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Old 03-08-2014, 03:42 PM   #1
SCOTI
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Re: Servicing the rear end hubs on a dually

Quote:
Originally Posted by franken View Post
Sounds like you know what you're doing, but didin't try the cold, hot part, or getting the parts lined up 1st.
Well the cold/hot would have taken some doing since I don't personally have an oven or a grille. I planned to use a propane torch for the heat & put the races in a deep freezer overnight tonight if things didn't go well this morning. Every time I attempted to knock the race into place, the 'tool' was as plumb/vertical as possible so my 'alignment' was correct.

But..... They're installed. The right tools make a BIG difference w/the installation. No changes on installation technique. No changes in my 'procedure'. I even had to show the tech @ my buddies work the order of assembly (he said it had been 10+yrs since he'd messed aroung w/C30 hubs). A few good whacks using his driver vs the aluminum store brand unit & it was in. I did use the alum driver to knock it in further (to the point the snap ring could be installed)....
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.

Last edited by SCOTI; 03-08-2014 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:50 PM   #2
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Re: Servicing the rear end hubs on a dually

Just a couple follow-up questions.....

If I understand correctly, the rear hub bearings are done similar to how the front spindle/hub bearings are done:
  • Tighten the bearing nut down to recommended specs (50ft/lbs in the case of the Dana 70hd rear according to my service manual) while turning the hub.
  • Back off the nut until loose enough to turn by hand but not exceeding 1-notch on the nut.
  • Align the closest notch in the nut w/the keyway on the axle tube.
Sound right??

And....

The new-drum/rebuilt hub assemblys were re-installed over new brake shoes & hardware. The adjusting nut for the shoes on both sides are adjusted 100% in. There is zero drag on the pass side & moderate drag on the drivers side. I backed off the tension rod for the e-brake & it sure seems loose but there's still some drag @ the drum.

Am I missing something here as far as adjustment? I'm extra concerned because this side was the worst of the 2 as far as material remaining on the shoes (all friction material was gone & it was metal to metal contact before servicing).
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 03-12-2014, 04:04 PM   #3
SCOTI
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Re: Servicing the rear end hubs on a dually

Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI View Post
And....

The new-drum/rebuilt hub assemblys were re-installed over new brake shoes & hardware. The adjusting nut for the shoes on both sides are adjusted 100% in. There is zero drag on the pass side & moderate drag on the drivers side. I backed off the tension rod for the e-brake & it sure seems loose but there's still some drag @ the drum.

Am I missing something here as far as adjustment? I'm extra concerned because this side was the worst of the 2 as far as material remaining on the shoes (all friction material was gone & it was metal to metal contact before servicing).
Figured this one out.... I had backed off the adjustment rod for the e-brake (from it's original position) when the rear end was re-installed. The more I kept thinking about it, I decided that would be the easiest item to 100% eliminate from the possibilities. I backed off the tension nut completely @ lunch today & there's zero drag on the driver side now.

Glad I checked this 1st. My 2nd choice was to disassemble/remove the hubs from the rear end & swap them side-to-side to see if the issue followed the drum/hub or stayed on the drivers side. Much less work
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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