Dropping the 1 ton!

[tc4x4]

Both of those wheels are very NICE! I'm leaning more towards the lower profile tire also.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tc4x4

Both of those wheels are very NICE! I'm leaning more towards the lower profile tire also.

Did you already have a specific size in mind? Too low profile = shorter overall OD.

[tc4x4]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Did you already have a specific size in mind? Too low profile = shorter overall OD.

What does OD mean?

[J Knight]

OD is outside diameter measurement.
Posted via Mobile Device

[tc4x4]

That is what my guess was! Thanks!

[tc4x4]

Here is my truck, there is no sway bar set up and does not appear to of come with one, i do however have these two metal "beams" running from my front setup to the the frame. Is this what they might have done instead for 1 tons?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tc4x4

Here is my truck, there is no sway bar set up and does not appear to of come with one, i do however have these two metal "beams" running from my front setup to the the frame. Is this what they might have done instead for 1 tons?

Those reinforcement bars were on the C30's for sure & prob C20's. Sway bars were optional & usually most big/HD trucks got them. You would definitely benefit from a HD sway bar installed w/some poly bushings. Night & day difference when put to the test.....

[tc4x4]

Where would one get one? Junk Yard? Can they be bought new aftermarket?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tc4x4

Where would one get one? Junk Yard? Can they be bought new aftermarket?

Check w/Rob @ NoLimit Engineering. He was marketing a beefy 1 3/8" set-up & that's the way I'd go if sourcing a new unit. If you plan to go w/a used OE bar, look under any burb, C20, or C30.... sooner or later you'll come across one of the HD 1 1/4" bars. With a 5" or greater front drop, you won't need the frame stanchions; the bar can be directly mounted to the frame rails.

[tc4x4]

So now to figure out what I'm doing with the rear end... I found this western chassis axle flip kit. I'm a little confused though because there seems to be different parts showing for different websites. When i post the part number into summit's website then i see what I'm pretty sure i will get in the mail when i order it. Does this look right to you guys? Does it seems a little cheap? Any better thoughts?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DJ...24-5/?rtype=10

http://www.gcustoms.com/7387-chevygm...4c1cf11a77ea63

When i look at the kit here it shows more, and talks about needing to buy more than besides the kit. If i order the summit kit, is that all i will need and is that a good kit?

[lolife99]

The Summit stuff says C10.
You need C30 stuff.
Did you look at the link I posted?
( http://www.summitracing.com/search/Y...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc)


This is the Western Chassis C30 flip kit (with a bolt in C-notch).
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WST-211626/

The one you posted from "gcustoms.com" is a DJM Flip kit without a c-notch.

I would use the Western Chassis version!

[tc4x4]

I new that i found those at one point, but couldn't get back to them again, Thanks!

[tc4x4]

So while i have the trucks front end all opened up, I'm thinking about just replacing it all. Ball joints, brakes, calipers, rotors, and brake lines. What after market parts are out there that would be a nice "improvement" over stock?

Also if i got some drop springs for this along with the spindles, where would be a good place to get them, i have heard LMC sucks, so would i just get new half ton drop springs? Or are there ones specifically for 1 tons?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tc4x4

So while i have the trucks front end all opened up, I'm thinking about just replacing it all. Ball joints, brakes, calipers, rotors, and brake lines. What after market parts are out there that would be a nice "improvement" over stock?

Also if i got some drop springs for this along with the spindles, where would be a good place to get them, i have heard LMC sucks, so would i just get new half ton drop springs? Or are there ones specifically for 1 tons?

How did the truck drive before tearing it apart? Was there any difference in height between the L & R sides?

C20's & 30's typically came w/HD coils up front. If the truck isn't beat to crap, just re-use them. If you insist on replacing the coils, get HD coils regardless of the mfr you choose & see if they have C20/30 spec'd coils when you get your info.

As far as improving performance, the big sway bar w/poly bushings would be top priority. The best quality shock you can afford & the same for the tires. Dont settle for a 'stock' alignment either.... go to someone that understands you want the most out of your combination.

[tc4x4]

I think my last post was not clear, i have not torn into the truck yet, I'm just making a list of things I will need for when I start the project. Trying to get my ducks in a row you could say!

The truck rides great right now, It has really been taken care of by the original owner. I'm probably just going to keep the stock springs on and cut them.

As far as your last comment on a "stock" alignment, could you expand about what I would want to look out for. I'm assuming the truck will need an alignment when I am done with the drop?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tc4x4

I think my last post was not clear, i have not torn into the truck yet, I'm just making a list of things I will need for when I start the project. Trying to get my ducks in a row you could say!

