How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 - Page 36 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

gringoloco · 09-08-2012, 08:25 PM

Squirted some color on a few small parts today--really liking this VHT epoxy satin black. It has the perfect sheen and lays out really nicely. The control arms and rear disc brackets will head to the powder coater next week...

XxCHEVYMANxX · 09-09-2012, 09:03 AM

Nice parts ! and painted pieces are lookin good too. Vht is a good product, I use it and duplicolor as well. keep up the good work !

mcbassin · 09-09-2012, 09:32 AM

More nice parts. The paint looks good.
Posted via Mobile Device

widewhite70 · 09-09-2012, 10:05 AM

Looking good! I like to see the Porterbuilt parts! My next build will have some for sure

gringoloco · 09-09-2012, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XxCHEVYMANxX

Nice parts ! and painted pieces are lookin good too. Vht is a good product, I use it and duplicolor as well. keep up the good work !

Thanks! I've had good luck with their wrinkle finish, too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcbassin

More nice parts. The paint looks good.
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks- chipping away at it...

Quote:

Originally Posted by widewhite70

Looking good! I like to see the Porterbuilt parts! My next build will have some for sure

Thanks! I don't think yours is lacking in the handling dept. They are nice looking pieces- hopefully work as good as they look

Posted via Mobile Device

gringoloco · 09-09-2012, 09:14 PM

Pulled the 'bags and installed the ECE 6" drop rear coils. Man, this thing is L-O-W...

The coils slipped right in like they belonged there and in conjunction with my 1.5" blocks give me 7.5" of rear drop, which is about 1.5 lower than where I had the airbags set before for the 'just right' rake. Not sure what the plan of attack is at this point, as I kinda like the lowered look, but would have to re-work shock mounts, bumpstops, and maybe exhaust to get it right--not to mention the work involved in getting the front down another inch to match

The ride is different--definitely feel more of the road than with 'bags, but not necessarily in a bad way, except when I hit a larger bump and it bangs the bumpstops. If it stays at this height, I'll fix that so it won't be a factor...

gringoloco · 09-09-2012, 09:29 PM

Here's before and after measurements of the rear wheel arch, as well a side view showing just how re-donk-u-lous it looks with the a$$ dragging the ground. I am NOT a fan of the 'cali-lean'. Also note how off-center the front wheels are--the PB arms should remedy most of this. I think I will wait until after I complete the trailing arm 'flip' before I plan any other drastic changes out back, as I'm pretty sure that mod will raise the rear an inch or so...

Lolyin58 · 09-09-2012, 09:52 PM

Truck looks really good. Should be fun to drive!
Posted via Mobile Device

Bennett68C10 · 09-09-2012, 10:23 PM

I love the way the rear looks, I would leave it like that and get the front down a little lower. What spring are you running in the front, maybe try a 3" lowering spring if your able too
Posted via Mobile Device

Xeen · 09-10-2012, 12:27 AM

You could just remove the 1.5" rear lowering blocks and see how you like it.

Pick · 09-10-2012, 05:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xeen

You could just remove the 1.5" rear lowering blocks and see how you like it.

Or just machine the blocks to the height you need to fine tune the rear drop and achieve the "right" rake you're looking for.

XxCHEVYMANxX · 09-10-2012, 05:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bennett--G4L

I love the way the rear looks, I would leave it like that and get the front down a little lower. What spring are you running in the front, maybe try a 3" lowering spring if your able too
Posted via Mobile Device

I agree, bring the front down and your there.

darkhorse970 · 09-10-2012, 06:02 AM

I like it! With a little fine tuning I have no doubt that you will get it where you want it.

BTW, I'm adding the sway bar to my '63 this week so I will give you some "feedback" on the handling improvements.

SCOTI · 09-10-2012, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xeen

You could just remove the 1.5" rear lowering blocks and see how you like it.

He would still have to re-work the shock mounts as the blocks help w/shock travel. It will be interesting to see where the height winds up after the relocating of the front T/A pivot.

gringoloco · 09-10-2012, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lolyin58

Truck looks really good. Should be fun to drive!
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks- I sure hope so after all of this

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bennett--G4L

I love the way the rear looks, I would leave it like that and get the front down a little lower. What spring are you running in the front, maybe try a 3" lowering spring if your able too
Posted via Mobile Device

Front is currently a 1" drop Belltech trimmed to about 2" drop. If I do anything, I'd probably section the crossmember to bring it down and keep my ground clearance. This was supposed to be a simple project, though

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xeen

You could just remove the 1.5" rear lowering blocks and see how you like it.

