Does anyone here run Sanderson BB8 headers on their big block trucks?

[ts71281]

I am interested in buying another set of headers for my '70 C10 with a 468. The current supertech headers are junk and are coming out with a sawzall.

I want to know how much clearance the BB8's have around everything, and if they're going to rattle on any suspension parts/frame/motor mounts/etc.

I have a 4 speed in my truck so I need to keep in mind that the #7 primary needs to be enough forward I can run the block mounted ballstud from the block to the frame without the headers hitting. Does anyone have pictures of the BB8's or other sanderson headers installed?

Thanks,

Joe

[ts71281]

Can someone help me with this? I'm still in the market and I want to get back behind the wheel of my c10

[jeh]

Just installed mine this weekend. They are Sanderson BB8

[jeh]

Here's another pic, I did have to grind a little "half moon" in the right frame rail for a little extra tube clearance. I also have Performance Online motor mounts, not sure if you have factory BB mounts but that might make a difference.

[4oldcars]

My experiance with Sanderson was on a big block. Six months after install a weld broke. I contacted Sanderson and they said so what. They won't get any more of my money.

[ts71281]

Jason, thanks for the pictures. I do have the correct 1970 big block engine towers (perches) and proper motor mounts. I also am running a 4 speed m-20 munice in the truck, so I need to utilize the stock clutch Z-bar location. The problem I'm concerned about is getting the Z-bar to attach to the block without hitting the #7 primary on the cylinder head. I'm running a stock smallblock ball stud which even offsets z-bar back a bit. I do have an original 1970 big block TRUCK ballstud that I would like to mount. It would bring the z-bar perfectly perpendicular as it should, but headers are a concern. I don't want the z-bar rubbing on the primary or soaking in all that heat. Any pictures you could get of your sandersons back where the zbar bracket is would be extremely helpful. A nice bright flash would be a plus.

[jeh]

Originally Posted by 4oldcars

My experiance with Sanderson was on a big block. Six months after install a weld broke. I contacted Sanderson and they said so what. They won't get any more of my money.

What weld broke???

Originally Posted by ts71281

Jason, thanks for the pictures. I do have the correct 1970 big block engine towers (perches) and proper motor mounts. I also am running a 4 speed m-20 munice in the truck, so I need to utilize the stock clutch Z-bar location. The problem I'm concerned about is getting the Z-bar to attach to the block without hitting the #7 primary on the cylinder head. I'm running a stock smallblock ball stud which even offsets z-bar back a bit. I do have an original 1970 big block TRUCK ballstud that I would like to mount. It would bring the z-bar perfectly perpendicular as it should, but headers are a concern. I don't want the z-bar rubbing on the primary or soaking in all that heat. Any pictures you could get of your sandersons back where the zbar bracket is would be extremely helpful. A nice bright flash would be a plus.

I can take some more pics when I get home from work next week. Sorry about the dark pics, I only had one side of the garage lights on.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by ts71281

I am interested in buying another set of headers for my '70 C10 with a 468. The current supertech headers are junk and are coming out with a sawzall.

I want to know how much clearance the BB8's have around everything, and if they're going to rattle on any suspension parts/frame/motor mounts/etc.

I have a 4 speed in my truck so I need to keep in mind that the #7 primary needs to be enough forward I can run the block mounted ballstud from the block to the frame without the headers hitting. Does anyone have pictures of the BB8's or other sanderson headers installed?

Thanks,

Joe

Aye Aye, Captain! If this isn't a big block there's no such thing and those are Sanderson BB8 block huggers. When I was fitting up the exhaust I had to move the oil filter so I wouldn't have to remove the headers to change the filter. I had already mounted a remote filter so that wasn't much of a problem. As you can see, my truck has a turbo 400 automatic, not a stick. Getting the trans dust shield on takes some fiddling but it does fit.

[jeh]

Originally Posted by Fitz

Aye Aye, Captain! If this isn't a big block there's no such thing and those are Sanderson BB8 block huggers. When I was fitting up the exhaust I had to move the oil filter so I wouldn't have to remove the headers to change the filter. I had already mounted a remote filter so that wasn't much of a problem. As you can see, my truck has a turbo 400 automatic, not a stick. Getting the trans dust shield on takes some fiddling but it does fit.

You BB8's don't look like my BB8's......

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by jeh

You BB8's don't look like my BB8's......

I bought those in 2004 when I started building the truck. They were the second set Sanderson made for the 502/572 heads on a 10.4 inch tall deck block (Stacey David got the first ones for Copperhead). I understand they re-routed tubes on the short deck headers but I have not seen them.

[eightbanger]

Originally Posted by jeh

Here's another pic, I did have to grind a little "half moon" in the right frame rail for a little extra tube clearance. I also have Performance Online motor mounts, not sure if you have factory BB mounts but that might make a difference.

Jeh, did you have any clearence issues with your oil filter, and can you remove it with the headers in place?

[jeh]

Originally Posted by eightbanger

Jeh, did you have any clearence issues with your oil filter, and can you remove it with the headers in place?

Sorry for the late reply, yes I can remove the oil filter with the headers in place. I've been driving the truck some this summer and so far so good with the headers.

[eightbanger]

No worries Jeh,.i bought a set and i'm very happy with the fit, I needed to trim about 1" off the corner of the tranny bell housing on the PS for the collector flange to clear.
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