM	#8
jgrote Registered User Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Denver-ish Posts: 107	Re: My low(ish) budget OEM build Oh, and here is my crossmember next to the abomination that I removed. It was held in with 2 bolts Attached Images

12-29-2023, 12:11 PM	#9
binford Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Sacramento Ca Posts: 126	Re: My low(ish) budget OEM build Looks good Question, why not use the stock transmission crossmember? I suspect you needed it to be lower for clearance? If trans is 7⁰ down the axle pinion should be 7⁰ up. The engine/trans doesn't know that it's tilted except for the fluids. Since the engine/trans is an oil pressure system you should be fine.

12-31-2023, 09:01 PM	#11
cj847 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Ozark, MO Posts: 573	Re: My low(ish) budget OEM build I've used tanks inc for tanks, fuel pumps, etc,ect. Pretty good pricing compared to the other folks. I've had pumps in tank and out, but in tank is preferred. (not just for noise, it keeps the pump cooler and away from tailpipes and other stuff). https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...rod/prd925.htm PS> I am a full believer in the "low budget, use OEM stuff" plan. I'm a little surprised you wasted money on aftermarket brackets, but OK, you need a little bling. One thing I have been frustrated by: fuel hose, most brands of fuel hose are crap. You MUST replace it every 5 years or so. (ie I recommend making steel lines with 8-10" rubber pieces wherever required for vibration or flex. Last edited by cj847; 12-31-2023 at 09:19 PM.

01-21-2024, 11:42 AM	#13
truckdude239 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Lewisville, Nc Posts: 10,238	Re: My low(ish) budget OEM build i did a 4.8 4l60e in my 71 i love the swap its a fun fast truck __________________ David fuller Ase Certified Mechanic Click here to help support our board!! 1971 Chevy c-10 under going a 4.8l LSx swap Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=421305 2007 Honda Accord my daily 145kmiles 2002 Honda Accord 4 door With 330k(sisters car) 2005 toyota Avalon 228k( brothers car) 2002 Sububran 5.3 245k 2000 Tahoe 5.3l 378 General manager for Marco's Carwash & lube

01-24-2024, 03:26 AM	#15
Richard Senior Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Southern California Posts: 2,889	Re: My low(ish) budget OEM build There are other options than the old school fuel systems for your modern LS. Offered by most with their tanks. Check out https://www.vaporworx.com/ A modern deadhead fuel control system that uses oem components for the LS that will last for about the same cost as the return system. __________________ Richard 1972 K10 Custom Deluxe SWB Fleetside My build https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=800746

03-30-2024, 07:39 PM	#17
jgrote Registered User Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Denver-ish Posts: 107	Re: My low(ish) budget OEM build Well, it's been a winter. Today was my first start. I got it off the stands and took it around the block. Everything felt really good. I still don't have the hood on it, and the bed is still full of crap, so I couldn't go far or fast. First impressions are great. I've got a couple of issues to sort through, which is to be expected. 1. I have codes for the heater circuits for both O2 sensors. 2. My throttle pedal is not very comfortable. I need to move it away from me. If you have any recommendations on a DBW throttle pedal, please let me know.

03-30-2024, 08:56 PM	#18
LS short box Registered User Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Carlos MN Posts: 2,136	Re: My low(ish) budget OEM build On my LS3/L92 swaps I use a DBW pedal supplied by the folks at either Howell or Speartech. I would contact them and talk to them about your combo and see what they can supply.

03-30-2024, 08:58 PM	#19
hewittca Registered User Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Mocksville, NC Posts: 1,765	Re: My low(ish) budget OEM build Congrats on taking your swap on its first drive! That is an exciting time. What throttle pedal are you using? When I did my swap I had the same issue with the uncomfortable pedal. I used the DBW pedal from the 2004 donor truck I got my engine from and mounted it with a bracket I got from a board member. It was way too far off the floor. Although the bracket gave me full travel on the throttle sensor, that was not necessary. These engines reach WOT at about 50% sensor travel. So I used a scanner and figured out where WOT was and then angled the pedal down so that the pedal was on the floor at WOT. After that, it was much more ergonomic. This is a photo after I adjusted the angle of the pedal. __________________ Builds: Green Gus the 68 C10 \| Bluey the 72 1500 \| Lowly the 70 C10 - Instagram: @dr.hewitt - C10 Concept/Development Photos: Master Thread



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04-01-2024, 06:42 AM	#22
hewittca Registered User Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Mocksville, NC Posts: 1,765	Re: My low(ish) budget OEM build That is correct, I just added a plate to space the top out. The bottom still attaches to the bracket as intended. I got the bracket from here: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=651123 __________________ Builds: Green Gus the 68 C10 \| Bluey the 72 1500 \| Lowly the 70 C10 - Instagram: @dr.hewitt - C10 Concept/Development Photos: Master Thread

04-05-2024, 12:25 PM	#23
jgrote Registered User Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Denver-ish Posts: 107	Re: My low(ish) budget OEM build Ok, now. Time for first impressions. I was able to fix the last of my electrical problems. The truck is charging. The oil and temp gauges work. The speedo works, but still needs to be calibrated. The truck drives wonderfully. The suspension is soft (which is fine), brakes feel good, and the steering feel is just like any other traditional PS setup. I was a little worried about the pump being for a rack and pinion setup, but it feels great. The engine and trans combo definitely make it a little more spunky, but not anything I feel like my 18yo can't drive. With the posi rear, she is very well composed. I'm hoping after a little more shakedown, she can move into my "daily driver" status. Now for the things I may modify. I may add cats. It still stinks, and I'd like it not to. I am definitely going to adjust the gas pedal, and remove the steering wheel disconnect. I need to get it a little more comfortable to drive if I'm ever going to do power tour or something similar. Other than that, it's time to just enjoy it for a while. If money and time allows, I may do some cosmetic upgrades next winter.

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