Thought about that, but will probably wait 'til after the t-arm 'flip'

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pick

Or just machine the blocks to the height you need to fine tune the rear drop and achieve the "right" rake you're looking for.

Likely will end up doing this following the flip

Quote:

Originally Posted by XxCHEVYMANxX

I agree, bring the front down and your there.

Part of me agrees, but the other part doesn't wanna deal with all of the custom fab required to get there...

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkhorse970

I like it! With a little fine tuning I have no doubt that you will get it where you want it.

BTW, I'm adding the sway bar to my '63 this week so I will give you some "feedback" on the handling improvements.

Cool, let me know what you think--I was amazed at the difference

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

He would still have to re-work the shock mounts as the blocks help w/shock travel. It will be interesting to see where the height winds up after the relocating of the front T/A pivot.

I agree- trying to minimize the amount of fab while still being super low is an exercise in futility. There's give/take while finding the balance. TA mount flip coming soon--I'll do it as a direct 1:1 comparison with no other changes, just for scientific purposes

Posted via Mobile Device

Zoomin · 09-10-2012, 02:24 PM

What's odd is that it looks like it's sitting level if you look at the top of the bed. Are your rims different diameters (too lazy to search)?

gringoloco · 09-10-2012, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zoomin

What's odd is that it looks like it's sitting level if you look at the top of the bed. Are your rims different diameters (too lazy to search)?

20" wheels all around, but with a slight tire rake; 28" front/29" rear...

gringoloco · 09-10-2012, 07:15 PM

Powder! Dropped off at lunch, picked up after work- how's that for service?!

darkhorse970 · 09-10-2012, 08:08 PM

That's outstanding service! Looks like very high quality coating too.
Posted via Mobile Device

chapster · 09-10-2012, 08:47 PM

Hey Gringoloco,

Nice build,

Quick question,
I thought I had this figured out the last time I talked to Nate in regards to the 1" forward arms. After reading your thread is it only the requirement of lower control arms to benefit the 1" forward? What is the difference on the uppers they sent you vs the uppers for a standard dropmember.

Thanks,
Chapster

gringoloco · 09-10-2012, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkhorse970

That's outstanding service! Looks like very high quality coating too.
Posted via Mobile Device

They generally do great work- I will have to chase some threads and probably clean up the ball joint pockets, which they're normally really good about, but I'm not complaining- I have taken a hammer to their powder before, and it just conforms to the dents- no flaking/chipping at all...

Quote:

Originally Posted by chapster

Hey Gringoloco,

Nice build,

Quick question,
I thought I had this figured out the last time I talked to Nate in regards to the 1" forward arms. After reading your thread is it only the requirement of lower control arms to benefit the 1" forward? What is the difference on the uppers they sent you vs the uppers for a standard dropmember.

Thanks,
Chapster

I will be running lowers only, which will give more caster and less 'centering'. The upper arms were sent to me by accident, and are being returned

My understanding is that there are forward uppers as well as standard uppers depending on what you're looking for. I was looking for cheap

Posted via Mobile Device

Bennett68C10 · 09-10-2012, 10:06 PM

Powdercoat looks awesome, should have done that to mine but I cheaped out and painted them.
Posted via Mobile Device

gringoloco · 09-10-2012, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bennett--G4L

Powdercoat looks awesome, should have done that to mine but I cheaped out and painted them.
Posted via Mobile Device

I thought about putting most of the parts in powder, but to save a few bucks, I only did the larger ones that required the durability.

Here's a dirty-hack p-shop of what I would be happy with for ride height up front to match the current rear. I think I'd be pretty close to the stock inners at this height, but I love the look...

chapster · 09-10-2012, 10:25 PM

I will be running lowers only, which will give more caster and less 'centering'. The upper arms were sent to me by accident, and are being returned

My understanding is that there are forward uppers as well as standard uppers depending on what you're looking for. I was looking for cheap

Posted via Mobile Device[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the clarification. That is what I understood from Nate but thought maybe I was missing something.

