LS Swap with TC in stock position questions

[Portland68]

Having a terrible time getting straight answers researching even when searching the forum so want to just ask here:

For those that have done an LS swap on a 4x4 K5 or K10, can you share your experience when keeping the Transfer Case in the stock position? My plan is stock height (at least for now), NP205 + adapter + 4L60E + 5.3, likely using the dirty dingo cross member + adjustable mounts. I can’t tell if this is all okay, if it requires moving the motor too far forward, clearance issues, etc. and would love to hear from you all. Thanks in advance!

[29od1]

Not exactly what you're asking for but I swapped out the Turbo 350 for a 700R4 which is longer. I have a SBC and I kept the transfer case in the same position and just slid the engine mounts forward and drilled new holes for the mounts in the frame rails.

I did have to get a new linkage for the steering column to transmission shifter because I couldn't use the standard frame mounted linkage when moving the engine forward because the trans is longer.

I also have a Skyjacker 4" lift on my Blazer and didn't have any interference issue with the headers, transfer case or front driveshaft.

[hevy_chevy67]

I swapped a 5.3 with a 4l60e into my 71 K10 and kept my original 205 case in the stock position. Worked great. I used the Dirty Dingo crossmember and advance adapters kit for the transmission.

Two issues I had were the dirty dingo crossmember was very close to the front diff. I'm guessing my original front springs were a little soft, so I ended up putting a 2" lift which fixed it.

Other issue was the corner of the transmission pan was very tight against the front driveshaft. I took the pan off and massaged it a little bit in lol.

[Portland68]

Originally Posted by hevy_chevy67

I swapped a 5.3 with a 4l60e into my 71 K10 and kept my original 205 case in the stock position. Worked great. I used the Dirty Dingo crossmember and advance adapters kit for the transmission.

Two issues I had were the dirty dingo crossmember was very close to the front diff. I'm guessing my original front springs were a little soft, so I ended up putting a 2" lift which fixed it.

Other issue was the corner of the transmission pan was very tight against the front driveshaft. I took the pan off and massaged it a little bit in lol.

Thanks for the replies guys! That’s great to hear, any idea roughly how far forward you moved the motor? I assume roughly 2” for the adapter and I think 1.75” for the transmission so roughly 4” total? Also curious about total $ if you don’t mind me asking, I’m figuring roughly 6k in parts and up to 2k in labor depending on what my dad and I can’t do ourselves.

[hevy_chevy67]

Originally Posted by Portland68

Thanks for the replies guys! That’s great to hear, any idea roughly how far forward you moved the motor? I assume roughly 2” for the adapter and I think 1.75” for the transmission so roughly 4” total? Also curious about total $ if you don’t mind me asking, I’m figuring roughly 6k in parts and up to 2k in labor depending on what my dad and I can’t do ourselves.

I'm not sure how far it would have moved forward. I used the Dingo mounts with their crossmember, and they slide so it made it easy getting the motor in the right spot.

I had my transmisison rebuilt with this kit/adapter to bolt it up to my 205.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ADD-50-5311

Here is a pic I could find, the coil pack sits pretty close to the firewall.

[hevy_chevy67]

Originally Posted by Portland68

Thanks for the replies guys! That’s great to hear, any idea roughly how far forward you moved the motor? I assume roughly 2” for the adapter and I think 1.75” for the transmission so roughly 4” total? Also curious about total $ if you don’t mind me asking, I’m figuring roughly 6k in parts and up to 2k in labor depending on what my dad and I can’t do ourselves.

You're probably in the ball park for costs. There is definitely room to cut costs from my list.

Dirty Dingo 350.00
Headers 300.00
Advance Adapters 750.00
Dakota Digital 950.00
Lokar Shifter 450.00
Trans rebuild 1,000.00
Exhaust 400.00
ECM programed 100.00
Harness 800.00
Fuel tank, pump 1,000.00
Radiator 600.00
Odds & ends 500.00
7,200.00

[hemi43]

All I bought was the Advanced adapter. Made my own mounts, crossmember, rad, fuel tank and harness.
I don't recommend headers for one reason, they suck and will cause you nothing but grief.
I used 2012 Camaro exhaust manifolds. If you need your ECM reprogramed buy HP Tuners and you will have it for life. You will need to tweak shift points down the road, so why pay someone else.
One thing you will need is another oil pan with a rear sump if you want to stay at stock ride height because the stock truck pan will hit the front diff housing.
The stock shifter work perfectly fine, so no need to get a Lokar.
IIRC, the engine moved forward around 1 7/8" from stock. The transfer case can't easily be moved from it's original postion,so it will determine the transmission and engine location.
If your fuel tank is in good condition, modify it and use a stock slide in pump unit same as what was used on the donor truck. These are way superior to anything aftermarket.

[Blazerowner]

I installed a 4l80 with an ls3 and moved the engine forward. The only issue you may run into is clearance with the crossmember and top of the front axle. I had to install a 3” lift to clear. Everything else was pretty straight forward.