The truck rides great right now, It has really been taken care of by the original owner. I'm probably just going to keep the stock springs on and cut them.

As far as your last comment on a "stock" alignment, could you expand about what I would want to look out for. I'm assuming the truck will need an alignment when I am done with the drop?

Many 'generic' repair shops (Sears, Firestone, Goodyear,....) do alignments strictly by the book. If the book (well, computer now ) tells them it has to have +.5 camber, +3° caster, & +.125 toe, that's the only settings they'll go with.

An independent shop (or any shop that has a gearhead running the alignment equipment) knows the specs are just a reference point & that other settings can/do sometimes work better depending on the objective. I personally target about .5 ~.75 negative camber, as much caster as possible, & as little toe as possible.

As with anything, if a guy chooses to utilize different settings vs. what's spec'd, it will be @ his own risk & therefore he can't really expect standard warranty or pricing. That being said, I've only had 1 issue where the toe wasn't set to ideal & it did eat up a set of tires faster than I wanted. I had it re-checked (@ an addiditional expense to me) & corrected since everything else was still @ the same settings.

For more in depth info on 'alternative' alignment philosophies read this thread. This is the type of guy you want to find to do the alignment!
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=487363

[tc4x4]

I called over to No Limit and they have a 1'' 1/4 sway bar kit with poly bushings. Its $189. That is the beefiest they have. Seems like a reasonable price.

[kitsbeach]

How much space between the pumpkin and the bed once done.?

I've got a "heavy" 3/4 ton with the big rear differential.

I understand all the other bits...C-notch etc. I've lowered my '67 no probs.

I figure with a C-notch there'll be 2-3" between axle tube and the frame, which is fine for me.

But wondering if there'll be 2-3 from the pumpkin to the bed floor?

Planning 8-lug short bed conversion and a 6/8 drop to be cheap and different. I know I can change over to half ton stuff if I need to.

Couple pics to show the starting point.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

How much space between the pumpkin and the bed once done.?

I've got a "heavy" 3/4 ton with the big rear differential.

I understand all the other bits...C-notch etc. I've lowered my '67 no probs.

I figure with a C-notch there'll be 2-3" between axle tube and the frame, which is fine for me.

But wondering if there'll be 2-3 from the pumpkin to the bed floor?

Planning 8-lug short bed conversion to be cheap and different. I know I can change over to half ton stuff if I need to.

My dually had similar spacial dimensions @ the axle/frame rail & differental/floor. As you noted, the c-sections help @ the frame rail but you still lose clearance @ the differential/floor.

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

My dually had similar spacial dimensions @ the axle/frame rail & differental/floor. As you noted, the c-sections help @ the frame rail but you still lose clearance @ the differential/floor.

Thanks SCOTTI but did your diff hit the bed floor regularly?

I can handle a little bashing and banging occasionally on a big bump. But I don't really want continuous bottoming out. If there is less than 2-3 inches from the big 1 ton diff I might swap out to a half ton diff.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

Thanks SCOTTI but did your diff hit the bed floor regularly?

I can handle a little bashing and banging occasionally on a big bump. But I don't really want continuous bottoming out. If there is less than 2-3 inches from the big 1 ton diff I might swap out to a half ton diff.

There was about 1" of clearance so it would have made contact more than desired.

My '74 1/2 ton had this same issue & would make contact more than I cared for. That was a driving factor in my decision of installing a beefier step-notch & raising the bed floor. The step-notch maintains the rail strength & the raised floor allows clearance. The truck is lower than it could have been w/no clearance issues when driving.

[kitsbeach]

Thanks SCOTI that’s exactly the info I was looking for.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

Thanks SCOTI that’s exactly the info I was looking for.

No problem. I loved driving my '74 & drove it daily. My '68 that preceded the '74 was the same... C-notch required 'low' & driven daily. But, the '68 clearanced the wooden floor on it's own within the first few miles of driving; the steel floor of the '74 was not so forgiving.

While it didn't hit on every bump, it hit enough that I grew tired of it for daily use. Ultimately my plan was to correct the issue but then another board-member offered a trade for a Squarebody CC dually & I went that route as I was in the middle of building a frame for my '64 project. I took the same ideas I had for the '74 & applied them to my '64 & dually. The '64 isn't done but the dually has about 7500miles w/o a single issue w/the rear axle hitting the frame or floor. Not once....

*EDIT* I just noticed your set-up was a wooden flatbed. You might have additional clearance vs a steel floor (or less?). It warrants getting out the tape measure to verify the distance between the axle tube/frame rail & differential/floor.