Cheers

aggie91 · 09-10-2012, 10:36 PM

Who did the powder coating? If you don't mind what did they. Charge for the control arms and brackets?
Posted via Mobile Device

09-08-2012, 08:25 PM	#876
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,921	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Squirted some color on a few small parts today--really liking this VHT epoxy satin black. It has the perfect sheen and lays out really nicely. The control arms and rear disc brackets will head to the powder coater next week... Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

09-09-2012, 09:03 AM	#877
XxCHEVYMANxX Registered User Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Decatur, IL. Posts: 628	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Nice parts ! and painted pieces are lookin good too. Vht is a good product, I use it and duplicolor as well. keep up the good work ! __________________ *John* Mild Custom 68' Work Truck Build Facebook LoL 1977 Trans Am (Project) 1965 Chevelle (Project)

09-09-2012, 09:32 AM	#878
mcbassin Still Learning Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Central Oklahoma Posts: 10,108	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 More nice parts. The paint looks good. Posted via Mobile Device __________________ Mike "69 Short Wide" My Project 86 Silverado Landen's Project Instagram: @mcbassin My Website C/10 Club Oklahoma Facebook Group

09-09-2012, 10:05 AM	#879
widewhite70 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Coshocton,Ohio Posts: 834	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Looking good! I like to see the Porterbuilt parts! My next build will have some for sure __________________ -Calvin http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=512270 my build, tube chassis and LS2 How I keep the truck shining, Detail thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=697902

09-09-2012, 09:14 PM	#881
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,921	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Pulled the 'bags and installed the ECE 6" drop rear coils. Man, this thing is L-O-W... The coils slipped right in like they belonged there and in conjunction with my 1.5" blocks give me 7.5" of rear drop, which is about 1.5 lower than where I had the airbags set before for the 'just right' rake. Not sure what the plan of attack is at this point, as I kinda like the lowered look, but would have to re-work shock mounts, bumpstops, and maybe exhaust to get it right--not to mention the work involved in getting the front down another inch to match The ride is different--definitely feel more of the road than with 'bags, but not necessarily in a bad way, except when I hit a larger bump and it bangs the bumpstops. If it stays at this height, I'll fix that so it won't be a factor... Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

09-09-2012, 09:29 PM	#882
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,921	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Here's before and after measurements of the rear wheel arch, as well a side view showing just how re-donk-u-lous it looks with the a$$ dragging the ground. I am NOT a fan of the 'cali-lean'. Also note how off-center the front wheels are--the PB arms should remedy most of this. I think I will wait until after I complete the trailing arm 'flip' before I plan any other drastic changes out back, as I'm pretty sure that mod will raise the rear an inch or so... Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy Last edited by gringoloco; 09-09-2012 at 09:36 PM.

09-09-2012, 09:52 PM	#883
Lolyin58 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Calgary,Alberta,Canada Posts: 372	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Truck looks really good. Should be fun to drive! Posted via Mobile Device

09-09-2012, 10:23 PM	#884
Bennett68C10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Toms River, NJ Posts: 5,518	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 I love the way the rear looks, I would leave it like that and get the front down a little lower. What spring are you running in the front, maybe try a 3" lowering spring if your able too Posted via Mobile Device __________________ Keith 66 Suburban Burb Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=751361 IG: bennett68c10

09-10-2012, 12:27 AM	#885
Xeen Registered User Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Topeka Kansas Posts: 2,655	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 You could just remove the 1.5" rear lowering blocks and see how you like it. __________________ Please call me Brian. Check out My 1972 SWB Fleetside 5.3L Vortec Restomod Build

09-10-2012, 06:02 AM	#888
darkhorse970 Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Monroe, LA Posts: 2,104	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 I like it! With a little fine tuning I have no doubt that you will get it where you want it. BTW, I'm adding the sway bar to my '63 this week so I will give you some "feedback" on the handling improvements. __________________ Keith SOLD - 1963 C10 Short Fleet 350/700R4 4/6 drop 1967 GMC Super Custom - Short Fleet COPO concept w/427 BBC T-400 w/Doug Nash overdrive 4/6 Drop, Buddy Buckets, etc... Frame Off (In Progress) I call it "Vulgar Display of Power" 1980 Silverado Original paint 49k Original miles 4/6 drop Check out my build thread here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post6209941

