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#1 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,484
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Supporting engine when removing trans
I can support the engine by using a 16" scissors jack and 3 pieces of 1.5" thick lumber to to reach up to the oil pan at 20". But that might be kind of wobbly.
Found a few jacks with 24" max lift, but hate to spend $50 for something I'll probably use only once. About 19" lift would be ideal -- jack + a 2x8 to spread the load on the pan. Truck is a 69 C10 with a 350. Any ideas?
__________________
Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: PNW
Posts: 553
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
Won't the engine mounts support the engine?
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#3 |
State of Confusion!
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Gulfport, MS USA
Posts: 46,844
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
Sometimes I will use a tie down strap under the oil pan between the frame rails to add extra stability when yanking a transmission. It's rare, since I am normally alone, that I do an engine and tranny together. I do the tie strap under transmission bell housing if I am doing just engine. Doing it that way means I can push the vehicle around some if need be.
__________________
Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God! |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Elkhart, Texas
Posts: 1,687
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
In the 30 plus years I worked as a mechanic, I removed hundreds (maybe thousands) transmissions.. I can't remember once having to support the engine due to "wobbling". In almost all cases, I had to move the vehicle to the outside of the building to make room for the next one. The mounts in conjunction with the exhaust system supports the engine just fine. This excludes FWD vehicles.
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#5 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,484
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
Thanks to everyone for the comments. Just remembered that I actually used a tie down once!
Rusty, your comments shed some light on how GM mechanics were able to do it that way. My exhaust manifolds and pipes are in place, so I'll give it a try. Worst case is a buddy of mine has a scissors jack that extends to 24". My main concerns were twisting the rubber pads on the side mounts or having the fan hit the shroud.
__________________
Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: PNW
Posts: 553
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
What? Why would that happen? You yank the prop, unbolt the transmission, slide it back, and drop it down. That's it.
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#7 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Colfax-California
Posts: 8,518
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
The exhaust system usually will hold up the engine enough. If I have to move the car/truck substantially I will either thread in a couple of long 3/8'' bolts into the lower bellhousing bolt holes and set a 2x2 across the frame rails or just use a heavy duty ratchet strap rail to rail. The early 4x4s with the engine stuffed into the firewall need the dist cap loosed so it doesn't get broken.
If you are not moving the truck then what you propose will work just fine and be relatively solid |
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#8 | |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,484
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
Quote:
Thanks to the guys with helpful comments and suggestions.
__________________
Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! Last edited by MikeB; 06-23-2022 at 06:09 PM. |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: PNW
Posts: 553
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
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#10 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,086
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
Worst-case scenario is the motor mounts are broken and the exhaust pipes are paper thin. Then the engine falls backwards and breaks the shroud, the fan hits the radiator, the distributor cap gets broken and oil pan gets crushed exactly 37 minutes after you pull the transmission.
I'm not pessimistic, I've just spent a lot of years working on junk. ![]() It's always better to be safe than sorry in my world.
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#11 | |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Gods country East,Tn
Posts: 8,545
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
Quote:
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__________________
![]() 1967 Factory short bed - Old school '71 - 350 / 4bolt / 487 heads / Edelbrock C3BX Muncie M-22 4 speed / Hurst Comp plus Factory 12 bolt posi 3.73 / 255-70-15 Smoothed firewall / Factory cowl induction Power disc brakes / power steering / 3.5-5" drop |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 189
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
If you did want to support the engine while removing the transmission, you can always use a chain from the top as well.
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#13 | |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,484
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
Quote:
Non-issue? That's not the case as you can see from the responses in this thread. Also, Google this: "support for Chevy V-8 when removing transmission." There sure is a lot of discussion about this "non-issue."
__________________
Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: PNW
Posts: 553
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Moorpark, CA
Posts: 755
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
OP
My $.02...having done this a few dozen times over several vehicles I have or had. Any type of jack, floorstand, etc to support the motor from under the pan is ideal vs just letting the motor hang from motor mounts and exhaust. If your MM are not yet separated, letting engine hand from them will typically F them up Yes there are some, including working mechanics who just yank trans and let engine dangle from MM or exhaust. Not what "I" would do. Ratchet strap under to frame rail, board, whatever so car can be moved around if needed are all good solutions. |
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#16 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Gods country East,Tn
Posts: 8,545
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
I have to say That NOT everyone in here is a professional mechanic with professional tools / A lift / and Many are first time owners of a classic truck , when we give advice we all need to remember that many of the people in here have never touched a jack or a set of jack stands in their life , They come here looking for advice and many follow what they read word for word and I think that we all should support SAFETY as the most important aspect of working on these old trucks more so than any other advice we can give . "you" may be the most experienced mechanic or restorer in here and fast isn't always the best idea when we're dealing with procedures that quite possible could get someone killed or seriously injured if done wrong . Think safety first !
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__________________
![]() 1967 Factory short bed - Old school '71 - 350 / 4bolt / 487 heads / Edelbrock C3BX Muncie M-22 4 speed / Hurst Comp plus Factory 12 bolt posi 3.73 / 255-70-15 Smoothed firewall / Factory cowl induction Power disc brakes / power steering / 3.5-5" drop |
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#17 | |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Jurupa Valley, Ca
Posts: 1,210
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
Quote:
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Terry 1970 Custom Camper/C20 , GM Crate 350/7004R, Dana 60, factory AC |
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#18 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Nanaimo, BC CANADA
Posts: 57
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
I agree too. This group that supports the 67-72 question period varies between expert and novice. Some have made their living repairing the stuff I've never seen apart. Questions are good. Good answers are even better.
And for the record, good or bad, removing the transmission, transfer case and such from my truck caused my engine to sag, like 4 inches. who knows what the condition of the motor mounts were. So i jammed a 4x4 between the floor jack and the edge of the block and supported it. Easy fix. |
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#19 |
Special Order
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mt Airy, MD
Posts: 85,859
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
I always support the back of the engine. I'm not a mechanic, I've just worked on my own stuff all my life. I'm more of a 'thorough' kind of guy when I can be. It bugs me when all the weight just hangs there
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"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~ |
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#20 | |
State of Confusion!
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Gulfport, MS USA
Posts: 46,844
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
Quote:
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__________________
Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God! |
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#21 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Diego California
Posts: 1,316
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Re: Supporting engine when removing trans
I have used the jack method because it is quick and easy for removal but typically hydraulic jacks will droop after a while and unless you are removing and replacing the same day, best to have a jack stand or some other device that will not sag while you are sleeping and you wake up to find ripped motor mounts.
Remember the ratchet strap method will work on either side of the engine motor mount. Think of the motor mount like the fulcrum on a teeter totter. if the rear of the engine is will sag with no transmission support then the front of the engine will lift. A ratchet strap at the back of the engine will need to be under the pan or flywheel. But if that is getting in the way of transmission install, then a ratchet strap in front of the engine mounts pulling down will also accomplish the same task of balancing the engine. It goes without saying (or maybe not) don't cheap out on the ratchet straps. buy yourself a good quality strap that is not going to let go on you during the process. Having a strap or chain does give you the ability to move your truck around the garage if the rebuild process takes more time than you were expecting.
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I'd rather attempt something great and fail.. than try something ordinary and succeed. Norman Vincent Peale Project: Barn Raising http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=414961 Project: 30 Be Low https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=830583 |
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