09-10-2012, 02:24 PM	#891
Zoomin Man of Mini-Talents Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Oklahoma City, OK Posts: 4,295	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 What's odd is that it looks like it's sitting level if you look at the top of the bed. Are your rims different diameters (too lazy to search)? __________________ Steve Project - Ruth 66 Skylark Project - Lola 60 Biscayne Project - Iron Ox 54 GMC 100 Project - Darth 69 Camaro

09-10-2012, 07:15 PM	#893
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,921	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Powder! Dropped off at lunch, picked up after work- how's that for service?! Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

09-10-2012, 08:08 PM	#894
darkhorse970 Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Monroe, LA Posts: 2,104	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 That's outstanding service! Looks like very high quality coating too. Posted via Mobile Device __________________ Keith SOLD - 1963 C10 Short Fleet 350/700R4 4/6 drop 1967 GMC Super Custom - Short Fleet COPO concept w/427 BBC T-400 w/Doug Nash overdrive 4/6 Drop, Buddy Buckets, etc... Frame Off (In Progress) I call it "Vulgar Display of Power" 1980 Silverado Original paint 49k Original miles 4/6 drop Check out my build thread here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post6209941

09-10-2012, 08:47 PM	#895
chapster Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: .. Posts: 455	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Hey Gringoloco, Nice build, Quick question, I thought I had this figured out the last time I talked to Nate in regards to the 1" forward arms. After reading your thread is it only the requirement of lower control arms to benefit the 1" forward? What is the difference on the uppers they sent you vs the uppers for a standard dropmember. Thanks, Chapster __________________ 1967 GMC shorty Parts Pile: NoLimit, Accu Air, Kore 3, Matts Classic Bowtie, March Performance, Lokar, ScottsHot Rods, Vintage Air, American Auto Wire, Circle D, Accu Air, Borla, Budnik, Ididit, One Piece Windows, Doug Thorley, Pypes, AutoLoc, Porterbuilt, CPP, Dynamat, Dakota Digital, Fesler 1968 Chevy c10 shorty Stepper (Patina LS project) 1967 gmc custom Long Box (Farm Truck Project)

09-10-2012, 10:06 PM	#897
Bennett68C10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Toms River, NJ Posts: 5,518	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Powdercoat looks awesome, should have done that to mine but I cheaped out and painted them. Posted via Mobile Device __________________ Keith 66 Suburban Burb Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=751361 IG: bennett68c10



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09-10-2012, 10:25 PM	#899
chapster Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: .. Posts: 455	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 I will be running lowers only, which will give more caster and less 'centering'. The upper arms were sent to me by accident, and are being returned My understanding is that there are forward uppers as well as standard uppers depending on what you're looking for. I was looking for cheap Posted via Mobile Device[/QUOTE] Thanks for the clarification. That is what I understood from Nate but thought maybe I was missing something. Cheers __________________ 1967 GMC shorty Parts Pile: NoLimit, Accu Air, Kore 3, Matts Classic Bowtie, March Performance, Lokar, ScottsHot Rods, Vintage Air, American Auto Wire, Circle D, Accu Air, Borla, Budnik, Ididit, One Piece Windows, Doug Thorley, Pypes, AutoLoc, Porterbuilt, CPP, Dynamat, Dakota Digital, Fesler 1968 Chevy c10 shorty Stepper (Patina LS project) 1967 gmc custom Long Box (Farm Truck Project)

09-10-2012, 10:36 PM	#900
aggie91 I'm just glad to be here! Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Longview, TX Posts: 4,788	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Who did the powder coating? If you don't mind what did they. Charge for the control arms and brackets? Posted via Mobile Device __________________ Karl 1965 Chevy Stepside(Grandpa's Old Blue) and (July 2015 Shop Build!)(2020, the Saga Continues) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=372424 The LST Challenge: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post7812257 Korbin's 1st Square: "Sunburn" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=418618 1985 GMC Sierra: "White Trash", Korbin's 2nd now... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=632305 Henry - 1984 Chevrolet, Owen's 1st Square

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